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Monday, October 11, 2021

HBO’s We’re Here S2: Shangela, Eureka and Bob Came to Slay

Move over, Batmobile. HBO’s We’re Here — the drag documentary-meets-makeover series starring Shangela Laquifa Wadley, Eureka O’Hara and Bob the Drag Queen — might possibly feature the most fabulous forms of transportation ever created. In the opening scene of season one (which premiered in 2020) and season two (to be untucked today), the world was introduced to three of the campiest trucks to ever grace the small screen: a fuschia-bowed set of wheels, a mobile-enlarged elephant and a literal “purse first” vehicle.

 

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“I don’t want to ruin it for you, but I actually never drove the [purse] truck myself,” shares Bob over video chat. “When we did season one, I didn’t even have a driver’s license, so I legally could not drive that truck.”

As the drag-mobiles are captured driving through American suburban streets in the opening minutes of the new season, it’s immediately apparent how accurately this scene represents the entire series. For those unfamiliar (or those without an HBO subscription), We’re Here is a six-part show that follows three of the most exuberant exports of RuPaul’s Drag Race as they travel across the U.S. and adopt various small-town residents with a connection to the LGBTQ2S+ community as drag children. Each episode starts with the hosts — all decked out in their finery, hence the need for trucks with space to haul it all — sissying that walk through the main stretch of the community, culminating in a fabulous lip sync performance (because, of course!). Along the way, expect to cry and not just a few tears, we’re talking ugly sobs — as the tragic backstories of the makeover-ees take centre stage.

“I tell people all the time when they say, ‘Oh my God, I cried,’ I’m like, ‘You cried? It wasn’t just a one-hour event — I was there for ten days! I was crying every day for ten days,'” Bob reveals.

We're Here Season two
“We’re Here” Season One. Photography courtesy of HBO

Shangela also admits the experience is even more emotional than what’s presented on TV. “We’ve been with our drag kids since day one, and they’re sometimes a little apprehensive and cautious. And then you see them work so hard, not only on themselves but [also] putting together this number, so that when the final note hits at the end of the song, you’re like, this is almost a different person than seven days ago. But it’s not — it’s a free person, and it’s so beautiful.”

After spending 15 minutes with each queen on video chat, it’s slightly alarming how quickly one can feel safe to bare their soul. Effortlessly enthusiastic, warm and funny, it’s no wonder they can connect with the people around them so quickly.

“​​Watching the first season, the one thing I learned was that it’s okay for me to be super vulnerable,” shares Shangela.

Eureka agrees, confessing they better understood the show’s impact on these communities moving into season two. “Season one made me understand how to better communicate with my drag daughters, what conversations I wanted to have more of, and I just wanted to get closer with every person that I worked with.”

However, COVID-19 had other plans. The proverbial dark cloud to the hosts’ collective ray of sunshine, series two was shot around December 2020, smack in the middle of the pandemic. As masks became a mandatory accessory, the queens agreed that there were definitely highs and lows.

Bob names the atmosphere of the final performances as the most significant change. “We used to come with a big crowd going bananas, but it became much more subdued with everyone wearing masks, and there were very few people there.”

We're Here Season two
“We’re Here” Season One. Photography courtesy of HBO

Eureka adds that the virus did disrupt the queens’ connection to the townspeople, who were already on the defensive in such a close and intimate setting. However, it just made one-on-one time with their drag daughters that much more valuable. “They get to be around people that are like them. You see them open up differently.”

While the show undoubtedly inspires comparisons to RuPauls’ Drag Race — the heart-to-hearts, memorable quips and drag transformations — We’re Here builds on the world that RuPaul Charles created and takes it a high-heeled step further. As the revolutionary OG competition series has pushed pop-culture boundaries, it has also been criticized for failing to represent the trans, bio queen and drag king communities.

But in We’re Here, the category is inclusivity. Townspeople with diverse backgrounds, including members of the trans, non-binary, straight, gay and autistic communities, are celebrated and are the show’s true royalty, as they fight homophobia, toxic masculinity, their “inner saboteur” and sometimes even family members. It’s perhaps more fitting to deem the HBO series a Queer Eye-meets-Drag Race fusion, featuring the best qualities of both series and elevating the art form of drag to an entirely new level.

We're Here Season two
“We’re Here” Season Two. Photography courtesy of HBO

“I’m going to say this out loud — this is the best drag on TV,” says Bob. “The drag we have on this show is really high-end, and we have some insanely amazing couture.”

Case in point: Shangela’s western denim gown from the first season. Fans of the star — known for her cathphrase “Halleloo” —  were quick to gag (but not in the good way) over the unjust exclusion of the look, created by her costume designer and constant collaborator Diego Montoya, from the Americana Met Gala red carpet in September.

 

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“I’m looking for Anna Wintour to put me on the list next year,” Shangela laughs. “But to me, every episode of We’re Here feels like the Met Gala runway because we have custom looks that have been created with different themes for each city. [See season two’s football-inspired ensembles]. We are so blessed to work with the most amazing designers and artists and also, baby, I get to keep the clothes.”

The transformational powers of drag are not to be disputed — just revisit any episode from the first series. Through hair, makeup and clothing, Shangela, Eureka, and Bob play fairy godmothers, and the magical metamorphoses of their drag daughters would make even Cinderella sashay away.

