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Friday, August 20, 2021

Old Navy Is No Longer Segregating Their Plus-Size Section

Old Navy is making major strides towards size inclusivity.

And the sister company to Gap just announced that they are doing more than simply expanding their size range. Beginning on August 20, the Old Navy BODEQUALITY initiative will launch in an effort to democratize style and normalize all bodies. In addition to stocking sizes 0-28 in all storefronts (and size 30 online), the brand will remove the term “plus size” altogether, with women’s apparel congregating in one seamless experience and Old Navy offering all women’s styles in every size.

“We saw an opportunity to meaningfully change the women’s shopping experience by making it more inclusive regardless of size,” said Nancy Green, president and CEO of Old Navy, in a statement. “BODEQUALITY is not a one-time campaign, but a full transformation of our business in service to our customers based on years of working closely with them to research their needs.”

Old Navy Plus Size Activewear
Photography courtesy of Old Navy

The new endeavour is reimagining the retailer’s shopping environment (in stores *and* online) to be more size-inclusive, promising women the inclusive fashion and experience they deserve. Every Old Navy store will also now display mannequins in sizes 4, 12, and 18, and virtual shoppers can use a new toggle feature online to select their preferred default model display size.

To celebrate the occasion, Shrill actress and Saturday Night Live cast member Aidy Bryant will star as the face of the new campaign, which will also be released on August 20.

 

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An ambitious initiative, to say the least, it’s a historic moment as Old Navy becomes the first business of this scale to guarantee size inclusivity across its 1,200 stores. However, the true gem in this treasure trove of information is the pricing. The Old Navy BODEQUALITY initiative will not charge more for bigger sizing. Often referred to as “fat tax,” many retailers — including Old Navy previously — charge more for larger sizes of the exact same product, reasoning that the garments use more material.

“Democracy of style is so important to us but equally important is the democracy of service, and so when you walk into an Old Navy store, you should feel included no matter what size you wear,” Alison Partridge Stickney, head of women’s and maternity merchandising at Old Navy, told Vogue.

The Old Navy plus-size initiative recognizes there is more to inclusive sizing than the all too common tokenism that leads many brands to make plus sizes only available online or at limited stores. As shared in the press release, the retailer has spent the past few years reinventing and restructuring its fit process. Old Navy administered “body scans of 389 women to create digital avatars based on real women’s bodies, fit clinics with models in sizes 20-28 to revamp the industry practice of scaling up from smaller sizes and partnered with full-time fit models in size eight and 20.” Vogue also reported that all in-store staff would be receiving training, so the in-person shopping experience matches the diversity of clientele size.

“This is our platform for how we will show up for women across retail from this point forward at Old Navy,” Partridge Stickney told WWD. “All women deserve to be included in the joy of shopping. And for too long, too many women have been excluded when it comes to shopping. All you have to do is go to your local mall, shop on your favourite site, and see that there is not the same choice for a woman who wears a size 16 or 18 or bigger. We saw an opportunity to change that, to see how we could take that feeling of exclusion and flip it to inclusion.”

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Thursday, August 19, 2021

What to Do, See and Eat on Nova Scotia’s Cabot Trail

With everything that has been going on over the past year, it’s no secret we could all use a rejuvenating escape. Luckily, the most awesome points of interest are sometimes close to home. We tapped four guides from across the country to send you on a road trip to remember. From where to eat to what to buy, here’s how to make your next local excursion a truly bon voyage. First, we showed you how to conquer the majesty of Lake Louise, Alberta, explore Sauble Beach, Ont. like a local and discover the wonders of Eastern Quebec. Next up, take in the breathtaking Cabot Trail with travel tips from content creator, Jodi Robicheau.

Photography via instagram.com/jodirobicheau

Favourite things about this spot

“The overall aesthetic and calm feeling of the highlands are what we all need right now. it’s about cruising the winding coastal roads after having hiked a beautiful trail and then enjoying a bite to eat.”

Must-see attractions

“Tenerife Mountain, Salt Mountain and Blueberry Mountain, and then there’s Franey Mountain — it’s a climb, but if you’re looking for a 360-degree view of Cape Breton, that’s the spot. An easier hike is Mary Ann Falls. Explore the variety of trails to appreciate the beautiful and diverse landscape. Skyline trail is popular because it overlooks the ocean. Also visit the smaller towns, like Inverness, Meat cove, Ingonish and Baddeck.”

