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Friday, June 4, 2021

40+ Gift Ideas for the Father Figure in Your Life

Father’s Day is approaching and we have a few (dozen) suggestions on what to gift the dads (and dad-like figures) on your list. The notion that fathers are the hardest people to shop for is sometimes a reality and with that in mind, a roundup of more than 40 items ranging from a North Face tent to a fancy Aarke water carbonation machine surely contains just the gift that says, “Thanks, pops.”

For the more fashion-forward father, trousers from Fear of God or a beaded David Yurman bracelet may do the trick, while Ten Garments Every Man Should Own — a new book by Pedro Mendes, one of Canada’s leading male style experts — will be great for anyone looking to upgrade their wardrobe game. A homebody will surely appreciate linen slippers from Muji paired with a new set of mugs that have been hand-finished in Portugal. But sometimes the simplest gifts are the most thoughtful — a handwritten note to the dude you look up to on a card from Canada’s Indigenous art collective IndigenArtsy will be something they cherish forever.

Whatever suits the father figure that’s dear to your heart, here are more than 40 Father’s Day gift options you can order online.

The post 40+ Gift Ideas for the Father Figure in Your Life appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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What’s the Deal With Ellie Kemper and a Racist Debutante Ball?

Ellie Kemper is known for the adorable girl-next-door she plays in basically all her roles — most notably as Kimmy in Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt and Erin in The Office. When her name was recently trending on Twitter, some fans thought perhaps it meant they were getting a reboot or spinoff of their fave sitcom. But this is 2021, and nothing can be so simple. The actual reason Kemper was trending was because of an old, resurfaced photo of her as the “Queen of Love and Beauty” at St. Louis’s Veiled Prophet (VP) Ball, an organization known for its racist past and possible ties to the white supremacist Ku Klux Klan (KKK) group. *Sighs* Here’s what to know about this strange turn of events.

What exactly happened with Ellie Kemper?

It all started on May 31, when someone tweeted about the VP Ball in St. Louis, Missouri, calling it “a fancy event put on by our local KKK,” and adding that Kemper was once named queen of the ball. Following this, an old newspaper clipping from the St. Louis Post-Dispatch resurfaced on Twitter, featuring a photo of 19-year-old Kemper as the “1999 Veiled Prophet Queen of Love and Beauty.” Kemper is shown wearing a white debutant gown with long white gloves, and the tweet dubbed her the “KKK queen.” Yikes.

“Ellie Kemper” began trending on Twitter, with speculations circulating about the organization’s ties to the KKK, and memes poking fun at how ridiculously terrifying this is. To no one’s surprise, it turns out the Veiled Prophet Organization indeed has a dark and disturbing past, so buckle up.

What is the Veiled Prophet Organization?

Back in 2014, Scott Beauchamp did a deep dive into the history and practices of the organization for The Atlantic , and there’s a lot to unpack. The group was founded in 1878, when a confederate soldier brought together the local white “elites” to create a secret society: the Veiled Prophet Organization. Every year, a secret board would name someone the Veiled Prophet. The chosen VP (whose identity would remain anonymous) would then select a Queen of Love and Beauty at the organization’s debutante ball. The ball’s guest list was confidential, but only the town’s wealthiest and most powerful could attend, and the event was accompanied by a parade and fair.

The VP Organization was founded in response to the growing civil unrest of the working class. A year prior to its formation, railroad workers started the national Great Railroad Strike, where they halted train cars to draw attention to the unethical working conditions and unfair pay they endured. When the strike reached St. Louis, the town’s workers protested in solidarity with the strikers, calling out the disparity between the predominantly white wealthy elites and the working class. The strike ended when 5,000 “special police” joined forces with federal troops to disperse the crowd, killing eighteen strikers. The following year, the Veiled Prophet Organization was founded to assert the power and wealth of St. Louis’s white elite.

Organizations like the Veiled Prophet were very common in late 19th century America, says Andrew Johnston, a history professor at Carleton University. Organizations that were filled with white, Protestant, upper-class members were commonly established after periods of labour unrest. The “American governing class” felt threatened by the working class, immigrants and racialized people, he said, and used these organizations to exert dominance over them. “There was growing consciousness of racial competition, and it was just getting worse,” says Johnston, adding that St. Louis has historically been a hotbed of racial violence.

So, is the Veiled Prophet Organization tied to the KKK?

There is no public evidence directly tying the two organizations to one another, but the VP organization’s history is undeniably racist. In the earlier years of the VP’s parade, there were racial stereotypes depicted on the floats. Black and Jewish people weren’t allowed to be part of the organization for many years, and were only given admittance in recent decades. Perhaps the most jarring is the image of the first Veiled Prophet, who is dressed in a white cloak and is armed with a shotgun and pistol, seemingly modelled after a Klansman.

Mathew Czipf, a masters student at Carleton University studying the connections between the KKK and other white supremacist groups, says members of the VP Organization were likely to run in the same social circles as those in the KKK. Secrecy was a pillar of these organizations, allowing members to maintain political power and influence without the stigma of being in a white supremacist group.