All three drag mamas are hands-on with their children while planning the climactic reveal, and Shangela notes it’s a collaborative effort between all departments. “To me, it always starts with the music. I want them to go on stage with whatever message or whatever represents their journey the best. Once the song is selected, I call my designer, and I will come to him and say, ‘Okay, here’s the song, this is the mood. What do you have to create?’ And he will sketch up something awesome.”

We're Here Season two
“We’re Here” Season Two— Joey. Photography courtesy of HBO

For all its positivity and motivational mantras (think “hope is here to slay” from the show’s promos), We’re Here is also a stark reminder of the obstacles the community continues to face. For every moment the community welcomed the queens and their transformations with open arms, there are still groups of angry bystanders yelling derogatory comments at Shangela, Eureka and Bob. While the queens handle the overtly conservative townspeople with empathy and humour (drag is not a contact sport), Coming Out Day — which falls on October 11, also the date of the season two premiere — is a reminder that it’s not as easy for everyone.

“I do get a lot of questions, not just from people but from parents about coming out and how they can help,” reveals Eureka. But her go-to advice is to always live your truth. “Whether it’s gender expression, your sexuality, or whatever you have to come out about, do it on your own time. There are no rules except the rules that you create for yourself. Have faith in the people that you love and that love you. If they don’t accept it, that’s okay, but I promise you that there are people in your life that already know and don’t care.”

That’s a powerful message for anyone to hear, no matter their background. But still, it’s a credit to the queens and activists that have come before them that such a personal confession can be so readily accepted.

“I was thinking about the people who have created spaces for me to be sitting on this Zoom call right now, and how grateful I am that people have allowed me to navigate the world,” says Bob about LGBTQ2S+ History Month, an observance held annually October. “I think about Lady Bunny, Peppermint, William Dorsey Swann, Dr. Angela Davis, and I’m just living in a place of gratitude. And you know, I’m also thinking about how to make sure that someone coming after me has a great space, too. So I’m making sure that I’m doing my thing to contribute to history going forward.”

We're Here Season two
“We’re Here” Season Two. Photography courtesy of HBO

And therein lies the magic of We’re Here. By bringing the inclusivity of the Drag Race Werk Room to communities who need it most, it forges connections, and has proved to be a reminder to anyone who has ever felt out of place — not just the LGBTQ2S+ community – that we deserve to be loved for exactly who we are. It’s all right there in the title, we’re here — you are not alone.

“I hope that people are inspired to remember that it’s so important to uplift people of our community and people from different communities that may not be even like us,” reflects Shangela. “Know that so many people feel isolated, alone, and it’s our job to try and help and bring some positivity to the world.”

After all, in the immortal words of Ru himself, “We’re all born naked and the rest is drag.”

The post HBO’s <Em> We’re Here</Em> S2: Shangela, Eureka and Bob Came to Slay appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Saturday, October 9, 2021

MCM Adds New Cubic Monogram + More Fashion News

MCM Cubic monogram revealed

 

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For 44 years, MCM had one monogram, the widely recognized Cognac Visetos. Now, following the release of the Vintage Jacquard monogram earlier this year, the leather luxury goods brand is adding a third in celebration of its 45th anniversary. In an ode to the company’s Bavarian roots, the MCM Cubic monogram features a diamond design reminiscent of the country’s flag, and the 3D pattern dominates MCM’s Fall 2021 M’ETAVERSE collection. It also features a repeating pattern that “symbolizes a convergence of the lives our consumers lead as well as the voyages and destinations which comprise them,” explained Dirk Schönberger, MCM’s global creative officer, in a press release.

Garage debuts unisex collection Garage For All

Garage For All unisex capsule
Photography by Sandy Kim

This week, Montreal-bred label Garage has stepped beyond gender-coded dressing with its first-ever unisex capsule. The apparel line, Garage For All, is filled with cozy and timeless basics such as T-shirts, crewnecks, sweatshirts, cargo pants, chunky knits and classic button ups. Clearly anchored in wardrobe staples, the collection’s use of heavier fabrics helps to create a premium feel at an affordable price.

Dior and Technogym collaborate on a limited-edition sports equipment line

Dior and Technogym Limited Edition
Photography courtesy of Dior

Dior Vibe is a unique line combining sportswear and elegance, designed by creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior’s Cruise 2022 show, held in June. In celebration of the remarkable energy that was unleashed at the event, the fashion house has teamed up with Technogym, a leading specialist in high-end sports equipment, for the creation of the Dior and Technogym Limited Edition. The couturier’s revision of the connected treadmill, multifunctional weight bench, dumbbells and gym ball will be available in January 2022.

Knix launches reusable pads ahead of National Period Day

Knix Reusable Pads
Photography courtesy of Knix

After realizing how well the KT by Knix (Knix’s brand for teens) community took to reusable pads, the label decided to make the products part of its main collection, stat. Launching just in time for National Period Day on October 10 in a regular size and an overnight size, Knix is welcoming reusable pads to its iconic leakproof category. What’s more, Knix will donate Reusable Pads to non-profit organisation The Period Purse for every pack purchased in Canada.

Pyer Moss drops The Sculpt sneaker in a red colourway

Pyer Moss The Sculpt Red
Photography courtesy of Pyer Moss

The Sculpt is Pyer Moss‘s first ever shoe designed in-house, and it has just been updated with a brand new colourway. Previously available in black and yellow, white and yellow or black and blue, the unisex sneaker is now dropping in red, continuing to embody the company’s ethos of linking today’s reality to the future.

