Pyer Moss Will Debut Haute Couture This Summer + Other Fashion News To Know

Mood-boosters abound in this week’s fashion news, including the announcement that New York-based brand Pyer Moss will make its debut during Paris Haute Couture in July. There’s also the current Dior Men pop-up found at Holt Renfrew Vancouver, which pays homage to the French brand’s Fall 2021 collection collaborator, artist Kenny Scharf. And Netflix’s new limited series about the life of fabulous and fraught fashion icon Halston may have you channeling going-out energy from your couch. Read on for the latest in all things style-related…

Pyer Moss will show its first Haute Couture collection in July

 

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After a brief hiatus from the runway, designer Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss has recently given fashion fans plenty to talk about. In addition to confirming its return to the New York Fashion Week calendar in September, Jean-Raymond announced that his brand has joined the ranks of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, and will debut Pyer Moss Haute Couture during the shows this July. This will be the label’s first Couture collection, and the occasion also marks Jean-Raymond as the first Black American designer to be invited by the Chambre Syndicale to show during its calendar.

Dior Men is hosting an arty pop-up in Vancouver

Photography courtesy of Dior

Holt Renfrew Vancouver plays host to Dior Men’s Fall 2021 collection, designed by Kim Jones in collaboration with renowned artist Kenny Scharf. The whimsical display can be seen in the retailer’s iconic Skybridge setting, its sci-fi vibe recalling the atmosphere of the luxury house’s runway presentation earlier this year. And it plays up the vibrant, pop art sensibility that Scharf infused into a range of knitwear, suiting, outwear and accessories. Get your fill of the fun until May 30.

Allbirds and adidas collaborated on a running shoe with each brand’s lowest carbon footprint to date

Photography courtesy of Allbirds

Please welcome Future.Footprint, the new trainer that’s being described as the “personal best” for performance-centric brands Allbirds and Adidas. With a carbon footprint under 3kg and manufactured using a reported 63 percent less emissions than a comparable design, the shoe’s midsole — based on the adidas Lightstrike model — is made with Allbird’s sugar-cane based SweetFoam material.

“We believe that the challenge of solving climate change is the problem of our generation and solving it will not be done alone,” Allbirds co-founder and CEO Tim Brown said in a press release about this unique partnership. “We need to find new business models, new innovations and new ways of working together. Our partnership with adidas is an example of that. Over the past year, our two teams have raced as one to create a shoe as close to zero carbon emissions as we could possibly achieve. The results are an exciting step forward, and hopefully, an example for others to follow.” The prototype for the shoe is part of a limited Creators Club release this month, with wider availability coming for fall.

Sidia is about to restock its top-selling pieces

Photography courtesy of Sidia

Effortless essentials-centric label Sidia, launched by Canadian creative multi-hyphenate Erin Kleinberg, is answering the continued call for comfy-chic clothing with the re-release of its eponymous set on Thursday, May 20. Composed of a cardigan and palazzo pants (you had us at “elasticized waistband”), the duo became an instant sell-out when it first launched last year. This time around, a portion of the sales from the drop will be donated to the UNICEF’s India COVID-19 Relief Fund. The brand is marking the return of this customer fave with the release of a short film directed by emerging Toronto-based director Serville Poblete; its premise nods to the dream-like joy of a post-pandemic world — and with Ontario’s recent lockdown extension, that vibe can’t come soon enough.

Londre and The Birds Papaya have teamed up for a sustainably-minded, anti-shame swimwear launch

Photography courtesy of Londre

Vancouver-based swim and loungewear label Londre has collaborated with Canadian influencer and body positivity activist Sarah Nicole Landry, a.k.a. The Birds Papaya, on a capsule of three new bathing suit pieces. The collection includes Londre’s best-selling Minimalist one-piece, as well as new designs the Sarah top and Nicole bottom; all come in an extended size range and boast a unique floral motif called “Where’s Vulva” (look closely and you’ll know why!). The aim of the print is to rouse “sensuality and playfulness” while “abolishing shame around the most life-giving force, the vulva,” according to a press release. Get your hands on these clever looks when they go online Monday, May 17.

Netflix’s Halston series is here

Photography courtesy of Netflix Canada

In need of a little glamorous escapism? Ewan McGregor stars in the Netflix limited series Halston, an eye-candy infused glimpse at the highs and lows of America’s “first celebrity designer,” Roy Halston Frowick. A favourite of stars like Liza Minelli (played in the series by Krysta Rodriguez), Halston’s contributions to the annals of design are many, including the hat he made for Jacqueline Kennedy’s appearance at John F. Kennedy’s presidential inauguration. But he’s best known for the slinky, minimalistic silhouettes that reigned during the 1970s and were favoured by the Studio 54 set.