Photography by Kyler McGregor courtesy of Tourism Nova Scotia

What to check out

“Margaree Harbour Craft & Gift Shop. This place has everything you need — from local books to cozy knits — to fit into highland life. Wreck Cove General Store, on Cabot Trail Road, is picturesque (straight out of an old movie) and has a beautiful mountain backdrop. The Freight Shed, in Baddeck, is a lakeside eatery that offers up delicious local cuisine, from seafood chowder to vegan and vegetarian-friendly options. In Chéticamp, it’s L’abri Café Restaurant et Bar, which looks like someone’s home from the outside. It overlooks the water, and the food is unreal. The menu focuses on local craft beer and fresh food, and it’s a beautiful dining experience.”

What to bring

“I never go without comfortable shoes for walking/hiking and cozy knits, plus a French press and other items to make coffee. It really takes the mountain experience to a whole other level. If you’re a happy camper, bring a tent and camping equipment and immerse yourself in nature.”

Photography by Jaron Felix

Best place for coffee

“My favourite is The Dancing Goat Café & Bakery, which is tucked away in the stunning Margaree Valley. It offers everything from fresh bread to great coffee; it also has a lunch menu.”

How to get there

With its touchscreen display navigation system, cargo capacity storage and panoramic sunroof, the Hyundai Tucson gives good go.

What to pack

The post What to Do, See and Eat on Nova Scotia’s Cabot Trail appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Everything We Know About Season 5 of The Crown

Fans of The Crown got a delightful surprise on August 17 when Netflix released official images of the forthcoming season’s new cast members. Outtakes of the upcoming fifth season show stills of Dominic West, who will be playing Prince Charles, and Elizabeth Debicki, who will be Princess Diana — both looking appropriately pensive and glum. Naturally, we are getting increasingly excited for the new season and all the regency-core drama that will come along with it. From exciting casting news to the depiction of the royal family in more recent eras, here’s what you need to know about season 5 of The Crown.

Who will star in the upcoming season of The Crown?

The Crown has a habit of doing a complete cast overhaul every two seasons to represent the family at different stages in their lives. Season 3 and 4 were praised for appointing Josh O’Connor and Emma Corrin, who delivered an astonishingly similar portrayal of the real Charles and Diana. And despite switching up the actors for the upcoming season, Elizabeth Debicki as Princess Diana is already anticipated to be another great choice, though, some are saying Dominic West is simply too attractive to be playing a realistic Prince Charles. Ouch.

Reprising the role of Queen Elizabeth II will be Imelda Staunton — known for her roles in Harry Potter and Downton Abbey. Netflix released a still of the actor in character, wearing a classic double string of pearls and looking on stoically, embodying the monarch’s calm and steady demeanour. The queen’s husband, Prince Philip, will be played by Jonathan Price, known from Game of Thrones and The Two Popes.

Photography courtesy of Netflix Canada

The new season will also feature Lesley Manville as Princess Margaret, Claudia Harrison as Princess Anne, and Johnny Lee Miller as John Major, who was the U.K. Prime Minister from 1990 to 1997.

What is the plot of The Crown season 5?

The final two seasons of the drama series will follow the events that took place from the 1990s to the early 2000s — but will not portray present day happenings within the royal family. The fourth season ended with an unhappily married Charles and Diana, so the upcoming season will likely highlight their divorce in 1996 as well as the public exposure of Charles and Camilla’s affair. This time period also saw the divorces of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson, as well as Princess Anne and Mark Phillips. The upcoming seasons are covering a dark era in the British royal family, from the terrible fire at Windsor Castle to the death of the Queen’s mother, Princess Margaret and Princess Diana in the subsequent years. Viewers are definitely in for some morose episodes throughout the final two seasons of The Crown.

When is the release date of The Crown season 5?

The fifth season of the drama series began filming in July 2021 and is expected to be released for streaming on Netflix in early 2022. And although a decision was made earlier this year to end The Crown after season 5, creator Peter Morgan changed his mind and later confirmed that there will be a sixth and final season after all. No trailer has been released yet, but in the meantime, viewers can revisit seasons 1 to 4 of The Crown on Netflix now.