Quartz Co. launches pop-up stores in Montreal and Toronto

Quartz Co. pop-up Montreal Ste Catherine
Photography courtesy of Quartz Co.

Design-led performance outerwear brand Quartz Co. is expanding its reach within two of Canada’s most famous commercial retail districts. On October 4, the Montreal-based brand opened its doors at Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre as part of a fall/winter residency (running through to January 5), and on Montreal’s Sainte-Catherine Street (running through to spring 2022), revealing an immersive Northern-inspired shopping experience. If you find yourself in either city, pop in to catch a look at the brand’s first-ever pop-up series.

Alexander McQueen’s Tread Slick photography series continues

Alexander McQueen Tread Slick Photography initiative
Photography by William Waterworth

For the Spring 2020 pre-collection, Alexander McQueen launched a boot called the Tread Slick, which boasted an oversized rubber sole with a canvas upper. It was birthed alongside a photography series that invited global photographers to capture the boot in an environment that means something to them personally, and the Tread Slick quickly became a coveted pillar of the house of Alexander McQueen. Off the heels of this great success, the label has enlisted six photographers — Katie Burnett, Malick Bodian, Gwen Trannoy, Charlie Gates, William Waterworth and Max Farago — to collaborate on another installment of the visual initiative, and it’s nothing short of breathtaking.

Looking for more fashion news? Here are some Spring 2022 fashion week highlights:

The Miu Miu runway show marks the return of low-rise, ultra-mini skirts

The Simpson family makes their runway debut at Paris Fashion Week

Protesters meddled with the Louis Vuitton stage, but what did they accomplish?

The post MCM Adds New Cubic Monogram + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Must-Have Halloween Beauty Products + More Beauty News You Missed This Week

Halloween glam hits Shoppers Drug Mart

Kimberley Margarita makeup using Quo Halloween Beauty products
Photography Courtesy of Quo Beauty.

If your usual Halloween look is more swaggy than spooky, Quo Beauty’s Halloween collection, which hit Shoppers Drug Mart stores this week, will likely fit right in with your end-of-month plans. The limited-edition Gold Glitter Drops and chic faux mink lashes and manicure sets can easily transition through the rest of the holiday season, while those who have plans beyond just a Hocus Pocus viewing party can get inspired by the full-on look created by Insta makeup artist Kimberley Margarita using the entire collection of Halloween beauty products. Stay tuned to her social channels on October 14th, when she’ll reveal how to get the look.

Holiday beauty gifts are rolling out, including these epic mini MAC lipsticks

MAC Mini Lipsticks
Photography Courtesy of MAC.

Ready or not, holiday beauty is starting to drop this week. While drafting your shopping list may be a ways off, we all know the best holidays gifts are usually the ones you buy yourself. This lipstick kit is definitely a contender, complete with a dozen mini best-selling lipsticks, including classics such as Ruby Woo and Dubonnet, and a versatile assortment of other shades and finishes to cover all of your bases — regardless of the size of your bag (or pocket). This year, all of MAC’s holiday gifts are also packaged in recyclable paper cartons, free of plastic components.

The Detox Market products are now available across Canada with Indigo

 

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The Detox Market, which started as a humble pop-up on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Los Angeles’ Venice Beach neighbourhood in 2010, has not only grown into North America’s leading green space (the company has five locations across L.A., New York and Toronto), but is now more accessible than ever thanks to its latest collaboration with Indigo. Now you can shop over 500 of The Detox Market’s best-selling eco-friendly, non-toxic and cruelty-free products, including those from best-selling brands such as RMS Beauty, Sahajan and Indie Lee on Indigo’s online e-store, with dedicated in-store shopping areas planned for the spring.

Goldwell’s new salon range will help you break up with your broken hair

 

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For those with fragile hair that feels like it could break if you just think about a ponytail, this new professional at-home treatment range from Goldwell might help you finally provide your delicate strands with the TLC they deserve. With Canadian toque season on the horizon, the weightless 60Sec Treatment serum feels particularly life-saving since it promises to instantly smooth, strengthen and seal frazzled hair in a minute flat thanks to peptides and amino acids that work at the core of each strand to fortify it from the inside-out. Flyaways and split ends? We don’t know them.

L’Oréal Paris launches a limited-edition of its best-selling Lash Paradise mascara

Lash Paradise Mascara
Photography Courtesy of L’Oréal Paris

If you’re one of the many massive fans of L’Oréal Paris’s best-selling Lash Paradise mascara, you’ll probably want to add the brand’s new limited-edition Moonlight formula to your weekend shopping list. Perfect for evening (or adding a certain je ne sais qoui to a masked makeup look) this deep navy formula adds all the length and volume of the original but with the added twist of an eye-brightening, deep-blue soft shimmer.

John Varvatos releases a spicy new scent for Fall

 

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John Varvatos fragrances have a long-standing fan base (he has eight scents available currently), and the latest offering, XX Indigo, won’t disappoint. The scent features classic autumnal notes including patchouli and spicy cardamom, while top notes such as lemon and peppermint keep the perfume feeling fresh and uplifted. Packaged in the brand’s trademark flask shape, this spritz could be the little pick-me-up you need this season.