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Chanel Showed Its Iconic Tweed Suit In Eco-Conscious Fabric

A smart tweed suit is shorthand for Chanel. For its Cruise 2021/22 collection, the storied French fashion house gave the fashionable classic a sustainable makeover, introducing what it refers to as “eco-responsible fabrics.” Twenty-eight of the 78 looks in the collection were made using more than 70 percent of these new textiles, which are GOTS- and GRS-certified. And that includes the iconic tweed suit.

For a luxury brand that has been using the finest materials for decades, incorporating recycled fabrics is a big deal, and especially symbolic when you consider that it’s being used for its legendary tweed. But at a time when greenwashing is rampant, we wanted to know what it really means when a global leader like Chanel makes sustainability claims about its materials.

A look made with sustainable tweeds in the Chanel Cruise 2021/22 collection. Photography courtesy of Chanel.

What does it mean to be GOTS- and GRS-certified?

To verify the quality of its eco-responsible fabrics, Chanel has received two designations: Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certification.

GOTS is considered the “worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent third-party certification of the entire textile supply chain.” Obtaining GOTS certification means addressing four key areas or production: using organic fibres, meeting ecological and social criteria, examining all processing stages and third-party certification. In short, GOTS has certified that these materials do come from organic farming, with dignified working conditions and respect for the environment upheld from start to finish.

GRS, meanwhile, focuses on tracking and verifying the content of the recycled material in the final fabric. Like GOTS, GRS takes into account the full supply chain, addressing traceability, environmental principles, social requirements, chemical content and labelling. Their standard is there to support companies wishing to confirm the recycled content of their products along with verifying that the social, environmental and chemical practices used to produce these products are responsible.

A look made with sustainable tweeds in the Chanel Cruise 2021/22 collection. Photography courtesy of Chanel.

What does the use of sustainable fabrics mean for Chanel?

Chanel is a global leader in crafting heirloom-quality, made-to-last garments, which in itself goes a long way towards sustainability in fashion. It’s hard to imagine anyone who invested in a tweed suit would send it to a landfill along with the estimated 92 million tonnes of textile waste generated globally each year.

And preserving quality craftsmanship is paramount for Chanel. Over the years, it has acquired some 30-odd suppliers, a group of exceptional craft workshops it groups under its Maison d’Art label, including weaving studio Lesage, silk weavers Denis & Fils and Scotland’s Barrie Knitwear. One of their more recent additions was Vimar, the Italian fancy yarn company they acquired in July 2020 and whose unique techniques it uses to create yarns for Chanel tweeds.

It makes sense that a brand so clearly focused on upholding high craftsmanship and material standards would extend that same care to its incorporation of recycled materials and eco-friendly fabric.

A look made with sustainable tweeds in the Chanel Cruise 2021/22 collection. Photography courtesy of Chanel.

Is this collection groundbreaking?

Chanel reports that 28 of the 78 looks have more than 70 percent eco-responsible fabric, which shakes out to about 36 percent of the collection. While still a minority of the collection, this innovation is certainly a step in the right direction, especially taking into account that it’s only one part of the brand’s greater push towards sustainable operations.

In April, for example, Chanel announced a new partnership with the University of Cambridge Institute for Sustainability (CISL). It involves building an education and sustainability leadership program for Chanel management and teams, operational projects that will accelerate innovation within Chanel and support for students in CISL’s Masters in Sustainability Leadership program. Bringing Cambridge experts on board is no doubt an investment in the future.

“This new partnership reflects key pillars of our business transformation: from research and insights that deepen our understanding to finding tangible solutions that positively impact our supply chain and wider communities,” said Chanel chief sustainability officer Andrea d’Avack in a press release. “This is underpinned by educational initiatives that will help to embed a sustainability mindset to accelerate change.”

A look made with sustainable tweeds in the Chanel Cruise 2021/22 collection. Photography courtesy of Chanel.

What other luxury brands are making sustainable changes?

The luxury fashion industry has been leaning into sustainable practices for some time. One high-profile example is Stella McCartney, who has long championed a cruelty-free ethos with her vegan line.

And legacy brands are on the same page. Take Hermès, which announced it would be using mushroom leather to create bags, which is lab-grown and uses less resources than traditional leather. And recently, a group of luxury brands that included Chopard, Kering and LVMH, which owns Tiffany & Co., revealed the launch of the Gemstones and Jewellery Community Platform, which aims to provide support and resources around responsible gemstone sourcing.

