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Monday, March 29, 2021

Montreal Accessory Designer Linsey Myriam Bain on the Beauty of Going Slow

With over ten years of experience creating bags for a variety of mass market brands, Montreal-based creative Linsey Myriam Bain decided to forge her own path forward with the launch of her eponymous label in 2019. She learned a lot during her tenure as an accessory expert, traveling to factories and gaining insight into consumer expectations; and she’s channeled this knowledge into the creation of unisex pieces that suit all needs and are made with intention.

“I’ve been in the industry for so long,” she says, noting that she started by working in various retail roles, which afforded her the ability to “understand how people relate to product.” While studying fashion design in post-secondary school (she studied art history before that), she also modelled briefly. But in addition to the historically problematic expectations within that aspect of the industry — “At one point, I didn’t know if I was skinny or not,” she recalls — she says the randomness of client meetings didn’t “align with my studies. [And] I saw a greater future for myself with design.”

This epiphany has been to our benefit. Bain’s bags are made in small quantities with fabrics sourced from Canadian suppliers, and feature organic and overstock materials. “I want to make sure that I keep a very small supply chain,” she notes, and says that moving forward she’d love to craft her pieces on-demand as her customer base expands. She’s also tapped into the exciting potential of new textiles, saying that she “would like to work with cactus leather [in the future]. It’s about growing and improving with every collection. I want to make good products that people like, and enjoy doing it.”

bain montreal
Photography by Kyle Jeffers

Given her expertise in the fashion industry, Bain identifies a core issue with sustainable design — it’s affordability — as a point that needs continual addressing and improvement by not only independent makers like herself, but the large-scale businesses that reach consumers at a mass level. “I’m thankful for Stella McCartney, but how many people can actually get clothing that’s made ethically, from the way people are treated to the waste at the factory and [creation of] excess product? How do we make sure that the big retailers — that we still need because there are people who need to shop for inexpensive products — are becoming sustainable?”

In addition to her thoughtful approach for making bags, Bain has committed to locally producing the non-medical face masks her brand began offering last Spring; a new mask drop will come later this week, boasting new colours like khaki and chocolate brown. “The masks were a natural addition,” she says, going on to reveal that making them also gave her the opportunity to be productive and proactive at a time when pushing product didn’t seem altogether important.

bain montreal
Photography by Mallory Lowe

“It was a saving grace. Bags that last, like mine, will always be in a certain price range and I didn’t feel comfortable coming out with new products at the time. It didn’t feel right. At least by making masks, I was doing something useful for me, and for everybody. And it allowed me to be creative.” She shot the initial array of masks in her loft-style living space with local photographer Mallory Lowe, using non-agency models and playing with wigs to emphasize the collection’s range of eye-catching hues. “It’s allowed me to work with people in my community,” she says. Give-back is crucial to her business, and Bain has donated product to organization raffles like that of the Black Theatre Workshop and provided a portion of proceeds from the brand’s sales to initiatives like Hoodstock, an activism-centric group with a seven-point mandate that includes support of the arts and social justice actions.

“There’s so much talent in Montreal, it’s almost ridiculous,” Bain laughs. And the city’s notoriously creative denizens are counted in her circle, including DJ KidCrayola and textile designer Damien Ajavon, who recently appeared on the brand’s feed modelling its bright blue nylon Flat tote — one of the five core styles Bain currently offers.

bain montreal
Photography courtesy of Bain

The assortment also includes a petit crossbody and backpack, as well as a pouch designed with three options for wearing (waist, crossbody or with an evening-style chain). “I’m most proud of this piece,” she says, adding that new styles will appear once she knows if she’s received any award or grant money that she’s applied for this season. “New bags are designed, but I have to see if anything comes from that before moving forward,” she notes.

But Bain has attuned her fan base to the idea that good things come to those who wait, and she’s determined to only augment this sensibility as her label increases in presence — just don’t expect to see more product because there’s more demand. “I would never do four collections in a year,” she says. “That’s one thing I’ve learned about the industry — the pace is too much. I started this brand to have a legacy; to have something that represents my values and my views.” And we’ll be watching for what comes next.

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Sunday, March 28, 2021

Sid Neigum and Anti Social Running Club Join Forces To Support Toronto Restaurants

Just about every industry has felt the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic and in Canada, one of the hardest hit has been food. On December 16, Restaurants Canada reported that since March 2020, 10,000 restaurants closed across Canada, while nearly 50 percent expect to permanently close if things don’t change. So, how to support Toronto restaurants while things remain locked down?

The fashion industry, too, has taken a toll, with many retailers closing, like Addition Elle, or facing bankruptcy, like Frank And Oak. For Toronto-based designer Sid Neigum, who cancelled his resort collection ahead of the fall, “it’s been rough.” But, he adds, “I’ve pivoted, as many restaurants have, by starting an online shop and selling direct-to-consumer. Now, this month, our revenue is higher for direct-to-consumer (D2C) than business-to-business (B2B), which is a first. It’s [about] rethinking how you have to work and adapt.”