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Tezza App Founders Take on Outerwear with NOIZE

When I imagine what it must feel like to be a rock star, my mind inevitably wanders to iconic moments from famous concerts. I envision Bowie singing the first lines of “Rock and Roll Suicide” while the Hammersmith Odeon erupts into screams of excitement, or Freddie Mercury hearing the lyrics he wrote being sung back to him by the 70,000 fans packed into Wembley Stadium.

But is there also room in life’s mundane moments to feel like a rock star? What does it feel like to be a celebrity in your everyday life? That is the feeling that Utah couple Tezza Barton and Cole Herrmann are reaching for in their latest collection, a collaboration with Canadian outerwear brand NOIZE.

The duo, who previously worked together on the viral Tezza app and Lello eyewear brand, have partnered with the Montreal-based label to create a 14-garment collection entitled Lost in the Sounds. The assortment features men’s and women’s sweatsuits ($125), short jackets ($200-$370) and full-length coats ($300-$370). Keeping in lock-step with NOIZE’s ethos, the line is 100 per cent vegan, cruelty-free and sustainable.

The NOIZE outerwear collection officially launches on Oct. 14, but customers can sign up to shop early by attending the Livescale launch event on Oct. 12 at 7:30 p.m, where Tezza and Cole will walk through the collection and answer guests’ questions.

“We like to keep cruelty-free and sustainability at the forefront of our products,” says Taylor Wilkinson, the project manager at NOIZE. “We’ve been sourcing a lot of our materials for years, and we are constantly trying to improve on the quality of our sustainable materials. It’s great to see sustainability coming into more fashion, and we’ve been doing it for a long time, so we take pride in that.”

noize-outerwear-collection
Photography courtesy of NOIZE

As young creatives, both of whom have spent considerable time in both New York and L.A., Tezza and Cole wanted to combine the styles of America’s two largest cities into a cohesive aesthetic. FASHION sat down with the Forbes 30 Under 30 couple to discuss how they worked to achieve this look and who inspired them along the way.

What was it about NOIZE that made you interested in this collaboration?

Tezza: There are so many things, but for one, it’s just so beautiful — the styles of the pieces are amazing and pretty timeless, but also iconic and modern. Initially, I think it was just what NOIZE stands for as a brand that attracted us. They are sustainable, cruelty-free, and they’re doing what so many other brands are trying to do, but they are doing it best.

Cole: We were just blown away at how well NOIZE does it; the quality was above and beyond anything else we’ve ever tried on, all while being able to stick to their ideals. It’s pretty amazing.

How did you come up with the name Lost in the Sounds for this NOIZE outerwear collection?

Tezza: Cole and I both played in a band together for six years, so music is a huge part of our lives, and I think it’s where we draw a ton of inspiration. When designing the collection, we were inspired by anything from the way music makes you feel to how musicians have their own aesthetic and style.

What musical artists inspired this collection?

Cole: I am obsessed with Led Zeppelin, and I just eternally wish that I was Robert Plant. I have always loved his whole style and presence and those iconic Led Zeppelin photos on the jetway, getting ready to take off; that whole vibe is really what I wanted to bring to my side of this NOIZE outerwear collection. I hope that when you throw on the oversized trench that you feel like a rock star.

Tezza: For me, it’s anybody from Joan Jett to Stevie Nicks. I’m going all the way from my boho energy to my rock and roll energy! Women in music have always been powerful icons for me and somewhere that I have always drawn inspiration from.

What design principles did you bring to this collaboration from your previous work (the Tezza app and Lello eyewear)?

Cole: One thing that has always inspired us is vintage authenticity. I would say that many of our app elements were inspired by vintage magazines, vintage fashion photography and lots of the presets are inspired by film. We’re also really inspired by storytelling. It’s something that we try to bring to all of our campaigns, including this one. There is so much story to it, we’re weaving in all of our inspirations from music and vintage.

How do you want customers to feel when they are wearing clothing from the collection?

Tezza: We focused on pieces that were timeless and wearable, pieces where you’re like, “That’s going to stay in my collection forever,” because when you put it on, it’s going to make you feel like a rock star, and it fills you with a powerful feeling. For example, the Penny Lane jacket, I remember when I saw Almost Famous, I was like, “This. Jacket. I want to have it forever,” because it’s the type of thing when you don’t know what to wear you can just throw it on, and you’ll feel great, so I wanted to have a jacket inspired by that feeling.

Are there any pieces in the collection with a specific or personal story attached to them?

Cole: Again, it’s the Led Zeppelin trench coat. I remember the first time we went to New York as a couple. I bought my first trench coat, I had never owned one before, and it just felt so good. Ever since then, a high-quality trench coat has been such a staple in my closet, and I have an attachment to New York and when we first started dating.

Tezza: When we were shooting the NOIZE outwear collection, I was wearing the Jude jacket. It’s this dark brown, beautiful jacket. I was wearing it, and I remember someone stopping me on the street and was like, “This jacket! What is it? I’m obsessed,” and I was like, “Oh my gosh, I get to tell you that we designed this.” I told her, “It is a part of our collection coming out in a couple of months.” I think that piece will always be my favourite in the collection. It was awesome.

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Friday, October 8, 2021

People-Pleasing Made Me Invisible

“I’d really rather talk about this in person,” I kept repeating over text, but each time it was like my partner didn’t hear me as she continued to type and hit “send.” This was one of those dating conversations that was best had face-to-face. But, my needs didn’t seem to matter and I let her bulldoze over them.