What does this mean for luxury fashion as a whole?

The fashion world has had great impact through its philanthropic support of worthy causes. At the same time, some brands have been reluctant to air their own dirty laundry. “They want consumers to think their products have all been made by Geppetto in his workshop in Florence. So they’re not going to talk about their workers in China, Romania, Turkey or North Africa, which would soil their image,” said Dana Thomas, author of Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster, in a 2009 interview with Reuters.

When a leading brand like Chanel reinvents an icon using sustainable materials, it sends a message that luxury and sustainability can go hand in hand.

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Expect To See the Y2K-Inspired “Coconut Girl” Aesthetic Everywhere This Summer

Tropical prints, temporary glitter tattoos, halter tops. Ever wanted to relive those early aughts fashion choices — judgment-free? Well now, you can. Introducing “coconut girl,” a made-for-summer aesthetic that has been all over TikTok lately. Like many current what’s-old-is-new-again fashion trends such as Juicy Couture tracksuits and low-rise denim, the coconut girl look brings us right back to 2000s style, with its flowy skirts and beaded necklaces. Think early 2000s Rihanna with splashes of Blue Crush and early The O.C. vibes. Here’s a little background on the coconut girl aesthetic and some tips on how to achieve it.

@hsaesthicthank you for all the love!💌#summer2021#aesthetic#pintrest#coconutgirl#fyp🧸💗#2021#summer#dreamlife♬ Go Down on You – The Memories

What is the coconut girl aesthetic and where did it come from?

A coconut girl is breezy, bright and reminiscent of the early 2000s. Full of pastel pinks, blues and yellows, this aesthetic brings Y2K to the beach. With some Floridian influence, it has also been dubbed the “Key West kitten aesthetic.”

@sexydeftonesfankey west kitten 🍭🏝 #coconutgirl #lizzygrant #AerieREAL #lanadelrey #keywestkitten #floridakilos #coquette #lolita♬ F L O R I D A K I L O S – ☕𝓗𝓾𝓷𝓷𝔂𝓫𝓾𝓷☕

Though new to some, this style was first popularized years ago, notably in TV shows and movies that are set near the beach, such as Aquamarine (2006) and H20: Just Add Water (2006-2010). Heavily used imagery of the hibiscus (Hawaii’s state flower) and the word “coconut” implies influence from tropical locales. Acknowledging this influence is important, so that wearers of the trend are not simply appropriating Hawaiian or Caribbean cultures when sporting their favourite 2000s beach-inspired looks.

Thanks to its renewed popularity, the coconut girl aesthetic is fast becoming a favourite micro trend for summer 2021. In comparison to mainstream trends that typically stick around for three to seven years, a micro trend stays “trendy” for only a few months. A word of caution: the fleeting popularity of micro trends can contribute to overconsumption, as people often stop wearing the clothes once the trend cycle ends. A way to combat this is by shopping more intentionally: buying something because you like it, not just because it’s trendy, and shopping more sustainably by thrift shopping.

Rihanna at an event in 2005. Photography by Getty Images.

How to achieve the coconut girl look

The coconut girl aesthetic is simple yet unmistakable. To start, pair a tropical- or floral-print top with a pastel-coloured mini-skirt. Add a knit bag, and accessorize with layered shell or beaded necklaces and crochet bracelets and anklets. Take the Y2K beach-goer look a step further by adding a temporary sparkly tattoo (bonus points if it’s a dolphin), and voilà!

@xokamilecall it whatever you want, i’ll call it growing up in florida. i love the vibes sm tho <3 #keywestkitten #coconutgirl #fyp♬ original sound – julie<3 (dms dont work)

The coconut girl aesthetic has hit Gen Z folks and millennials alike with a wave of nostalgia. Is it possible the reason these Y2K trends have become so popular is because they remind us of simpler, more carefree times? Whatever the reason may be, early 2000s aesthetics like the coconut girl are not done making their way back into our lives.

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Velour Beauty Founder Mabel Lee on Being Her Own Role Model

If you’re into false lashes, chances are you have a set or two of Velour Beauty falsies in your collection, if not part of your regular rotation. That’s because the silk and faux mink lashes that are beloved by everyone from Meghan Markle to Beyoncé are widely considered some of the best in the industry. But what’s the story behind one of the most successful false eyelash brands at Sephora? Next up in our series of profiles in celebration of Asian American and Pacific Islander (AAPI) Heritage Month, we caught up with Velour Beauty founder (and Canadian!) Mabel Lee to chat all things beauty, including how growing up mega-independent shaped her as an entrepreneur.