Anti Social Running Club founder Michael Ng | Photography courtesy of Michael Ng

Neigum brought that sensibility to his second love — food — when Michael Ng, founder of Anti Social Running Club (ASRC), asked if he’d wanted to partner and co-host the first Dine & Dash Virtual Race in Toronto in support of local restaurants. The ASRC was founded during lockdown, and virtually connects runners on an app allowing everyone to check in on each other as they go, creating a socially-distanced network that encourages exercise at a time when many of us are spending most of our days indoors and at home.

Ng first orchestrated a Dine & Dash Virtual Race in Edmonton in February, which Neigum had taken part in from Toronto and loved, so he jumped at the chance for the two to work together and make a change.

“I wanted to reach out to Sid and see if he’d be interested in doing a Toronto edition after the success that we had in Edmonton,” says Ng. “Our biggest focus is to support local business, specifically in the restaurant industry. It’s been hit so hard during COVID, especially with no dine-in in Ontario yet. I really wanted to see if there was an opportunity for Toronto to do what we did and help in the way we know how.”

Photography courtesy of Dine & Dash Virtual Race

The race will take place from April 19 to 25. Registered runners can choose their distance — 10 km, half marathon or full marathon — and can run anywhere or any time within the timeframe, while using any type of tracking device or app. Afterwards, they can claim a meal at the participating restaurant of their choice from April 23 to 25. In other words, run your ass off and then reward it with some of the city’s best meals.

While there won’t be any winners in this race, dog-eat-dog types have the choice of submitting their times. Throughout the week, Ng and Neigum will update a leaderboard in hopes of satisfying their competitive streaks.

Photography courtesy of Dine & Dash Virtual Race

Registration is $55 for individuals, $110 for pairs, and includes a meal, a t-shirt (designed by Neigum, naturally), and entry into the race. Those outside of the city can also run, though a donation will be made to a local food bank in lieu of the meal.

Those restaurants participating in the event are a diverse bunch that could satisfy any appetite, and include 416 Snack Bar, Donna’s, Le Phenix, Hello 123, Imanishi, Tutti Matti and Alma, with one more yet to be confirmed.

“It’s all really delicious food that would be great to eat after a marathon,” concludes Neigum, while Ng adds with a laugh, “Food is why I run. Guilt-free meals after running for a few hours? Sign me up.”

Sign us up, too.

Registration begins on March 29 and closes on April 18. Click here for more details. 

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Saturday, March 27, 2021

A New, Lightweight Fenty Beauty Skin Tint + More Beauty News This Week

Sol de Janeiro launches Bom Dia Bright Cream, just in time for spring

 

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Sol de Janeiro, the brand behind the cult favourite Brazilian Bum Bum Cream and its highly addictive scent (a combo of vanilla, pistachio and salted caramel), has just launched a new addition to its lineup — and a new scent. Meet Bom Dia Bright Cream. Bom Dia, which means “good day” in Portuguese, launched earlier this week and is a deeply nourishing body cream that also gently exfoliates skin with natural fruit AHAs and provides a brightening boost thanks to the addition of vitamin C. The best part? Dom Dia bright Cream also introduces a new scent to the Sol de Janeiro family: Cheirosa ‘40. A blend of gourmand notes like crushed black amber plum, sweet creme de cassis, warm vanilla woods and fresh jasmine blooms, this fresh yet sultry fragrance is perfect for spring.

Dermalogica’s new PowerBright Dark Spot Serum is here to fade dark spots — fast


Dark spots and hyperpigmentation are common skin concerns and can be caused by anything from UV exposure to skin injury, hormone changes, pollution and even breakouts. But just because dark spots are normal doesn’t mean you can’t treat them. Enter: Dermalogica’s latest launch, PowerBright Dark Spot Serum. Formulated with high-tech ingredients including niacinamide and hexylresorcinol, the serum promises to fade the appearance of dark spots in just a few days (!!!) and continues working over time even out and smooth skin tone.

The new Fenty Beauty Eaze Drop Blurring Skin Tint provides the lightweight coverage you’ve been looking for


If swapping your full-coverage foundation for a lightweight tinted moisturizer is part of your spring makeup bag overhaul, listen up: the new Fenty Beauty Eaze Drop Blurring Skin Tint has arrived just in time. The sheer-to-medium coverage tint is available in 25 flexible, buildable shades and instantly blurs your skin while providing hydration and a more even skin tone faster than you can say “no-makeup makeup.”

LASPA Naturals is now available at The Detox Market

 

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Canadian clean beauty brand LASPA Naturals has just launched at The Detox Market with a lineup that includes tinted foundation, sunscreens and an overnight glycolic acid treatment. “We are truly excited about this new partnership with The Detox Market as less than 2% of all products vigorously reviewed by their team are accepted for their store. LASPA’s philosophy is to formulate the cleanest products possible made from natural and organic sources — which means better for your health and better for the environment,” says Susan Mey, president and founder of LASPA Naturals.

Kōki is the newest global face of Estée Lauder


Estée Lauder recently announced Japanese model and songwriter, Kōki, as the new global face of the powerhouse brand. Kōki is the brand’s first Japanese Global Spokesmodel and she will be featured in print, digital and in-store campaigns, starting in Asia this month. By Fall 2021, she will appear in global digital campaigns for the brand’s makeup and skincare launch campaigns. Kōki brings a fresh energy to the Estée Lauder brand,” said Stéphane de La Faverie, Estée Lauder Global Brand President. “We are excited to amplify her rising star power to connect our brand with a new generation of consumers in Japan and around the world, while continuing the brand’s legacy of celebrating women across all backgrounds, ages and ethnicities.”