“The people who wanted to join the Klan or get involved in white supremacy explicitly would find the Klan first, realize that they can’t advance their ideas or agendas through the Klan anymore because of how heavily policed it is, and then move out into smaller organizations, organizations by different names,” said Czipf.

By 1992, the name of the Veiled Prophet Fair was changed to Fair St. Louis, in an effort to rebrand and remove the connection to its past. But the organization still exists, representing longstanding inequities in St. Louis. The annual debutante ball exists too, in which young women from wealthy St. Louis families are presented to a “Veiled Prophet.”

What’s our takeaway?

To put it plainly: this whole thing is messed up. But sadly, it’s not that surprising. Kemper comes from old money and a privileged background; her family founded Commerce Bancshares, and she attended Princeton. Membership from the country’s wealthiest white families to groups like the Veiled Profit Organization does not come as a shock. While this is certainly not a good look for Kemper, it’s indicative of a larger issue within American history and culture: that organizations with such disturbing pasts continue to live on through traditions like the Veiled Prophet Ball.

Kemper has not yet responded to the situation, and whether she knew the extent of the organization’s history or not, it comes down to the importance of being socially aware. Johnston said claiming not to know about the history of a social issue such as this “means you either didn’t know because you weren’t listening, you chose not to know, or you lived in a circle of life that was completely cut off from those things.” Whatever the reason may be, it’s never too late to start learning, unlearning and taking accountability.

The post What’s the Deal With Ellie Kemper and a Racist Debutante Ball? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Nouveau Riche Vintage Owner Andrea Lalonde on Her Dream Pride Shoot

“The transformative power of gay glamour.” It’s a notion Toronto-based vintage purveyor Andrea Lalonde has been ruminating on more and more these days — and not only because of the recent surge in documentaries about the heydays of disco and Studio 54 giving more of us insight into the lives of queer creatives.

Lalonde, who owns Nouveau Riche Vintage, also notes that on the occasion of Pride it’s crucial to reflect on the pioneers of the movement, such as Marsha P. Johnson and Sylvia Rivera, and how they would “pull a look and march in protest.” She adds that this idea has regrettably been largely lost because of the lack of in-person events the last year and a half. For her part, Lalonde is reinvigorating it with the release of a new series of images of Nouveau Riche’s wares, donned by model Meg Cule and her partner, Alexa Precious.

Laid-back linens, light knits tailored trench coats as well as ’90s-ish denim and leather are featured in the photos, which were styled by Nadia Pizzimenti and captured by Claudine Baltazar — with Allana Fennell as makeup artist and Antonia Stanley doing hair. An easy elegance and intimacy permeate each shot and they’re a stark contrast to the visuals we’ve become accustomed to seeing around Pride month. And that’s intentional, Lalonde notes, in terms of recalibrating the notion of what queerness looks like; if rainbows are your thing, however, she’s got plenty of multi-hued attire in stock as well.

andrea lalonde pride
Photography by Claudine Baltazar

Lalonde has put a much greater focus on creating these look books throughout the pandemic, both to sell her products and to reconnect her with the kind of curation and story-telling that were present when she worked in the art and film spaces. “I’m in fashion accidentally,” she laughs, highlighting that while working for Toronto’s Inside Out Film Festival, which currently runs until June 6, she became increasingly interested in queerness in cultural spaces.

Yet her present position as proprietor of one of the city’s most popular vintage venues, which also has a rental and archival component, is a role she’s embraced heartily. And she seeks to use it as a platform when it comes to informing a vintage-loving audience about the diversity of queer makers throughout history. Disco, for example, wasn’t “just glitter — it’s loaded with magical queer history,” she says, adding,  “I have less shame around the fact that I think fashion is important, especially for queer people. It’s a way to form identity. [I’ve] always ensured my store was a safe space for people, no matter who you are, to play dress up.”

She’s also quick to note that there’s much “work to be done around making the fashion world a safe and less exploitative place” and realigning the notion that “queer is cool” to extend beyond the visuals and appropriation of culture to “making sure that queer people are involved in decision-making, too.”

andrea lalonde pride
Photography by Claudine Baltazar

This is something that’s become an extra potent point given the rising commercialization of Pride festivities, and how many see it as a collection of hollow gestures by corporations who are only interested in engaging with the community around the month of June, and, only in terms of selling them products or giving visible sponsorships. As the world at large has also begun to refocus where they spend their dollars throughout the pandemic, Lalonde says that to celebrate Pride this year, one should consider supporting queer-owned business — especially if they were your favourite places to visit in the “before times.”

“I want my Pride to be in a bookstore,” Lalonde laughs as she points to Glad Day Bookshop — and their Golden Girls-themed brunch Rose Beef, hosted by local artist Mikiki in particular — as a beloved boîte to spend time in. “We’re starting to recognize the vitalness of small businesses, and I’ve seen such resilience this year,” she adds. And we couldn’t think of two better words to sum up the essence of Pride, either.

The post Nouveau Riche Vintage Owner Andrea Lalonde on Her Dream Pride Shoot appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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