On Velour Beauty’s beginnings

“I started Velour out of personal necessity. My go-to beauty product was false lashes. Growing up, I was really insecure about my small eyes, and what gave me confidence was false lashes. For some, that product could be foundation to cover up acne or lipstick to enlarge lips but for me, it was always false lashes. With that said, I did not come from a beauty background, I just made it a hobby to hunt for the perfect set of false lashes. A year into that hunt, I realized that there was a huge void in the false lash category — all that was available were synthetic drugstore lashes. There was no such thing as a luxury lash market and I wanted to create one that looked natural, long-lasting, comfortable, and easy to apply. Never in a million years did I expect to make a business out of it.

“Once I realized the key was the materials being used, I came up with what I considered the perfect lash. A few friends helped me with the packaging and creating a very cheap website and in 2011, we launched Velour Lashes. This was really a side hustle for me as I was still set to finish school and achieve my dreams of becoming a corporate lawyer. But little did I know the launch of Velour would completely change my career path. Within the first year of launch, we had celebrities like Beyoncé mentioning that our lashes were her go-to and retail giants like Sephora asking us to help them build out the luxury lash space. Ten years later, while I didn’t end up going to law school, Velour is now sold internationally with large retailers like Sephora and Ulta.”

On navigating the pandemic as a beauty brand founder

“March 2020 was probably one of the darkest periods for the brand. When Sephora and Ulta closed their doors due to COVID-19, our brand was hit significantly given that 70 percent of our revenue comes from retail. Direct-to-consumer was not our focus and so we had to pivot and shift strategy almost overnight to move all that traffic. Thankfully, we were able to do so, but having our retailers doors close was a hard hit for the brand. Our retail partners have been so understanding and we made it out on the other side okay so we’re grateful for that.”

On feeling underrepresented in the beauty space

“Growing up I didn’t have any Asian female entrepreneurs to look up to, especially in the beauty industry. While it was exciting to discover and carve out my own journey, it was also very scary being an anomaly in the industry — female, Asian, and very young (I was only 21!). It is very exciting, though, to see many more Asian American founders in the beauty industry now than there were ten years ago when I started. I think this will be a huge motivation for the younger generation. Now it’s like the norm to start your own business and become an entrepreneur which is so exciting to see and I hope this empowers the younger generation in ways that I did not have growing up.”

On her relationship with beauty growing up

“It’s a bit ironic now that I think about it but growing up I was such a tomboy. I loved sports and never wore makeup. Beauty and cosmetics really weren’t a thing for me until the end of high school or early university. That’s when all my insecurities came about and I felt I needed to be more ‘girly’ to be liked. I don’t regret that journey; I think discovering makeup and allowing it to really be a confidence boost opened a lot of doors for me — other than Velour. It gave me the confidence to make new friends and build relationships which were so critical to me becoming who I am today. Now that I’m older, I define someone’s beauty by so much more than just their physical appearance. For me, I hope my physical appearance is the least interesting thing about me and that we all look beyond the physical traits when defining our own and someone else’s beauty.”

On the lessons she learned from her parents

“Growing up in an Asian household it was expected that I become an accountant, doctor or lawyer. My parents set pretty high standards for me and at a very young age they instilled in me the importance of working hard and relying on yourself to achieve what you want. While they had big dreams for me to become a lawyer, when I decided to pursue Velour full time, they, of course, were worried because they did not understand this new world of selling products online.

“But when I told them I was going to pursue it full time, they said one thing that’s kept me motivated all of these years: ‘You are an adult now and the decision is yours, and no matter the outcome, whether you fail or succeed, it is 100 percent in your own control; you have to live with that. So you better work harder than anyone you know if you want to succeed. If you fail, it’s okay, but fail knowing you tried your hardest and believing that you are capable enough to move on from it.’ For some reason that put so much more pressure on me to succeed, not for them, but for myself while empowering me and allowing me to see that sometimes failure happens. It was clear at that point, nobody else is going to benefit or suffer from this decision other than myself. So I was like ‘Wow, I’m all in and if I do this, it’s to prove to myself that I can.'”

On being independent from a young age

“Growing up in an Asian household I was always taught that in order to achieve my goals, I had to solve my own problems and work extremely hard. When my parents divorced, it only amplified that, as both my parents left my siblings and I to grow up pretty much on our own. So if I wanted to go to school, I had to work to make money to pay for it. Now looking back at where I am today, I am really grateful to have been put in that position at such a young age because it gave me this unwavering confidence. As a brand founder, I find myself [turning to those lessons] after all of these years. Of course, I built a strong team around me but if I want to succeed, that starts with me. I have to put in the work.”