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Goop and Mejuri Partner on a Major Collaboration + More Fashion News You May Have Missed

The Goop and Mejuri collaboration is here

goop x mejuri collaboration campaign
Photography courtesy of Goop x Mejuri

Goop and Mejuri have launched a collaboration of handmade, ethically sourced jewellery. The four-piece collection launched earlier this week and is available exclusively online at mejuri.com, goop.com and a selection of Goop retail locations. The collection is comprised of pavé diamond hoops, a pavé diamond ring, woven hoops and a chain necklace. The elevated staples will mix perfectly into existing ear parties and ring stacks.

Altuzarra launches sustainable knitwear

altuzarra re-crafted red
Photography courtesy of Altuzarra

Altuzarra has announced a new product offering made from upcycled materials. The one-of-a-kind chunky knits are made using pieces from past and archival collections. The fabric recovered from these collection are recut and woven together to give the pieces a fashionable new life.

Tommy Hilfiger’s Spring 2021 adaptive collection is here

Tommy Hilfiger Adaptive
Photography courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger

The latest campaign for Tommy Hilfiger Adaptive has been released and it stars a diverse cast, including Olympic cyclist Kristina Vogel and Paralympian Rheed McCraken. Tommy Hilfiger first launched its adaptive collection in 2017, with the line delivering the brand’s preppy style to a range of abilities with modified fit, enhanced mobility, easy closures, seat-wear solutions and accommodations for prosthetics. According to Tommy Hilfiger, “Getting dressed should be a joy — an experience that empowers you to look good and feel good in what you are wearing. Our adaptive collections have revolutionized everyday dressing for people with disabilitiesgiving them the independence and confidence to express their individuality through style.” The Spring 2021 collection is available online at tommy.com.

Boss and Russell Athletic collaborate on a collection

Boss x Russell Athletci
Photography courtesy of Boss

Go ahead and get comfortable in the new collection from Boss x Russell Athletic. The relaxed unisex capsule launched this week with a star studded video featuring the likes of Ashley Graham, Bella Hadid, Precious Lee, Lucky Blue Smith and Keith Powers. With a mix of retro-inspired athletic styles and classic tailoring, this collection checks all the boxes for the ideal WFH OOTD.

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Friday, March 26, 2021

Euphoria Star Hunter Schafer on the Joy of Playing With Makeup

After experiencing a kiss of the limelight while gracing runways for the likes of Christian Dior, Helmut Lang and Marc Jacobs, model Hunter Schafer enamoured audiences in 2019 with her first-ever acting role portraying trans teenager Jules Vaughn on HBO’s Euphoria. The highly stylized hit drama about youth culture has captured the zeitgeist of Gen Z onscreen.

From museum-worthy eyeliner looks to celestial washes of glitter, whimsical technicoloured makeup has been Schafer’s character’s calling card since episode one — a maximalist approach that has effortlessly extended to Schafer’s own offstage presence. On red carpets, the 22-year-old, who is also trans, has stunned in an array of avant-garde beauty moments that range from splashes of iridescent pearls on her face and hands to vivid blocks of eyeshadow.

This free and wild approach stems in part from Schafer’s passion for visual art (she graduated from the University of North Carolina School of the Arts’s high-school program in 2017 and regularly shares excerpts from her sketchbook with her more than 2.9 million Instagram followers) and has caught the attention of Japanese cosmetics giant Shiseido. Here, Schafer talks about her playful relationship with makeup, boundary-pushing beauty lessons from Euphoria and inspiring icons.

On her go-to tools

I really love playing with eyeliner. I think liner comes the most naturally to me since my own art process is drawing with a pen in my sketchbook. I really enjoy trying to come up with different shapes or just applying a whole picture or symbol on my face. I also have fun with colourful mascara.

On her journey with makeup

It really started behind closed doors: doing makeup for myself just to see how it felt and experimenting with what I liked on my face. I also moved through a stage of wanting to look a certain kind of “pretty.” Then I was like, “No, F that. I want to look like a painting.” By the time graduated from high school, I’d found a place in makeup where I was starting to let myself have fun with shapes and colours and whatnot. Now, in the same way that I approach making art for myself, makeup has become something really experimental for me.

 

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On who inspires her beauty looks

A lot of the time, it’s my friends and musicians. Singer Kelsey Lu has always been a big makeup inspiration for me. I found out about her in high school and just loved the way she presented herself — from fashion to makeup to everything. Tilda Swinton and designer Gogo Graham are big vibes for me as well.

On the makeup lessons she’s learned from Euphoria

The show is known for incorporating rhinestones into looks, and I’ve even been doing that by creating a fake bridge piercing, which has been fun because I can’t get the real thing, but I can half-commit by gluing pieces on.

On the importance of letting her skin show through her makeup

I’ve gotten into the habit of making sure I have a good canvas with foundation to explore makeup looks on. It’s really important to me that my skin shows through and that I don’t feel like I’m covering myself up.