The post Everything We Know About Season 5 of <Em>The Crown</Em> appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Wednesday, August 18, 2021

How Trans Writer Estelle Grignon Overcame Her Fear of Swimsuits

When I came out as trans in 2018, a part of me was always trying to hide.

Sure, I was still a loudmouth who craved attention, and I loved wearing the most outrageous lipstick possible. But I also started wearing a lot of black, as if to blend into the darkness. I’d cover almost every inch of my body, and I’d mostly avoid public spaces.

 

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And for about three years, I never came close to a body of water other than my own private bathtub.

Like many transgender individuals, I had severe gender dysphoria (psychological distress caused when your gender identity differs from your sex-related physical characteristics) where I felt uneasy and uncomfortable in my body. As I was starting to reveal myself as a woman, I began to conceal myself as a human. In this context, the idea of a swimsuit was a nightmare: the skin-tight fabric, revealing every nook and cranny of my body, the naked legs, the naked arms — everything about a swimsuit frightened me.

Two years into my transition, however, I started to feel more comfortable with myself. Hormone therapy was helping me develop some new curves, and I finally started to become confident enough to show my legs in public.

Then one hot summer day in 2020 I got a text message from a friend inviting me to the beach with her roommates. In front of my mirror, I managed to put together a pretty cute outfit that showed just enough skin for me to be comfortable. I wore a black bralette with a sleeveless denim vest and lightweight orange mini skirt over the same pair of yoga shorts I would usually discreetly wear for modesty reasons. It felt as beach-y as I could be for someone who didn’t own a swimsuit, and I felt good.

COVID-19 restrictions were more relaxed and I was looking forward to hanging out with people. I’d stay by the beach, chat with friends, eat some snacks, listen to music and enjoy the sun. Most importantly, I’d stay dry. But my friends had other plans.

They didn’t throw me in the river. I wasn’t pushed, or forced, or anything. But instead, my friends casually offered to come in the water with me. I hesitated at first, but with their puppy-like stares and the scorching weather, I eventually relented. I dropped my vest, and I slowly made my way into the lake. The water rose from my ankles to my knees, then to my waist.

I didn’t make it all the way — my bralette remained dry, and only the end of my long, wavy hair got to touch the water. But it felt like a small victory. A new accomplishment to add to my resume. I almost wished someone would have given me a medal by the time I came back to the beach. In my little, shaky heart, I felt fireworks. It wasn’t much, but it still felt like a lot.

And now, I was ready for more. I wanted a real bathing suit, albeit one with enough fabric to respect the limits of my dysphoria. And I figured I would find the answer to my questions online.

After an intensive search, however, I realized that the fashion industry was not ready for me.

I browsed through every Canadian brand that I could think of for something modest yet affordable. Ideally, I was looking for some sort of swimsuit-skirt hybrid, covering what I needed to cover. But I was out of luck. As it turns out, I was unable to find a local brand of trans-specific swimwear. Even worse, it seemed like everything else was as minimal as possible from the waist down, and that didn’t do it.

Before transitioning, every pair of swim trunks I’d ever owned came from the boys’ section. Loose and falling right above the knee, I never had to think about the skin I was showing before then. But now, those new “feminine” options were starting to make me feel sick.

I was again invited to spend a day by a lake with some girls, and as excited as I was about the occasion, I still knew that I had little time to find a swim alternative. No matter how much I tried to resist helping Jeff Bezos, I only found what I was looking for on Amazon.

 

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It was a one-piece, ruby red bathing suit, with the built-in skirt I wanted from the start, from some random manufacturer without so much as a website to show for it. The article page made no mention of trans women, but I can only imagine I’m not the first to buy one. It was a bit tight on my body which, I know, is sort of the point, but to me, it still felt so foreign. Although my swimsuit had as much fabric as all of my friends’ suits combined, I still needed to take a deep breath before leaving the bathroom. Could I look good in a swimsuit? How big would my shoulders look in it? Was I feminine enough to rock this? What if my closest friends hated it?

As it turns out, they all loved it. Part of it might have been the colour that flattered me, and part of it was probably just how proud they were of me for reaching a milestone in my new life.