Knowing your boundaries is one thing, but maintaining them is another. At the time, I wasn’t good at either. 

My ex, on the other hand, had such clear boundaries that she seemed like an impenetrable fortress. She unapologetically asserted her needs and maintained emotional walls that my inner anxious child was unable to scale, but tried desperately to. While taking stock of that failed relationship, I tried to understand the radical contrast between us. How was she able to maintain that emotional distance? To stay so emotionally affixed while I rode a rollercoaster of ups and downs? How had I let myself feel so broken by the end, as though she herself was the conductor of my emotional demise?

Was it possible to have too much empathy, to feel too deeply, I wondered? I googled “what is a people pleaser?” and immediately saw myself in the handful of characteristics that popped up: feeling responsible for other people’s feelings, not being able to say “no,” over-apologizing, being uncomfortable if  someone is mad at me, acting like the people around me, avoiding conflict.

In that moment, it all became clear: I was the opposite of my ex. I was a squishy, permeable amoeba — a people pleaser.

When it hit me, I felt stunned, outside of myself. It was like a kind of heartbreak and I went a bit numb from sadness. I started to come out of the closet about five years ago in my late 30s, after marrying a man and having a daughter. But this revelation felt even bigger to me than realizing that I was queer. I had unknowingly been performing a role for so long, so who was I, really? Knowing that my deep need to appease others was the underlying reason that coming out had taken me so long took a heavy emotional toll.

I was catapulted into a full breakdown, the crying-every-day kind, as I was very suddenly forced to confront myself again. I could finally see the logic that I subconsciously used as a child to decide that this was the person I should be. Growing up, my mother had been preoccupied  (understandably) with my older sibling’s health issues. Their needs seemed all-consuming and as the youngest child of three, I didn’t want to add to my mom’s pressure. In some ways, I had made myself invisible, even though deep down I had a desperate need to be seen. 

I remember getting in trouble with my mother once for drinking in Grade 9 and I didn’t even consider taking a sip again for years. I was a rule-follower. Nobody needed to tell me to behave; I had already internalized that message.

I felt the need to be a “good kid,” to not rock the boat. In grade school I earned the nickname “miss perfect” by a bully who must’ve seen how fully formed my perfectionism was at that young age, another effort at proving self-worth that plagues many people-pleasers. In high school I excelled academically and athletically, and continued  to do so in university, graduate school and beyond. 

Looking at myself with this fresh, objective lens, I truly hated the people pleaser I saw: a push-over; a scared little girl; someone who didn’t stand up for herself, who didn’t value herself and communicate that value to others; someone who put up with pain and disrespect for the sake of closeness and keeping a connection alive. 

I thought about how this had played out in my life, again and again, like the time a woman I was dating was a no-show at my 40th birthday. Not only did I accept a glib apology from her afterward, but after I angrily expressed how hurt I was, I was so worried that my honesty would push her away that I ended up gushing about the things I did appreciate about her. I couldn’t handle the discomfort of the conflict. But now, I can recognize that behaviour as something called “fawning,” a trauma response where a person by-passes their own needs or boundaries in order to create a sense of safety by avoiding conflict. At the time I feared that my true feelings might cause her to leave me. I had to pad my emotions with positivity, despite still being hurt and resentful. 

Dodging or reconciling disagreement is very typical for a people pleaser, who tends to use agreeability as a way to avoid stress. Apparently I was a textbook case, a fact I learned from reading about people-pleaser behaviour that basically outlined much of my personality and described these unhealthy relationship patterns. 

Books helped me to intellectually understand my people-pleasing behaviours and gave me practical tips for changing them, such as ways to stall a decision rather than saying “yes” immediately out of instinct, or how to phrase and repeat a boundary when it’s being challenged. But what helped me the most was counselling with my reiki practitioner. She helped me to get in touch with and finally listen to myself (meditating was a part of this), and to expose the stories I’d been telling myself my whole life that had made me repeat these patterns: that I shouldn’t have needs, that I should be who other people want me to be, that being worthy of and receiving love requires trying really hard for it. 

It might sound cheesy, but what I needed wasn’t so much psychological healing, it was spiritual healing. I couldn’t think myself out of this pain, I also needed to feel it. I had to revisit that child inside me who was still offering her emotional response to my adult experiences — emotions that I had numbed or did not understand how to process at the time, and had therefore become part of my unhealthy programming. 

It was like I had been walking around in a cloak of invisibility since childhood. Back then, it had protected me but, as an adult, it was suffocating. I had to let that younger version of myself know that she didn’t need to hide behind it anymore. It was safe to come out; I could protect her. It was scary to take it off, but that was the only way to finally stop ignoring and abandoning myself for other people. It was also the only way to finally be seen.

I’ve had to practice and redefine so many things that scared me before — all those things that signalled a lack of trust in, and love for, myself: from something as small as speaking out in a meeting without first worrying what other people might think, to bigger things like setting a boundary or having a difficult conversation with someone I’m dating. I realize that being a people pleaser has plagued me the most where the threat of loss is greatest — in those relationships where I fear that my needs will be too much. But as much as conflict and boundaries still might make me uncomfortable, I can now see them as things that can create intimacy and trust, rather than as a threat. I now know that having needs doesn’t have to mean the end of a relationship and if it does, then it’s not a healthy one anyway. I don’t hold on so tight anymore because I know that I’m OK on my own and that I will never abandon myself again.