On the advice she’d give her younger self

“Don’t be scared to carve your own path. Growing up, I had no role models to look up to and so it was daunting to do what I did, especially at such a young age. But don’t let that stop you. It’s okay to be the odd one out sometimes!”

On confidence

“For me, when I had insecurities growing up I used makeup — false lashes specifically — as a way to cover up those insecurities. At first it gave me this superficial confidence to make friends, to build relationships, to do things I probably wouldn’t have ever done if I didn’t cover up those insecurities. But eventually, with solid friendships and experiences, I build this true confidence in myself and you grew to appreciate who I was. So I always say, do whatever helps build the confidence, even if it means you need to start by covering up some insecurities, and work on yourself internally with the goal of being confident and 100 percent comfortable and happy in your own skin, as is. Eventually, those insecurities fall away when you’ve done enough internal confidence building.”

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Prince Harry Gets Candid in a New Podcast Interview with Dax Sheppard

Prince Harry is opening up once again about his mental health, the challenges of being a royal, and navigating his new California life with Meghan Markle. In a 90-minute interview on the popular Armchair Expert podcast, hosted by Dax Sheppard and Monica Padman, Prince Harry shared a lot, from serious issues like mental health to lighthearted tidbits like how his and Meghan’s new chickens are doing.

Prince Harry compares being a royal to “a mix of The Truman Show and being in a zoo”

When Prince Harry and Meghan Markle stepped away from their roles within the British royal family last year, the news was met with controversy and speculation. But during the couple’s revealing Oprah interview in March, they shared how the move was necessary for both of their mental health.

On the podcast, Sheppard brought this up to Harry, comparing being born into the royal family to The Truman Show — the 1998 film wherein the main character’s life is televised for the world to see against his knowledge. Prince Harry agreed, saying, “It’s a mix of The Truman Show and being in a zoo.”

When you are born into royalty, you don’t get to choose the lifestyle, it just happens to you, said Harry. “The biggest issue for me was that, being born into it, you inherit the risk. You inherit every element of it without a choice.”

As a member of the world’s most famous family, he said the U.K. media feel they have an “ownership” over him. “It’s a really dangerous place to be if you don’t have a choice,” he said, noting that this lifestyle also comes with an immense amount of privilege.

Therapy changed Prince Harry’s world view

Harry spoke candidly with Sheppard about his mental health journey, recalling the struggles he dealt with in his younger years.

“In my early twenties, it was the case of, ‘I don’t want this job, I don’t want to be here, I don’t want to be doing this. Look what it did to my mom. How am I ever going to settle down and have a wife and a family when I know it’s going to happen again? Because I know, I’ve seen behind the curtain, I’ve seen the business model, I know how this operation runs and how it works. I don’t want to be part of this,’” he said.

Throughout his life, Harry said feeling helpless has been his “Achilles heel.” He pointed to three specific times when this feeling hit him hardest. One time when he recalls feeling helpless was as a child with his mother, Princess Diana, in the back of a car that was being chased by paparazzi. The second was when he was flying an Apache Helicopter in Afghanistan during his time in the military. The third was with his wife, Meghan Markle — no other details given. These out-of-control moments were terrifying, he said, because they showed him that despite his privilege and influence, he couldn’t fix the problem at hand.

He began going to therapy after Markle encouraged him to seek help. “She could tell that I was hurting and that some of the stuff that was out of my control was making me really angry,” he said.

Prince Harry says that therapy helped him gain perspective on his situation. It helped him pluck his head out of the sand, he said, and made him realize he wanted to use his position to enact real change and help others.

 

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Meghan and Harry once had an incognito date…at a supermarket

Not all moments of the interview were serious, with Prince Harry sharing an adorable anecdote of the first time his future wife came to stay with him in England. “We met up in a supermarket in London, pretending that we didn’t know each other, so texting from the other end of the aisle,” he said. “There were people looking at me, giving me all these weird looks and coming up and saying hi, whatever, and I was there texting her saying, ‘Is this the right one?’ She goes, ‘No you want parchment paper. I’m like, OK, where’s the parchment paper?'”

Harry’s adjusting nicely to California life — and his and Meghan’s adopted chickens

Harry and Meghan’s now-famous chicken coop first caught our attention in their interview with Oprah. Their chickens were rescued from factory farms and when they first got them, the birds were “butt naked” with a few feathers growing from their chins and stomachs, he said. Prince Harry was delighted to share that they are now fully rehabilitated and have completely regrown their feathers. Happy day!