I was now free to roam through the waters like I used to, without having to worry about so many external things. I was free from the burden of my dysphoria, from the shores that kept me prisoner for so long. I’d get out of the water only to return minutes later. I never wanted to leave. Through this new bathing suit, I finally felt good in my skin.

Transitioning isn’t like doing a cannonball. More often than not, it feels like entering one toe at a time. This time I had water up to my shoulders, and it felt good.

The post How Trans Writer Estelle Grignon Overcame Her Fear of Swimsuits appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Copenhagen Fashion Week SS22 Was a Lesson in Sustainability and Scandi-Chic

There’s a magic to Scandinavia that is hard to quantify. The elusive and cool “it” girl that inhabits it and the effortless ease in which they approach life — think hygge, a lifestyle that’s all about embracing coziness, and minimalist Nordic interior design — has been coveted by North Americans for years. So leave it to Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring 2022 to host a stylish, chill and safe gathering (during a pandemic, no less!) that was as sustainable as it was fashionable.

Considered by some as the fifth fashion capital of the world, the Danish city has made a name for itself for its environmental agenda. In 2020, Copenhagen Fashion Week introduced a three-year sustainability action plan to reduce 50 percent of its emissions and commit to a zero-waste target. The event is also holding designers accountable, and any brand that wishes to participate has three years to meet strict sustainability requirements or risk being ineligible to attend.

The designers who stood out at this year’s SS22 shows were the ones that balanced environmental activism with COVID-conscious protocols and a distinctly Scandinavian aesthetic. Most designers showcased their work outdoors or virtually, as mask-wearing is not mandated in Denmark.

From a fashion perspective, versatility and easy silhouettes dominated the runways, as the labels that came out on top weren’t the ones that succumbed to using nostalgia or 1920s decadence as inspiration — a predicted Fall 2021 trend that is coming off as a bit forced and has yet to catch on — but those who embraced a quieter confidence.

Below are designers from the Copenhagen Fashion Week SS22 shows who understood the assignment and have us wanting to book our trips to Denmark pronto.

Brøgger

 

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It’s no secret colours affect our mood. Case in point: Brøgger’s soft sorbet hues. The London-based luxury label by Danish designer Julie Brøgge presented a mélange of feminine and masculine silhouettes in shades of mint, lilac and lemon in what can only be described as a very optimistic collection. As with all their pieces, for their Spring 2022 collection Brøgger combined high-quality fabrics with organic, recycled and repurposed materials to create a sustainable and innovative assortment.

(di)vision

 

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Founded in 2018 by the brother and sister team of Nanna and Simon Wick, (di)vision has become synonymous with a DIY and punk aesthetic. Housed on the rooftop of a parking garage, local rock band Woodpecker provided an edgy soundtrack as the brand explored patchwork and seaming on both men’s and women’s designs for their SS22 collection.

Ganni

 

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Perhaps the most instantly recognizable name on this list, the Danish designer credited for kick-starting the oversized collar trend of the early pandemic staged their runway 278 feet above the ground on the capital’s artificial ski slope/recycling factory CopenHill. Soft pastels and relaxed silhouettes were the perfect marriage between comfort and style, with creative directors, Nicolaj and Ditte Reffstrup saying they were inspired by “self-love.”

Saks Potts

 

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What is fashion week without a surprise? A rebel with a cause, Saks Potts presented its Fall 2022 collection during Copenhagen’s Spring 2022 Fashion Week, unveiling a curated closet of crisp shirts, wide trousers, and leather accents. Using the garden of the late architect Arne Jacobsen’s private home in Charlottenlund, guests were able to enjoy the statement coats (and there were many!) in the safety of the fresh air.

Soulland

 

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Ready or not, the future is here, and Soulland is leading the charge. Not only did creative director Silas Adler use exclusively deadstock, recycled, and organic materials for his Spring 2022 collection, the last look was released in the form of a Non-Fungible Token (NFT), which according to Forbes, is “a digital asset that represents real-world objects like art, music, in-game items and videos” that is “bought and sold online, frequently with cryptocurrency.” Androgynous silhouettes dominated the runway and played with dichotomies in the collection that was fitting titled “Love and Tragedy.”