It might sound strange, but I’m oddly looking forward to the first fight with my girlfriend, whom I’ve been with for the last few months. I joke with her about this, but it’s true — I want to take up space that I’ve never occupied, to make myself heard when I used to remain silent, to hold boundaries where I used to be porous, and to finally be seen after so many years of blending into the background. When that argument does inevitably happen, it will have to be in person, or else I won’t let it happen at all.

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Shantay, You Stay: Drag Queen Fall Fashion Campaigns and Runway Moments

It’s no surprise to see the queens of RuPaul’s Drag Race step off the main stage and sashay into the world of high fashion — after all, the art of drag can be informed by the runways of Paris, London and Milan (and vice versa).

The VH1 reality series, which first aired in 2009, has become a pop culture phenomenon in recent years, thrusting drag into the mainstream and prompting designers such as Prada, Moschino and Coach to tap stars of the show (and it’s Canadian and UK spinoffs) for ad campaigns and catwalks. Just this past week, season 13 winner Symone and season seven contestant Miss Fame were in attendance at Paris Fashion Week, taking in the Spring/Summer 2022 collections.

In challenging the norms and embracing over-the-top aesthetics, drag queens consistently push the boundaries of fashion, influencing designers and paving a glamorous path forward for the next generation. It’s only fitting, then, to mark LGBT2Q+ History Month, a time to reflect on the history of lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender and Two-Spirit people, and the changing seasons, with a look back at some the best fall fashion campaigns and runway moments featuring the queens of RuPaul’s Drag Race.

MOSCHINO

 

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Drag Race favourites Gigi Goode, a finalist on season 12, and Symone were dripping in old Hollywood glamour for Moschino’s Fall/Winter 2021 campaign, photographed by Marcus Mam with Jeremy Scott as creative director.

BAJA EAST

Symone — the self-proclaimed “Ebony Enchantress” — was also tapped to star in Baja East’s fall 2021 collection lookbook alongside season 13 contestant Gottmilk, the first out trans man to compete on Drag Race. The Los Angeles-based luxury brand channeled the ‘90s and vintage Versace ads for the campaign, which saw the queens don lamé gowns and trenches, a cascade floor length top and velvet flare pants.

PRADA

 

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Violet Chachki, the winner of the seventh season of Drag Race, starred in Prada’s Fall/Winter 2018 womenswear campaign. The short movie “Neon Dream” also featured model Amanda Murphy and actress Sarah Paulson, who move through the glowing nocturnal landscape of Las Vegas and its famous Sunset Strip.

ART SCHOOL

 

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British drag queens Bimini Bon-Boulash, runner-up on the second season of RuPaul’s Drag Race UK, and season two contestant A’Whora walked the runway at London Fashion Week for unisex label Art School’s Autumn/Winter 2021 collection. “So honoured to be part of this cast,” Bimini, who sported a leather jacket and slashed satin skirt, wrote in an Instagram caption. “It’s out of this world beautiful. Art school are pushing the boundaries in fashion and it’s so wonderful to see. Diversity, sustainability and hot as f*ck clothes!!”

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Thursday, October 7, 2021

Meet the Jamaican-Canadian Designer Who is Khloe K-Approved

In 2009, 19-year-old Sashagai Ruddock (Sasha) would run home after a day of classes at the University of Guelph Humber, where she studied criminal justice, to share her latest fashion finds on deliciouslyfat.blogspot.com, the plus-size style destination she had created. Cut to 2021 and this Brampton-born influencer stitched her way into a US$100,000 prize courtesy of SHEIN. Streamed on the brand’s app and social platforms, the SHEIN x 100K Challenge saw designers around the world compete in multiple challenges across four episodes. In the end, celebrity judges Khloe Kardashian, Christian Siriano, Jenna Lyons, Law Roach and Laurel Pantin crowned Ruddock the winner.

During the SHEIN x 100K Challenge, Kardashian had said of Ruddock: “I don’t think she’s going to let anyone else win this competition but her” — and though she did take home the prize, her win is a win for us all. Ruddock’s size-inclusive brand Flaws of Couture is built on the ethos that people of all shapes and sizes deserve to look and feel their best. Having won the competition just a few months after launching an exclusive collection in collaboration with SHEIN, we just had to learn more about Ruddock’s journey to becoming a fashion designer, her experience as a plus-size Black woman, and how she’s working to make the future of fashion more inclusive.

Congratulations on the win! How are you feeling?

It feels really good to know that I won. I feel accomplished and fired up. Being a server for ten years, dropping collections funded by server wages and tips is all I knew. And now I have $100,000 to invest into my brand. I still feel like my usual self, though. I’m still Sasha, from Brampton, in my childhood home. Now I just have some funding for my company which I’m so grateful to God for.

What drew you to becoming a fashion designer?

I didn’t choose fashion design; I really believe that fashion design chose me…Not finding clothes that align with who you are can leave you feeling almost vulnerable as a plus-size person. It’s that feeling of, do I settle for what’s available, or do I create this for myself and those around me who need it too? It’s a huge deal. I’m 31, it’s 2021, and I’ve never experienced a “shop ‘til you drop” moment. And when I ask myself why, I think it’s because people don’t find size inclusivity necessary even though the average person falls outside of a size 12 and this enables and maintains fatphobia.

You went into the SHEIN x 100K Challenge as a streetwear designer weeks after you launched a size-inclusive streetwear collection with SHEIN. How was that experience?