Harry said he feels “more free” in his new home of Santa Barbara, noting his appreciation for simple pleasures, like taking his two-year-old son Archie out on the back of his bicycle. “Living here now, I can actually lift my head and I feel different. My shoulders have dropped, so have [Meghan’s].”

Prince Harry’s forthcoming project with Oprah will focus on mental mental

 

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On May 21, Apple TV will release The Me You Can’t See, a docu-series co-created by Oprah and Prince Harry. The series will focus on mental health, and Harry said it gave him and Oprah the opportunity to have “honest conversations” with people around the world. In fact, in his conversation on Armchair Expert, Harry credits finding happiness to the feeling he gets from helping others.

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Ontario’s First Poet Laureate Randell Adjei on His Artistic Journey & the Power of Clothing

On April 28, Randell Adjei — spoken word artist, author, arts educator and founder of the Scarborough-based youth-oriented initiative Reaching Intelligent Souls Everywhere (R.I.S.E.) — was named the first Poet Laureate of Ontario. The unprecedented accolade is a moment in Adjei’s mounting legacy that’s been building since grade school.

“It’s been a journey,” Adjei reflects. “It’s been about facing adversity, intimately, and finding different avenues to overcome it.” Adjei is frank in divulging the hardships woven into his story, highlighting several arrests in his youth and also the alarming and pivotal time when he was jumped and mugged shortly after being named valedictorian of his high school and graduating as an Ontario Scholar. Adjei has been able to ultimately find a centre, and a purpose, through writing about these instances of upheaval. “When you’re born to do something, I don’t think anything or anyone can hold you back from your destiny.”

He identifies that one of the most crucial points in finding his path to healing and harmony through poetry came after switching schools in grade eight, upon which a new teacher revealed the magic of the medium to an impressionable Adjei. “It was an eye-opening experience,” he recalls. “[Poetry] gave me the opportunity to reflect on where I’d been, and what I was dealing with.”

 

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Adjei says that “he picked up and put down” the pen several times before it became his chosen avenue for change in both his life, and the lives of others. “I went from poetry to basketball,” he says. But not making the team in grade 11 pointed Adjei towards advocacy instead, and during a trip to an event hosted by the National Society of Black Engineers, during which writer and spoken word artist Boonaa Mohammed performed, Adjei was once again lured in by the pull of poetry. “I wrote my first spoken word piece right after that,” he notes.

It was another instance of seeing poetry performed live that sparked the idea within Adjei to pursue encouraging this potential in others. After attending a spoken word event at a church in Brampton, he was inspired to create an organization — one that was non-religious in its atmosphere and founded in his home base of Scarborough — that allowed young people to revel in the self-awareness, personal expression and sense of community central to creative practice.

Highlighting that it was hard to get the project off the ground because of a lack of resources, and even discouragement from some people in his inner circle, Adjei reflects on the experience with a sage outlook. “When you’re walking in your purpose, you end up in places you’re meant to be.” In this case, a trip to a youth resource centre to photocopy his resume ended up being a date with destiny for Adjei; while there, he struck up a conversation with an employee who, after hearing his idea for this creative education outlet, said that the centre was looking to start something similar itself.

After a few more months of planning, R.I.S.E. kicked off with promise in the spring of 2012; only a few months later, the deadly Danzig Street shooting occurred at a block party in Scarborough’s West Hill neighbourhood. “Three girls told me that they were going to go to the barbecue that day, but had come to R.I.S.E. instead,” Adjei says. “It opened my eyes to see that we had something special, and that we had to continue because when we [called it] a ‘safe space’, it wasn’t just the space itself that was safe. It was also preventing people from being in danger.”

 

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Speaking of spaces, Adjei goes on to muse about the realm of social media — undoubtedly the social sphere of choice for many involved in R.I.S.E. — and its impact on youth mental health. “I don’t remember young people speaking about [mental health] the way they are now,” he says. “On one hand, I think it’s beautiful because they’re more cognizant of why they’re feeling what they’re feeling. It wasn’t something we were talking about when I was that age. On the other hand, there’s social media — more and more, the concept of identity is based on the norm of how others see you online; your perception of yourself is based on someone else’s ability to press a button.”

This assertion brings to mind one of Adjei’s poetic works, “The Dash,” the central theme of which explores what happens in the time conveyed by the dash on one’s tombstone. “It’s easy for us to think we’re just here, that we’re just existing,” he says. “I think there’s a huge difference between living and existing. To merely exist is to scratch the surface of our potential. [The poem] highlights that we all have an opportunity to do something with our lives while we’re here; and this is something that I always share with young people — the idea of carving out the dash you’ll be remembered by and for.”