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Tuesday, August 17, 2021

Feeling Existential Dread Because of Climate Change? Here’s What You Can Do

This past June brought unusually sweltering temperatures from the Pacific Northwest, creeping east to Gibbons, Alta., where Terri-Lynn Lunty resides. A sustained drought in the area had meant tight water restrictions, and a handful of rainy days brought little relief. Lunty remembers looking outside her window at her yellow yard and the fried trees in the distance. “Everything was dead,” Lunty says. She worried about her nine month old baby, whom she moved into the basement guest room with a portable air conditioner to cool down.

“As a mother, one of my biggest fears is not being able to keep my baby safe,” she says. “With the way things are progressing, I can’t guarantee he has a future. The worst part about it is I don’t really have the ability to do anything about it.”

This feeling of helplessness — and anxiety from the state of the world — can be echoed by many. With videos and news articles circulating on our feeds of incandescent red skies from burning forests, and flash floods sweeping through cities, the devastating effects of climate change are undeniably here. And with the recent release of the United Nations (UN) climate report, referred to as a “code red for humanity” by the UN secretary-general, the grief, burnout and eco-anxiety people are feeling can be debilitating.

Eco-anxiety refers to one’s persistent worries about the future of the earth and the life it sustains. Other terms such as “eco-trauma,” “ecological grief,” and “climate change distress” are used to describe similar emotions, but all relate to the relationship between our mental health and the state of the world. Taking into account the past year and a half, it seems our hurdles are set even higher: an ongoing pandemic certainly doesn’t ease our existential crises.

The UN climate report is very grim, but not completely hopeless

A report released on August 9 by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change sounded the alarm on the spiralling state of global warming. The report said that humans are “unequivocally” to blame, warming the atmosphere, ocean and land in some “irreversible” instances. This year has already seen record-breaking weather extremes and it’s only predicted to get worse.

Within 20 years, the average global temperature is likely to reach or cross the 1.5 degree celsius warming threshold, unless rapid, large-scale action is taken to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. A rise of 1.5 degree celsius above pre-industrial level is generally seen as the most the earth and humanity could cope without jeopardizing human health and livelihoods.

So far, any pledges made from countries on reducing greenhouse gasses have yet to be aggressive enough to make an impact. In three months, nations have been asked to come to the UN COP26 climate conference in Glasgow, Scotland with a fresh plan to reduce emissions, mostly created by burning fossil fuels. Meeting the Paris Agreement goal — limiting global warming to well below two degrees celsius — will require sticking to a tight “carbon budget,” referring to how much additional carbon can be pumped into the atmosphere, before the 1.5 degree celsius limit is breached. These ambitions may seem out of reach, but are not impossible.

Do you have eco-anxiety?

At the U.S.-based nonprofit organization Good Grief Network (GGN), staff help people cope with their eco-anxiety and grief; people are grieving their natural habitat, sense of security and what they envisioned their future to look like, among other things. People can also have anticipatory grief, mourning a loss before it comes.

Sarah Jornsay-Silverberg, the executive director at GGN, often takes calls from people who no longer want to have children due to the state of climate change. “I have struggled with that question as well: about what motherhood means on an ever changing and very dynamic planet.”

Jornsay-Silverberg says that being able to identify your feelings can help you process them in a healthy way. “We are trying to normalize…these feelings. It’s a completely normal reaction,” she says. “It means that you’re just a beating heart on this planet who loves the natural world and [is] devastated by seeing losses in it.”

She recommends doing movement practices, like a shaking routine, stretching or yoga. “Because all of the trauma of reading the news, living through these fires, living through these floods — that lives in our body,” Jornsay-Silverberg says.

Thomas Joseph Doherty, a psychologist specializing in the environment’s effect on mental health, says it’s important to unplug from the incessant “bad news” that appears on our feeds. “And unplugging does not equate to being unaware. It does not equate to being complacent and doesn’t mean you’re giving up,” he says. When we unplug, we are able to take care of ourselves better and build our capacities, he adds. But it’s important to acknowledge that the ability to unplug comes from a place of privilege.

He says it’s also a question of what you choose to plug into: if we unplug from social media, perhaps we can plug into our relationships, what brings us joy, or our neighbourhoods. Additionally, identifying your “environmental identity,” can help you ground yourself. For example, if you live in Toronto, you might feel more connected to the lakes nearby, or if you live in Calgary, you might have an affinity to the mountains. Strengthening your connection to the places you love can help solidify your values in relation to nature. “And that’s really rich and fulfilling,” Doherty says. “When we build that identity, it makes you way more resilient.”