You know, I was trying to do hot girl summer, but God had another plan [laughs]. There are definitely levels to how hard or challenging a competition can be, and this was a competition. And I was going to give it my all because it’s ours. When I found out Khloe was going to be my mentor, I was shook. This was one of the best experiences I’ve ever had in my entire life; it was life-changing. Everything I learned, all the people I met, the heat of the competition, making things even when you feel like you can’t — all of this challenged me and showed me what I was capable of. Sometimes you have to leave home to see what you’re packing.

SHEIN has been caught up in a few online controversies. How has your experience been working with them?

Yes, SHEIN has been the subject of controversy in the past, but from what I’ve personally seen with what the team is doing, they really are making changes and bettering themselves. I love a company that is looking to grow and contribute to changing narratives. I always feel heard. I genuinely do believe in their team because they’re willing to be accountable and grow.

On social media, you encourage your followers to love themselves no matter where they are in their journey to acceptance. So tell me, why name your brand Flaws of Couture?

I’ve always felt flawed. People will always feel like they have the right to tell you about yourself and what’s wrong with you, as a child and even now as an adult plus-size person. I heard someone in the industry say that people don’t want to see fat women on the runway — they want to see what they want to be. So, you don’t think I’m couture? But that was a lightbulb moment for me. I was like, “I’m going to prove that [plus size women] are [high fashion].” Maybe we are the “flaws of couture” to you, but we are perfect the way we are. I am a walking reminder that we deserve and that we will show up and show out, every time.

So, what do fashion and style mean to you?

Fashion, for me personally and [for] so many Black people, it’s culture. It’s really being able to step into a piece or garment that rises up to meet who you are on the inside, at your core…Fashion, to me, is who I am on the inside and a vehicle to express that.

I love that you draw inspiration from the community you seek to serve. Tell me more about what else is inspiring you these days.

Outside of plus-size people, and recently the ‘90s, I always come back to Black and brown people. They — we — are on so many mood boards and style inspiration boards, and not many will give us the credit we deserve. Though I can be inspired by anything at any moment, just being around my people and seeing how they put things together always inspires me. I also love to travel to draw inspiration. I just really want to be around Black and brown people everywhere. You don’t know what it’s like until you’re there, but I just bring my camera with me and click away.

Any final words?

Get with the program. Size inclusivity should be mandatory. I’m not the only one pushing for this, but there’s not enough. I sincerely believe that it’s irresponsible to leave out the average woman. We need above 4X. We need to get our feet wet and stop being so afraid of pushing boundaries…Every single woman is high fashion, and we deserve to feel that way.

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Actor, Singer and Red Carpet Slayer Cynthia Erivo is FASHION’s November 2021 Cover Star

While the pandemic has waylaid the best of plans, Cynthia Erivo has risen to make the most of it. When I connect with the Grammy- and Tony-winning actor, singer and producer via Zoom in late August, she is in L.A. and sounds exceptionally at ease for someone on the brink of a monumental month. Erivo’s September started with jury duty at the 78th Venice International Film Festival and a rapid-fire round of breathtaking fashion moments, including one Schiaparelli Haute Couture number in which she seemed to be encircled by silver foil.

Fashion November Cover
Photography by Royal Gilbert. Dress, price upon request, Giambattista Valli. Necklace (bottom), $3,290, Sterling King. Septum ring and studs (worn throughout) and necklace (top), Erivo’s own.

And then there was her Emmy nomination for her portrayal of Aretha Franklin in Genius: Aretha and the release of her first children’s book, Remember to Dream, Ebere, which paints the tale of a young girl encouraged by her mother to shoot for the stars. But the main event, and an actual dream come true, was the release of Erivo’s debut solo album, Ch. 1 Vs. 1, which she used as an autobiographical vehicle. “I wanted to tell a story about my life and for people to get to know me as a person,” she says

Until now, the world has come to know Cynthia Erivo through her powerful portrayal of fictional characters and real-life icons set to a soundtrack. Born and raised in London, England, she became one to watch in 2015 when her lead role as Celie in the Oprah production of The Color Purple dominated Broadway and she won a Tony Award. In 2020, playing abolitionist Harriet Tubman in Harriet earned her Best Actress nominations at the Golden Globe, Screen Actors Guild and Academy awards, where she brought the house down with her performance of “Stand Up” — the film’s Oscar-nominated song, which she co-wrote. But an album of her own work was always the plan.

Cynthia Erivo black coat
Photography by Royal Gilbert. Coat, $13,935, and earrings, $2,250, Balenciaga. Bracelet, Erivo’s own

“Music was a huge part of my childhood,” she says. “My mom would play music in the house every weekend when she was tidying up, whenever she cooked and when we’d go to school.” With exposure to an array of artists and eras, from Annie Lennox to Boney M. and Diana Ross to Lauryn Hill, Erivo credits her mom’s eclectic taste as a guiding source. “I was listening to everything,” she says. Ch. 1 Vs. 1, an emotional journey of 12 tracks that Erivo co-wrote, is the culmination of it all.