On experimenting with makeup during quarantine

On nights when I missed going out during quarantine, I’d get dressed up and do a makeup look. When the pressure of being perceived by other people is removed, the makeup experience becomes more fun because it really is just for you.

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Age-Positive Style Pioneer Alyson Walsh Wants You to Embrace Mid-Life (and Beyond)

Alyson Walsh launched the website That’s Not My Age in 2008, and has since built the style-centric site into a platform that boasts a shoppable component, as well as a podcast. Here, the journalist, author and age-positivity advocate tells us more about her fashion influences, wardrobe favourites, and why it’s never to late to express yourself through dressing.

What’s your earliest style memory?

As a teenager, I was into music rather than fashion. It was all very DIY in the 1970s and often unintentionally shoddy. I wore a lot of second-hand clothes and army surplus pieces. I was still at school when punk exploded and a bit too young — and uncool — to get fully behind the movement, but it was a huge influence. My younger brother and I used to buy NME New Musical Express every week, and I’ve always been a bit of a tomboy so a lot of my icons were men. I was into bands like The Clash and Joy Division, and the women I admired were Debbie Harry and Patti Smith — artists who appreciated the importance of image and aesthetics as well as music.

Describe your approach to dressing.

My aim when I’m getting dressed is to be effortless and faff-free — to put clothes on and then forget about them. So, flat shoes, stompy boots or sneakers are a non-negotiable. My signature look is grown-up tomboy or elegant gentlewoman. Most of the time, I’m pretty pared-down — in minimal menswear-inspired clothes — but then I’ll add a touch of casual glamour with a rakish scarf or vintage leopard-print coat. It’s always good to throw a little Keith Richards into the mix.

Patti Smith, one of Walsh’s early style influences. Photography by Patrick McMullan/Getty

What motivates your work?

Fashion gets a bad rap, but it can help people feel really good about themselves. I know it’s more complex than that, but just think about how you feel when you’re wearing a sharp jacket or favourite dress — when clothes are on your side. As a fashion journalist, I want to offer helpful advice, to provide style inspiration and, most of all, to empower women. When I started That’s Not My Age over 12 years ago, I wanted to see more diversity — more older women I could relate to — and to call out the ageism and sexism that sadly still exists today. I wanted to celebrate mid-life and beyond — to show that beauty can be many things and is not just associated with the young.

Describe your ideal day.

On a beach with Mr. That’s Not My Age and a good book — somewhere warm and sunny where I can swim in the sea. It’s been a long year locked down in London!

What’s one fashion item you think everyone should have in their closet?

A jumpsuit. I’ve got seven — in different fabric weights and with varying degrees of slouchiness — that have seen a lot of action this year. There’s a proper workwear version from French brand Vetra that I call the “Industrial Onesie” and then a supersized khaki version from Bliss and Mischief that I call the “Military Onesie.” People tend to be put off by the fear of toilet trouble, but I consider the time and effort saved getting dressed in the morning as a trade-off for the extra time it takes to go to the loo. The boiler-suit balance. Makes sense, no?

For style inspiration, check out Walsh’s wardrobe staples:

Anu Raina scarf, $160. Universal Standard jumpsuit, $235. Maguire boots, $300.

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British Fashion Designer Zandra Rhodes on Her Love of Colour and All Things Pink

British textile and fashion designer Zandra Rhodes is celebrated for her artistic prints, electric hues and floating chiffon designs that span her career of over 50 years, and her name is etched in fashion history. The same could very well be said about her neon-pink bob and rainbow-hued makeup — two longtime signatures that make her immediately recognizable and mirror the vibrancy of her fantastical collections.

“Pink is a very happy colour,” Rhodes says about her trademark hair shade over Zoom, her computer screen offering a glimpse inside her hot-pink London apartment. It’s located above the bright orange and (yes, you guessed it) pink Fashion and Textile Museum, which she founded in 2003. The vivid paintings, ceramics and furnishings that surround her are proof that her personal lifestyle is as glamorous and extroverted as her designs.

Rhodes says that she has been rocking fuchsia tresses since the ’80s and maintains the look by using Crazy Color Semi-Permanent Hair Color Cream in “Pinkissimo” every two weeks. Recalling one point in her hair history, she mentions a flirtation with dyeing her hair and experimenting with “things like green streaks and feathers stuck on the ends with eyelash glue.”

As for her makeup, you can always count on seeing Rhodes with thick black liner accentuated by generous sweeps of blue eyeshadow on her eyes and “a bit of rouge” on her cheeks. Where she’ll leave herself some room to play is with her lips — “I tend to mainly wear pink,” she notes about her bold lipstick shades — and eyebrows. “I’ve had wiggle lines, dots and dashes, she says of her evolving brow game. “At the moment, I just draw them on with a brown pencil.”

One of British fashion’s most-loved characters, Rhodes started her career in textiles by selling her vivacious prints directly to designers. But after struggling to get orders and being told that her work was too extreme, she decided to set up her eponymous label in 1969. “I was creating stars, explosions and lipsticks and designers wanted something else that wasn’t me,” she explains. “I felt I had something different to add to the world.”