Maneet Bhatia, a Toronto-based psychologist, recommends channeling our energy into the causes that concern us, like getting involved with a community beach cleanup or joining a community garden program, which can give us a sense of purpose. “Part of our anxieties are from wanting to do something or wanting to feel we can help change it,” he says.

What can I do to help?

Emily Charles-Donelson, a digital campaigner for Greenpeace living in Toronto, says the onus is on everyone to tackle climate change. “When conversations come up about individual action versus mass action — to get these corporations to shift — it all matters,” she says. “Because at some point, we all need to do the work that’s going to build…a sustainable community for people and the planet.”

Charles-Donelson recommends starting in your home with things that you use frequently in your day to day. You can swap paper towels for reusable cloths (she recommends the Unpaper towel roll ) or swap your disposable razors for a long-lasting reusable one. Getting your soaps (for laundry, cleaning, dishes, shampoo/ conditioner, etc.) from refill stores, like Saponetti in Toronto, can also help reduce your plastic waste, she says.


Fast fashion is another mass contributor to climate change, and Charles-Donelson recommends buying second hand, or seeking out designers who use upcycled materials, such as Zero Waste Daniel and Copious Fashion. You can also borrow tools from a local lending library, especially for things you don’t necessarily use frequently.

According to Second Harvest, 58 percent of all food produced in Canada (35.5 million tonnes) is lost or wasted every year. Charles-Donelson recommends shopping as locally as possible, like at farmer’s markets, buying food that’s in season and cutting back on meat and dairy; having one meat-free meal a day is a great start.

For those itching to help out in their communities and contribute to larger, systemic change, connect with groups tackling food insecurity, or urge your government to invest in local, resilient food systems. Charles-Donelson draws attention to the Canada-Mercosur free trade deal in an attempt to end importing meat tied to the destruction of essential climate-cooling ecosystems.

“[And] learn about Indigenous knowledge of sustainable food systems, such as regenerative agriculture and food forests,” she says. “Advocate for these systems.”

“You won’t always feel great when you’re doing climate work, but if you can find the joy in it — and it’s there — it truly is the most rewarding, empowering, connected feeling. I wouldn’t do any other work than what I’m doing right now.”

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Monday, August 16, 2021

How to Shop for Jewellery Ethically

In fashion, ethical has become essential. We’ve seen this clearly with clothes, where sustainability and recycling, if not industry norms, are being viewed by more and more consumers as crucial features that bring added value. But what about jewellery?

In fact, well before the mainstream fashion world was waking up to the ethical issues associated with making clothing, the jewellery world was addressing some not-so-pretty problems in its own backyard: blood diamonds, for example, sold to fund wars, and gold mining, resulting in deforestation and water pollution and done by poorly paid workers (often children) subjected to some of the worst working conditions on earth.

But fear not: Not all bling is bad. You just have to choose carefully. Thankfully, retailers, watchdog organizations and the big providers themselves are making this easier for us by putting protocols for guilt-free gold and responsibly sourced gems in place.

Border-free initiatives

Among the most important of the “clear conscience” initiatives is the Kimberley Process — a multi-stakeholder effort to eliminate trade in conflict diamonds by improving international co-operation, transparency and oversight. It is now the industry standard and followed by most reputable jewellers including Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Maison Birks, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chopard and Louis Vuitton. Equally important is the World Diamond Council’s System of Warranties (SoW) — an industry self-regulation program similar to the Kimberley Process. One key difference is that the SoW extends beyond rough diamonds to include polished diamonds and diamond jewellery, which means the warranty can be applied and passed on every time the diamond changes hands before it reaches the customer. The Chain of Custody (CoC) certification of the non-profit Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) enables customers and suppliers to see how jewellery products and materials are sourced, traced and processed through the supply chain. Other certifications to look for when buying jewellery are those bestowed by the Swiss Better Gold Association (SBGA) system and the Fairmined and Fairtrade programs. Earthworks’s No Dirty Gold campaign puts pressure on the mining industry to minimize its environmental impact and calls on consumers to insist that this be cleaned up.