From the uplifting bop “The Good” to the soulful melody of “Hero,” her touching lyrics infuse every song. “If one person hears this and realizes that they’re not on their own, that they’ve experienced things that I have, then that’s my job done,” she says. Exposing the intimate pain and hurt of her fractured relationship with her father, who disowned her when she was 16 years old, “You’re Not Here” was the most challenging song to write. But it’s her first solo venture, and she has enjoyed accomplishing the creative task with autonomy. “What I write about, how I sing it, which key I decide to sing it in, whether I make it a two- or five-minute song—it’s all very much in my hands,” says Erivo. “This is not the case when it comes to other forms of expression, whether it be onstage on Broadway or being in a film saying other people’s words.”

Fashion November Cover story
Photography by Royal Gilbert. Dress, shoes and earrings, prices upon request, Schiaparelli. Necklace, Erivo’s own.

Professionally it’s Erivo’s job to embody other people, but personally she’s very comfortable in her own skin and her fashion choices. Serving fearless looks has consistently landed her on best-dressed lists. “I’ve had really wonderful moments, and I blame it on my stylist, Jason Bolden,” she says. “He understands what I want, how I want to see myself, and he also understands that I’m not afraid, so we really have fun playing with pieces”—which makes choosing a personal favourite impossible. “I can’t pick just one; that’s really difficult,” says Erivo, noting standouts such as the beautiful crystal-embellished white Versace ball gown she wore for the 2020 Academy Awards and the neon-green Valentino with a Jetsons vibe that she appeared in for this year’s Golden Globes. A gold-and-silver sequined Louis Vuitton column dress that “looked like it was made for Nefertiti” chosen for the 2021 Grammys and a glittering off-the-shoulder Thom Browne dress from 2020 round out her list. “It looked like a tuxedo and was the most classic shape you could think of. That was one of my all-time favourites,” she says of the latter.

Growing into her style, Erivo says that one detail has remained consistent. “I love heels—that has never changed,” she enthuses. “For me, the crazier the heel, the stranger the shape, the better. And that’s sort of where it started.” She also credits her love of vintage shopping, born out of necessity when she was an up-and-coming star, as a developmental force. “That is what really helped me out when I was new and didn’t have anything to wear,” she says. “I don’t know if I had very much style when I was younger. I was a confident kid and put on whatever I felt was right for me.”

Cynthia Erivo Red Dress
Photography by Royal Gilbert. Dress, price upon request, Giambattista Valli. Necklace (bottom), $3,290, Sterling King. Septum ring and studs (worn throughout) and necklace (top), Erivo’s own.

Self-adornment is another essential instrument in Erivo’s self-confidence tool kit. “There’s this wonderful thing for Black people that is part of our history and our legacy—it’s adorning and dressing the body in a way that allows people to see its regality,” she says. “That’s something that has always been in my head.” Erivo started getting piercings when she was in her teens and now has a number of them (the tally on her ears is 23) as well as tattoos. “It has become a part of who I am and how I present myself to the world,” she says. “I really love it.” Her latest addition, a septum ring, was acquired thanks to the now-or-never vibe of the pandemic we’ve all felt at some point. “You know when you’re like ‘Life is too short: Get the thing you want to get’? So, I got it,” she says. “Now I have a ridiculous collection of septum jewellery.”

Her practice of self-expression extends to her elongated fingertips. During our chat, she describes her present nail art as “black-and-white snakeskin coming through lava.” A fan of a soft-almond-stiletto nail shape, Erivo first fell in love with how her hands looked with long nails after her godmother took her to a salon when she was 16. “I was really obsessed with Barbra Streisand—I still am—and her hands are always manicured,” she says. “Even when she played Yentl, her fingers were manicured.” Over the years, Erivo has enjoyed collaborating with nail artists to maximize the tiny canvas. “It’s been a way to tell a story,” she explains. “Sometimes I have little hidden codes or pictures that people may not realize are in there”—such as her mustsee manicure she had done for the 2018 Met Gala that was inspired by the work of Harmonia Rosales, an Afro-Cuban-American artist who reimagines classical masterpieces featuring Black women.

Amid the glam, Erivo also makes a point to pepper her Instagram stories with grit, like her preference to start the day with movement. “Working out is like meditation—I need it,” she says. “It’s what centres me, and I feel good afterwards; I’m always chasing the endorphin rush.” In contrast to the airbrushed facades that many celebs share, Erivo doesn’t shy away from posting a sweaty barefaced selfie.

“There’s a strange pattern of showing perfection and a weird pressure that is put on people who don’t look like that when they’re working out,” she says. “When I work out properly, I absolutely sweat. I want people to see there is a reality that we all go through and it’s not a bad thing—it means it’s working.” Erivo is currently focused on training for the New York City marathon in early November, and her weekly routine includes full-body workouts and yoga or Pilates. Her best advice for surviving long-distance running? “Good sleep, good shoes and hydrate all day.” On the trail or off, those wise words would take anyone far.

Fashion November Cover
Photography by Royal Gilbert. Top and pants, prices upon request, Ashi Studio. Rings, from $445, Sterling King.

Photography by ROYAL GILBERT. Styling by JASON BOLDEN. Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS. Hair by COREE MORENO. Makeup by JOANNA SIMKIN FOR THE WALL GROUP. Production by NALIMA TOURÉ FOR ALIAS ALICE. Prop stylist: VIENNA THURLBECK. Styling assistant: JOHN MUMBLO. Photo assistants: PASCAL FRÉCHETTE, LELAND HAYWARD AND SHAYLA DELUY.

The post Actor, Singer and Red Carpet Slayer Cynthia Erivo is FASHION’s November 2021 Cover Star appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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