She rose to fame in 1977 with the release of her Conceptual Chic collection, which introduced rebellious rips, safety pins and sink chains influenced by London’s street culture to the socialite set. The groundbreaking assortment earned Rhodes the nickname “Princess of Punk,” and over the next several years, she became one of the United Kingdom’s go-to celebrity designers, dressing the likes of Princess Diana, Freddie Mercury, Elizabeth Taylor and Diana Ross.

A major career highlight came in 2015, when she was named Dame Commander by Princess Anne. And true to her flamboyant style, Rhodes turned up at Buckingham Palace that day in a vibrant blue ensemble and a hat decorated with a rhinestone egg.

Today, at 80 years old, Rhodes isn’t showing any signs of slowing down, even in the face of the coronavirus pandemic and a cancer diagnosis last year during lockdown. (She’s now in remission.) On top of her other projects, like venturing into the world of home products for an upcoming collab with Ikea, she is the creative ambassador for a touring public art installation called Gratitude that aims to celebrate the front-line workers of the National Health Service (NHS), England’s publicly funded health-care system. Set to launch in Birmingham this summer, the project involves creatives from across the United Kingdom (Rhodes included) showcasing their talents in human-form sculptures that will later be auctioned, with the proceeds donated to the NHS.

As for something that has personally helped spark joy for Rhodes during the stress and uncertainty of the pandemic? “Makeup,” she immediately responds. “I never move around the house or go out without it. Makeup is self-expression. It makes me feel right for the world.”

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Thursday, March 25, 2021

Texture Talk: How to Revive Your Hair After Experimenting With DIYs During Quarantine

Whether you’ve used quarantine as an opportunity to dive head-first into self-care, or you’ve struggled to maintain a routines through the anxieties and uncertainties of this “unprecedented time,” one of the routines we all may have lost sight of this past year is natural haircare and maintenance. Without regular access to a salon, maintaining your curls and keeping your hair healthy can be stressful, to say the least. “The whole rhythm and routine was lost for so many people,” says Abisara Machold, a curly hair specialist who owns InHAIRitance Curl Spa in Montreal. While some of her clients have learned a lot about caring for their hair at home, others felt overwhelmed by the idea, she says, which can lead to neglect. Aisha Loobie, who owns Crown N’ Glory, a natural hair salon in Toronto, received an influx of messages from clients with questions about at-home haircare. “They’re experiencing a lot of shedding and breakage and they don’t know what to do,” says Loobie.

No matter what state your hair is in, it’s important to be kind to yourself and remember that with the right treatments, you can absolutely get your hair back to a healthy place. “It’s been a rough time, and we really need to have compassion and that love for ourselves, instead of beating ourselves up for it,” says Machold.

With that in mind, here are our experts’ tips on how to get your natural hair back in tip-top shape after any quarantine DIY hair mishaps this past year.

DIY trims

The number one question Loobie’s received during quarantine has been about DIY trims and cuts. Trimming your hair every three to four months is a vital part of textured haircare, to get rid of dead ends and encourage length retention. But doing it at home can be tricky. “A lot of people trimmed too much [off their hair] or it came out not very even,” says Machold. To avoid these mistakes, start with dry hair divided into small sections, and cut curl by curl. Cut no more than half-an-inch to an inch, feeling the hair as you go along. “You will actually feel where your hair needs a trim because it has little knots and the ends are rougher,” says Machold. “Slow and steady is key.” This process should take you at least an hour. If you have a tighter curl pattern, sectioning off your dry hair into small twists before trimming is the way to go, says Loobie. Lastly, make sure to use sharp shears meant for hair (no, the ones in your kitchen won’t do — the wrong scissors will cause your ends to split).

Protective styles left in for too long

Many people with natural hair turned to protective styles with added extensions during quarantine, but beware of leaving them in for too long. This is an all too common mistake, according to Machold and Loobie. Leaving these styles in for longer than the recommended six to eight weeks will leave your hair dehydrated, and your scalp prone to dandruff and itching. If you’re already at that point don’t fret — there are things you can do to reverse the damage. First, start by washing with a sulfate-free clarifying shampoo. If your scalp is particularly clogged, try an apple cider vinegar rinse by combining water and apple cider vinegar at a 1:1 ratio and applying it to your scalp. Make sure to follow the rinse with a hydrating shampoo and a deep conditioner. Then, to seal in scalp hydration, use your favourite natural oil or serum. Wash your hair every ten days to keep your scalp free of build-up and follow up with a moisturizing leave-in conditioner.

Colour damage

Whether you’re covering greys or experimenting with at-home bleaching kits, DIY colour can have devastating effects on curls. Loobie says naturals often see a drastic difference in their hair texture because overdone colour breaks down the elasticity inside the hair, which loosens your curl pattern and leaves your hair brittle. Machold and Loobie both advise against trying colour at home, but if the damage is already done, protein-rich treatments and masks are key to bringing life back to your curls, because they can help rebuild the bonds broken by hair dye chemicals like peroxide. With that being said, it’s important to proceed with caution. Too much protein can cause breakage, too, so incorporate these treatments into your routine no more than twice a month, a few times a year. When you’re not using them, turn to hydrating masks once a month. Carefully and thoroughly applying these treatments to your curls, strand by strand, makes all the difference, says Machold, so take your time. Stick to a hydrating shampoo in your colour repair routine and use a leave-in conditioner to lock in moisture after your treatments. Styles like two-strand twists are great for fragile colour-treated hair, helping to retain moisture and prevent further breakage.