Covid has impacted gems, too

COVID-19 has put new stresses on the jewellery world. To keep the focus on responsible sourcing during the pandemic, Human Rights Watch is co-operating with key companies and suppliers to ensure that they are complying with the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development’s Due Diligence Guidance and other best practices. It also monitors what steps these companies are taking to minimize their environmental impact and risks from climate change.

Traceability

The important players in the jewellery game are compliant with efforts that track a diamond’s every move before it reaches the store — and they proudly say so. Many, including Bulgari, Cartier, Pandora, Signet and Tiffany & Co., have issued codes of conduct for their suppliers and made them public. Beyond that:

• The Arctic Canadian Diamond Company has a line of independently tracked diamonds called Canadamark; each stone is fully traced from the mine to its final cut and polish.

• Maison Birks, a longtime adherent of the Kimberley Process, was one of the first jewellery houses in Canada to exclusively use conflict-free, sustainably mined diamonds in its bridal collections. It has also supported a range of environmental programs, from protecting Canada’s boreal forest to urban beekeeping.

• Chopard’s gold, diamonds and coloured gemstones are all sourced from ethical mines that participate in programs like the SBGA or Fairmined and Fairtrade or are recycled from ethical suppliers such as RJC CoC-certified refineries.

• Cartier only sources gold from suppliers that are members of the RJC. Among these is a “model” mine in Honduras. Cartier purchases its entire output of gold, which is then refined in Italy at a facility solely dedicated to processing its gold.

• Van Cleef & Arpels is a certified member of the RJC and follows circular-economy concepts in its activities, avoiding more wasteful “take, make, dispose” models whenever possible.

• Tiffany & Co. has pushed to expand on the Kimberley Process requirements to include non-conflict-related abuses. All of the rough diamonds it sources are 100 per cent traceable from a known mine or a supplier with a limited number of known mines. It also has full CoC certification for newly mined gold, which it exclusively sources from only one mine: the Bingham Canyon Mine in Utah.

Examples of ethical indie jewellery brands

Sandy Leong, in collaboration with Gemfields, a worldleading ethical gemstone supplier and the owner of Fabergé, has recently launched a fine-jewellery collection featuring responsibly sourced emeralds, recycled 18 karat yellow gold and conflict-free white diamonds. As part of the Walk for Giants capsule, these pieces also help support conservation projects in Africa.

Los Angeles-based Washed Ashore uses only recycled gold and silver and post-consumer gems mainly from second-hand sources in its creations. Its packaging is fully recyclable (you’d think this would be the norm by now, but, alas, it’s not), all of its recycled metals are obtained through an RJC-certified refinery and some of its proceeds go to help its partner, CarbonFund, fight global warming. Also from Los Angeles — and a favourite among the Hollywood A-list — is Zoë Chicco, who only uses conflict-free diamonds in her eponymous collection, along with 100 per cent recycled 14 karat gold.

Ottawa artist Chayle Cook uses sustainable sources of silver and gold, fair-trade gemstones and Canadian diamonds in her handcrafted jewellery.

New York-based sisters Morgan and Jaclyn Solomon work with local artisans for Agmes, their line of handmade jewellery. Almost all of themetals they use are recycled, and any scrap metal is melted down for reuse.

Malleable Jewellers in Toronto uses ethically sourced gold and recycled precious metals and stones wherever possible in its Fairtrade-certified jewellery.

Vancouver’s Poppy Finch works primarily with recycled gold and exclusively with responsibly sourced diamonds, pearls and coloured gemstones. Each piece is handcrafted by local goldsmiths and craftspeople. Also from Vancouver is Wolf Circus, which hand-fabricates or casts “demi-fine” and “attainable” jewellery using the lost-wax casting process. Only recycled sterling silver or bronze is used, and the pieces are coated with 14 karat gold plating.

So, while all that glitters is not necessarily good and some diamonds are definitely not a girl’s best friend, it’s easy enough to find pieces that don’t have a shady past. The list of ethical and eco-friendly jewellery makers is only going to get longer as more consumers demand jewellery that not only looks great but also makes them feel good about wearing it.

Now that you’ve read up on how to shop for jewellery ethically, here are some guilt-free pieces to peruse:

The post How to Shop for Jewellery Ethically appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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