In addition to being remembered for founding R.I.S.E. and publishing his first poetry anthology, I Am Not My Struggles, in 2018, Adjei will also of course be known for becoming the inaugural Poet Laureate for Canada’s most populated province; and the designation has stirred many feelings within him.

“Something that I live by is [the idea that] to find yourself is to lose yourself in the service of others,” he says. “Stepping back and realizing that I’ve done a lot in this time frame, I feel elated and grateful. I’ve gained a clear sense of self through my work. And I can see how this accolade is not only going to continue to serve me but to help other creatives, elevating their profile and advocating for their art.” He also points to the significance of someone from Scarborough receiving such a prestigious nod. “There are so many people doing great work in Scarborough. It sucks that we’re [often] the last to get noticed. But it’s changing,” he says optimistically.

 

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To receive the title from members of the provincial parliament last month, Adjei chose to wear a Glen plaid suit, custom-made from Indochino — “My first custom suit,” he notes — with a bow tie and pocket square from Ghana fashioned from Kente. “The cloth is a big part of our tradition,” he says. “For a long time, I ran away from who I was, and being Ghanaian. Right now, being African is the coolest thing but as a kid I would be made fun of, even by people’s parents. It was scarring.” Adjei’s stylistic choice on such a momentous day reflects his current attitude of confidence and assuredness. “I wanted to represent who I am. [And] there are so many aspects to who I am; this [outfit] brought them together.”

A scroll through Adjei’s Instagram highlights many other attention-getting looks, including a tasseled tunic his friend, stylist Motaniel Ngina, dressed him in for an interview with the business organization Black Execs. Perhaps one of the most potent garments seen on his feed is a sweatshirt from the brand Live It Wear It, which has the words “Property of Black Power 1968” emblazoned on it; the date commemorates when Olympic athletes Tommie Smith and John Carlos boldly raised their fists in a salute during the national anthem while on the award podium at the games in Mexico.

“It was an iconic moment,” Adjei says. “[The sweatshirt] reminds folks that at the end of the day, we’ve overcome so much. And it’s a talking point — it’s meant to be provocative in a way.” Given the challenging and inspirational nature of all the facets of Adjei’s work, it’s an apt sartorial moment that we’re sure to see more of throughout his career.

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Hudson’s Bay Takes the 15 Percent Pledge

Hudson’s Bay is the first major department store in Canada to take the 15 Percent Pledge, committing that at least 15 percent of all new brands purchased by Hudson’s Bay for its stores and thebay.com will be owned or designed by Black, Indigenous and People of Colour (BIPOC).

This commitment will come into effect at the start of the Fall/Winter 2021 season, and will apply to brands sold both in stores and online. As part of the pledge, Hudson’s Bay will also be reviewing their internal business organization to ensure that by 2022, 15 percent or more of the design talent for their brands are BIPOC.

The 15 Percent Pledge was launched last May by Canadian designer Aurora James, founder of shoe and accessory brand Brother Vellies, in response to the police killings of George Floyd and Breonna Taylor. “For the first time, it seemed like people were finally beginning to pay attention to how systemic racism impacts every aspect of this country. We saw corporations issuing countless statements of support with Black Lives Matter, and this was an opportunity to bring companies to the table and offer them viable solutions to invest in Black businesses tailored to their specific needs,” James told FASHION in an interview earlier this year.

The initiative urges major retailers to allocate a minimum of 15 percent of their shelf space to BIPOC-owned brands, in pursuit of economic equality for racialized communities, by encouraging large corporations to take accountability for their role in systemic racism. “We represent 15% of the population and we need to represent 15% of your shelf space,” James wrote in an Instagram caption first announcing the pledge.

And today, the oldest department store in North America has announced their commitment to the 15 Percent Pledge.

 

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“As a Black business owner and proud Canadian, it’s encouraging to see this iconic brand take a pivotal step toward driving equity across retail,” said James about the announcement. “This is the first time Hudson’s Bay has made a commitment like this in its 350-year history, and we hope their dedication and leadership encourages other international retailers to support brands that are representative of their diverse populations.”

Many brands have already taken the pledge, including Crate & Barrel, Sephora, West Elm, Gap, and Canadian retailer Chapters Indigo.

Hudson’s Bay — which operates 88 locations in Canada — made the announcement to join the pledge not long after the launch of its Hudson’s Bay Charter for Change, a new platform that promises to invest $30 million into partner organizations with the goal of achieving equal opportunities for racialized Canadians through education, employment and empowerment.