Missed our last Texture Talk column? Click here.

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London-based Designer Rejina Pyo on Sustainability and Unisex Style

Since launching her line in 2014, London-based designer Rejina Pyo has become a favourite on the city’s fashion week calendar and a beloved presence in the wardrobes of the world’s savviest style mavens. We caught up with her for FASHION’s April issue to talk about how she became interested in design, her brand’s approach to sustainability, and the creatives who inspire her artful pieces.

What was your relationship with style growing up?

My mom was a fashion designer when she was in her 20s. She has a wonderful sense of style, and she took great joy in dressing me. We always had fabrics lying around the house; she’d make everything from curtains to my clothes, so the concept of making things was always around me. I asked her to teach me how to sew, and I made my first dress when I was 12. She had an old school sketchbook with drawings of Peter Pan collars and bell sleeves. I thought it was the most beautiful thing, and I would try to draw the same way she did. But she didn’t want me to pursue fashion, so she would hide the book. [Laughs] I was also inspired by television shows with traditional Korean clothing called ‘hanbok’; it’s very colourful and has lots of layers — it’s very interesting. Any time something like a period drama came on, nobody could change the channel because I was guarding the TV.

rejina pyo
Photography courtesy of Rejina Pyo

Tell us about the brand’s philosophy and its sustainability journey.

I’ve always felt bad about fashion being one of the most polluting industries, and that people don’t care about how a piece of clothing can be so cheap. It really bothers me. And there’s also been a trend of people buying things that they don’t actually wear many times, like buying things just to wear to go out at night. I felt like women didn’t have a lot of choice in terms of having nice clothes to wear to work — pieces that aren’t one-off, showy fashion, but that give the wearer a sense of enjoyment and comfort as they go about their daily routine. Expressing yourself is good, but if people have to suffer wearing it…I don’t think that’s right. And women have been objectified throughout history, so it’s the right time for us to now dress for ourselves and not for other people.

Whenever I’d start to feel very bad about all these things, I’d have conversations with my good friend, who’s now the brand’s managing director; she’s an expert in fashion sustainability. She’d say that I shouldn’t walk away, but be in this [industry] to make valuable changes.

You can’t do things overnight — it takes so long to research certifications for biodegradability, for example, or what a recycled fabric is actually made of. Now that sustainability is such a trend, some people will try to scam you. We have a pyramid metric for materials that we use, and each season we monitor the sustainability rating of fabrics so we have a practical goal instead of just saying, oh, let’s be sustainable.

We’ve also opted out of making huge sets for our fashion shows because we know those are thrown away straight after, and have rethought how we made invitations for [fashion week]. For Spring 2020, we used old library cards and had the show in a library to show off its beautiful architecture. And for our most recent show we opted out of sending physical invites and instead sent an e-vite.

Did you miss doing fashion week last year?

I didn’t miss it as much as I thought I would. It was nice to spend time with our team and talk about different ideas. You can’t really do that when you’re in the cycle of fashion week. A lot of things are last minute during that time, and you’re bound to be working until 1 or 2 a.m. That gives you excitement and hype, but now there’s a different approach. Since COVID, there’s been a conversation in the industry about how we can make things better — especially for the environment. That’s fresh and welcoming for me.

rejina pyo
Photography courtesy of Rejina Pyo

Why did you decide to create unisex garments?

I’ve always been interested in the life aspect of fashion. I was seeing people, including myself and the girls in my office, wearing men’s clothing, and it gave me an idea — why don’t we just share clothes? Retail buyers were confused about where to put these pieces in their stores because genders are separated, but I think we’ll get there in the end and I believe in the idea. It’s nice to have one piece of clothing that one day you can wear and the next day, your partner could wear it — you get more use out of it.

 

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Which artists have been most influential to you in terms of your designs?

I love fine art, and I often joke that when I retire at 65, I’ll be painting and making sculptures. I generally like very organic, abstract work from artists like Isamu Noguchi and Constantin Brancusi. But I’ve also discovered a lot of female artists like Georgia O’Keeffe and Angela de la Cruz. Angela explores the boundary between 2-D and 3-D and makes sculptural pieces out of canvas. They’re so beautiful. She had a stroke years ago, so she’s not able to do them herself now, but it’s so inspiring to see her working with her team to articulate her ideas. And Helen Frankenthaler’s colours are so beautiful…. It’s an endless list.

The post London-based Designer Rejina Pyo on Sustainability and Unisex Style appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Wednesday, March 24, 2021

Aurora James On the 15 Percent Pledge, Almost One Year Later

It’s been nearly a year since Aurora James, the Canadian-born creative director and founder of Brother Vellies and activist added another significant title to her resume — founder of the 15 Percent Pledge. Started in May 2020 “in direct response to the murders of George Floyd and Breonna Taylor” at the hands of law enforcement, James tells FASHION, the Pledge calls on major retailers to commit at least 15 percent of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses. In the intervening months, brands like Sephora, Gap Inc. and Moda Operandi, not to mention Canadian mega-brand Indigo, have all taken the Pledge.

 

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After working with Gap on their commitment to the Pledge, the New York-based multi-hyphenate appeared in the brand’s new Spring 2021 “Generation Good” campaign, described in a press release from the iconic American brand as “a collective of unique individuals taking action as forces for good.” James models alongside folks including anti-bullying activist Nandi Hildebrand, skateboarder Evan Mock and Ina Bhoopalam, a gender equality and climate justice activist. “Acting on the shared values of inclusion, diversity, sustainability and community, these groundbreakers are changing the paradigm, propelling a real shift in how we show up, represent, listen and learn across generations,” the release continues. “Through founding ideals and creative expression, Generation Good inspires the good in all of us, working together for a brighter future.”

We spoke to James about working with Gap on the 15 Percent Pledge as well as the spring campaign, how consumers can be more mindful about how they shop, and what she hopes for the future of the Pledge — and diversity, equity and inclusion in general.

Can you tell me about your journey with the 15 Percent Pledge — how does it feel nearly a year later?

When I started the Pledge last May, it was in direct response to the murders of George Floyd and Breonna Taylor. For the first time, it seemed like people were finally beginning to pay attention to how systemic racism impacts every aspect of this country. We saw corporations issuing countless statements of support with Black Lives Matter, and this was an opportunity to bring companies to the table and offer them viable solutions to invest in Black businesses tailored to their specific needs. In just one year, we now have 21 companies that have partnered with us to address the racial inequities that exist across industries — from retail, to magazines, to websites and even model management companies. While there have been challenges, the Pledge has created $4 billion dollars in value of pipeline opportunities for Black owned businesses across the country, and our momentum is only continuing to grow.

What has it been like working with Gap on the Generation Good campaign *and* solidifying their commitment to the pledge?

As the nation’s largest speciality apparel company, we were thrilled to partner with Gap Inc. to drive equity across retail. Of course, I was excited to work with them on Generation Good, but having them also take the Pledge and commit to increasing their pipeline programs by 15 percent created this alignment and synergy that was unique, and really speaks to how every partnership is different.

Tell me about the Gap spring campaign and how it speaks to inclusion and sustainability.

Participating in Generation Good was an incredible experience. The campaign touches on issues that I care deeply about — representation, inclusivity, equity and sustainability. These are values that the Pledge and Brother Vellies are rooted in, and it was exciting to see this alignment. In addition to being a Pledge partner, Generation Good further demonstrates Gap Inc.’s commitment to diversity and community.

Photography courtesy of Gap

What about shooting the campaign itself — how did it feel to do a creative, more normal “before pandemic” thing like a photo shoot while we’re still grappling with COVID?

As a fashion entrepreneur and creative, it was great to shoot the campaign with Gap Inc. It was a refreshing experience, and even while socially distanced and practicing COVID safety precautions, it was nice to have a creative outlet.

How do you think fashion brands should be approaching inclusion and representation in the current moment?

At the Pledge, we work collaboratively with our partners to find solutions that best fit their needs. Approaching Diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) efforts at a large retailer like Macy’s is going to look different than it will at smaller retailers or our other partners, which is why we say that taking the Pledge is not ‘one size fits all.’ Companies need to understand that a band-aid solution is not enough — we need them to dig deep and completely re-evaluate their business models. Inclusion and representation are the floor, not the ceiling, and so much work needs to happen internally for these corporations to address the years of systemic racism that has existed across these industries. At the Pledge, we work in tandem with our partners to ensure that they are not only working to best support the Black vendors they invest in, but are also deepening their DEI initiatives within their companies.

What advice do you have for consumers who want to shop more mindfully?

We encourage them to take our Consumer Commitment. Found on our website, the Consumer Commitment asks individuals to take stock of their monthly spending and reallocate 15 percent of their purchases to Black-owned businesses. Dismantling racial inequities requires more than one-time donations — we need everyone to stay involved even when #BlackLivesMatter is no longer trending on Twitter.

What do you hope to see regarding the 15 Percent Pledge in its second year?

As we head into our second year, we’re excited to dive deep into data collection to fully understand the monetary impact each partnership has had on Black businesses. Of course we hope to expand our list of Pledge takers and continue disrupting business as usual across these industries [as well].

Are there any Canadian partners you’re excited about working with, or are hoping will make the pledge?

Later last year, Indigo became the first Canadian retailer to take the Pledge. As a native Canadian, it was exciting to partner with Canada’s largest bookstore because it cannot be overstated how crucial it is for Black children to read books written by Black authors and to see themselves reflected in those stories. We are looking forward to building on this momentum and expanding our partnerships in Canada, hopefully in the coming months.

The post Aurora James On the 15 Percent Pledge, Almost One Year Later appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Celeb Facialist Joanna Czech on Her Needle-Free Approach to Halting Wrinkles

“I love and believe in fashion trends; I don’t believe in skincare trends,” states celebrity facialist Joanna Czech. “Messing up your skin because everybody else is putting golden sparkles or whatever on their face doesn’t work for me. I believe in science.”