 

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“As one of the country’s leading corporate citizens, Hudson’s Bay has a responsibility to drive equity and inclusion in Canada,” says Iain Nairn, president and CEO of Hudson’s Bay in a press release. “Our commitment through the Fifteen Percent Pledge is part of a holistic change to how we do business, and will hold us accountable to providing opportunity and delivering products that are representative of the diversity of our customers, associates and communities.”

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Texture Talk: The Best Nighttime Accessories for Curly Hair

No days off. It’s a motto that rings true for many, from professional athletes to honour roll students and entrepreneurs. It’s also the case for those of us with curly hair. It’s no secret that maintaining healthy, curly hair is indeed a time-consuming, full-time job, and neglecting your curls for even a single day can have less-than-ideal consequences.

And yes, this is still the case when you’re asleep. Catering to and protecting curly hair and protective styles at night is an essential part of keeping your hair hydrated and healthy. The friction between your head and your pillow creates the perfect ecosystem for snags, knots and tangles — all of which can be avoided by using the right hair covering.

Whether you’re wearing your hair in a bun, in locs or lush and free, we’ve rounded up the best nighttime accessories for curly hair that will help maintain your curls well into the night and give you frizz-free hair the next day.

Silk bonnets

Chances are if you have textured hair you have a bonnet sitting on your bedside table somewhere. If you don’t, here’s why you should get one. Not only do silk and satin bonnets help to make your hair styles look fresher for longer, but they actually help to lock in moisture. As an added bonus, they happen to be beautiful, too. Available in a variety of different sizes and gorgeous prints and colours, they can also help add a pop of colour to your bedtime outfit.

Tikka Bonnet, $30, CeeCee’s Closet

Kumina Queen Bonnet, $25, Peace Crown’d

Satin pillowcases

Depending on the way that you’ve styled your hair, protecting it with a satin bonnet or scarf may just not be practical. Enter: silk or satin pillowcases. Similar to bonnets made of the same materials, these pillowcases can help reduce frizz and retain moisture. Traditional cotton pillowcase will actually absorb the moisture in your hair, leaving it much drier in the morning than it was when you went to sleep. Even worse, the friction caused between your hair and cotton pillowcases can cause snags, tangles and every curly girl’s worst nightmare — the one strand knot. Still not convinced? An added bonus is that not only are satin pillowcases great for your hair, but they’re also beneficial to your skin as well. Not only can a lack of friction between your head and the pillow prevent breakage, but it also helps to prevent fine lines on your face. It’s a win-win situation.

Pure Silk Pillowcase by SLIP, $119, Nordstrom

Silk scarf

Noticed a trend yet? Silk and satin are must-have nighttime accessories for curly hair. Like a silk bonnet or pillowcase, silk scarves can also help to prevent your hair from losing moisture and breakage. One added benefit of the scarf, however, is its ability to keep your edges intact, too.

St. Maarten Pre-Folded Charmeuse LuxStretch Satin Scarf, $25, Glow by Daye

Silk hair ties

Whether you have kinky curls or beachy waves, one thing we all want to do before going to sleep is make sure that our hair is out of our face. But many of the hair ties we use — especially the ones with the metal clasps holding them together — can also cause breakage, especially for those of us with fragile curls and coils. Not to mention those annoying creases they leave after hours of being in your hair. Using a silk or satin hair tie can help to minimize that creasing from happening and prevent your curls and coils from snagging.

Slip Pure Silk 6-Pack Skinny Hair Ties, $53, Nordstrom

Durags

Like other nighttime accessories for curly hair, durags are a great way to help hair retain moisture. Their primary use is to prevent coils and curls from darting upwards and can assist in creating coveted waves. They are especially helpful in maintaining protective styles like braids and twists and keeping them frizz-free, thanks to their ability to secure hair in place. Available in an endless variety of finishes and colours and popular among men and women, durags are a versatile and practical staple.

Coal Durag, $35, Slk World

Bonnets for locs and longer protective styles

There are few hairstyles that display the beauty and resilience of textured hair the way that dreadlocks do. However, as they grow in length, they can become increasingly difficult to protect at night. Similar struggles can befall those wearing long braids and faux locs, among a variety of other styles. Many bonnets, like this one from Lily Silk, have extra material so that you can fit all of your hair into them without folding or fear of it popping out at night, thanks to the elastic band which provides extra security.

Elegant Night Silk Bonnet, $45, Lily Silk

Silk hair wrap

These hair wraps (or turbans) have become increasingly popular for wear, both at night and during the day. They allow you to protect your hair with maximum moisture retention and minimal effort.

Esme Hair Wrap, $86, Silke London

Missed our last Texture Talk column? Click here.

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