Over her decades-long career as an aesthetician with an incredible zeal for human physiology, Czech, who splits her time between Dallas and New York, has earned herself a big-deal reputation in the skincare world and among countless boldface names. Her customized facial approach — combining state-of-the-art technologies like LED therapy, cryotherapy, ultrasound, microcurrent and radio frequency with her signature facial massage technique — is trusted by the likes of Penélope Cruz, Cate Blanchett and Anna Wintour and has become a requisite treatment before events and awards shows, from the Met Gala to the Golden Globes, to help de-puff, smooth and lift and give skin an immaculate glow.

When it comes to preserving a youthful-looking complexion, Czech says that her philosophy revolves around three main principles: “respect, support and protect” — especially surrounding skin cell energy and its vital role in the aging process.

It has been well documented that our skin relies on the daily regeneration of a whole host of different cells to keep itself in tip-top shape and maintain its protective barrier against rogue free radicals. In order to carry out this renewing function, explains Czech, each individual cell produces charged molecules known as ATPs (short for adenosine triphosphates), which, beyond cell turnover, also assist with collagen and elastin production, keeping skin naturally tight and firm. In other words, ATP energy is the gateway to putting our brightest, bounciest and plumpest face forward.

But as skin ages — a natural process that begins to rear its head by our late 20s, confirms Czech — levels of ATP decrease, which leads to a decline in overall cell function and sets the stage for fine lines, wrinkles, dullness — the list goes on. And with each new decade, ATP continues to plummet, causing deeper crevices and sagging to enter the equation. “I’m 57, and my cell energy is most likely about 50 percent less than that of someone half my age,” explains Czech. That’s why targeting ATP production is central to the skin guru’s in-demand facials. “For the past 20 years, speeding up cell energy has been my goal,” she says. “I use technologies like LED light with ultrasound because when they are combined, they stimulate ATP, among other things.” Skincare products that continue her skin-revitalizing handiwork post-treatment are also key. “When I can send clients home with something that’s going to continue to support the stimulation of ATP, that’s an ideal thing.”

One of Czech’s at-home recos is Dior’s new Capture Totale Super Potent Rich Creme. This luxe and firming facial moisturizer’s star ingredient is longoza flower extract, a resilient botanical proven to help supercharge skin cells and rev up cell turnover. What’s more, the moisturizer also harnesses the power of nourishing glycerine, strengthening peony blossom and plumping hyaluronic acid. “I don’t talk about skincare lines just for the heck of it,” she says. “Finding out about the science behind Dior’s energizing complex for cells was such an amazing discovery for me.” She adds that the silky formula is ideal for treating water-depleted, dehydrated skin — an all-too-common condition (no matter your skin type) that not only exaggerates dullness and wrinkles but can also further exacerbate the depletion of ATP cell energy.

And Czech can’t stress enough the importance of a thorough product application that incorporates below the jawline — a delicate area that’s especially prone to signs of aging due to a thinner skin barrier. “For me, your face starts with the nipples and ends with the hairline,” she announces. “What you do for your face, you should do for the neck and décolleté.

The post Celeb Facialist Joanna Czech on Her Needle-Free Approach to Halting Wrinkles appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Tuesday, March 23, 2021

Chrissy Teigen Has a Surprising New Business Venture—and Partner

Chrissy Teigen and Kris Jenner want to help keep your home clean.

The cookbook author and Kardashian-Jenner matriarch have teamed up for a new line of plant-powered cleaning and self-care products called Safely, People revealed yesterday. Starting at $6 USD, the collection includes a range of gentle products like glass cleaner, hand sanitizer, hand soap and a universal cleaner, all scented with natural aromatherapy oils. According to the brand’s Instagram, the minimalist green and white containers are meant to be reused thanks to refill kits that will also be available.

According to People, Teigen and Jenner have partnered with Emma Grede, the co-founder of Khloé Kardashian’s fashion line Good American, to launch the line.

 

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To announce their new project, the duo released a hilarious Insta video. “I want my own product line because, honestly, everyone has one already — I even have one,” Teigen quips. “But for my next thing, I want some help from the branding master herself, Kris Jenner.”

Jenner then speaks to the camera, saying: “I’m really excited to partner with Chrissy — I just hope her ideas aren’t really dumb.”

For the sake of comedy, Teigen arrives with a host of bad ideas — like “pre-chewed” spaghetti and son-in-law repellant — that Jenner rejects before they land on the concept for Safely. “We should create a line of super-effective cleaning products — plant-based — that are safe enough for the entire family,” Jenner explains. “And we can even use them to wash our hands.”

 

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As Teigen mentions in the video, this isn’t her first product line; she already has her own collection of cookware and tableware named after her cookbook, Cravings. (P.S. The popular home goods line just launched in Canada for the first time, available exclusively at The Bay.) But it is the first time she’s teaming up for a business project with anyone in the Kardashian-Jenner family, who she’s been a long-time friend of (she’s even BFFs with their go-to hairstylist, Jen Atkin!). According to Bustle, Teigen and Kim Kardashian met back in 2010 on a double date and have been pals ever since — Kim and Kris even appeared on Chrissy and husband John Legend’s 2018 holiday special, A Legendary Christmas with John and Chrissy.

Jenner, of course, has helped her children launch their own brands, like Kylie Cosmetics, and reportedly has filed trademarks for a beauty line of her own, though she hasn’t officially announced any plans.

Safely launches online on March 25. There’s no word yet on if the products will ship to Canada, but we’ll update this post with the latest news.

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