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Friday, April 30, 2021

Want To Start Consigning Clothes? Here Are the Top Tips From Canadian Experts

So, you’re tackling your spring to-do list and confronting your closet. Before you cull your pieces and approach the resale market, here’s what Canadian consignment experts want you to know.

Assess condition and cache

Is what you want to sell a viable item? Here’s what “gently worn” actually means: Clothing must be in good to excellent condition, intact and free of pills, pulls and stains. At Toronto’s I Miss You Vintage and I Miss You Man luxury resale shops, footwear must be nearly new or brand new and from no more than five seasons before. Garments should also be freshly cleaned before being consigned; most resellers steam intake items and use UV wands to disinfect purses and jewellery. (Accessories typ­ically fare better in the consignment world, depend­ ing on their wear.) When consigning, find out if you’re responsible for any additional third ­party charges, such as dry cleaning or authentication, on high­ end goods.

Stay on schedule

Get items in at the top of the season. Resellers follow the same timeline as new retail to stay competitive and try to realize the full price of a piece before markdowns. Joy Mauro, founder of British Columbia-­based luxury retailer Turnabout, starts taking spring/summer items in mid­ January and fall/winter pieces around August. Some resellers prefer even more advance timing. “Bring me your summer in December,” says VSP Consignment’s Britt Rawlinson. “We like to prepare marketing around delivering a new season, and you’ll get the best sell ­through. But we always say ‘If you’ve got something good, bring it to us.’ Certain pieces and brands will always have a high saleability rate, and the time frame is less import­ ant.” And with the rise of seasonless dressing, that’s becoming even more true.

Keep up with trends

With WFH dressing being firmly ensconced now, some resellers report that they’ve stopped taking in business suiting; blazers are a major exception, and they’re actually more popular now than ever. The biggest casualty of the pandemic comfort shift? Surprisingly, it’s not gowns. High heels are the hardest­ hit category, says Mauro, adding, “Even our Louboutins are struggling.” But contemporary designers like Isabel Marant and Zimmermann don’t linger on the rack very long, notes Ashley Greeff, Turnabout’s Vancouver fashion buyer and resale manager, with Rag & Bone and John Varvatos being strong sellers on the menswear side. “With luxe, you can’t go wrong with Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Hermès, and YSL is very hot right now,” she says. Ditto current Gucci — especially anything that’s excessively logoed.

Understand the market

“From an investment perspective, we’re always going to see the best returns from the big names,” says Lauryn Vaughn, founder and CEO of Calgary luxury reseller The Upside, quickly rhyming off Mackage, Moncler, Tiffany & Co. and Canada Goose as bestsellers. But she’s also seeing a surge of interest in contemporary luxury labels like Alice + Olivia — brands that “speak to what people are wearing now: a blazer and a cute top with sneakers, the go­to business outfit at home.”

That said, most resellers cherry­pick designer fare in apprais­als, while a selection of consignment businesses focus more on mass brands. Only a few do both. “We serve a purpose for anybody who wants to clear out their closet and just not deal with any of it again,” Mauro says of why Turnabout welcomes everything from Lululemon and Club Monaco to Brunello Cucinelli and Balenciaga. Beyond that, any rejected consign­ment items (“like H&M or Joe Fresh, because the resale value just isn’t there”) can be donated to Turnabout’s not ­for ­profit community store, where all proceeds from sales go to its charity partner, Dress for Success.

Shop around

“In the client­ consignor relationship, every seller is a business partner of ours, and we’re working for them,” says Rawlinson. When considering which consignor to work with, pay attention to its marketing. Does it have a newsletter? Is it active on social media? Are the clothes well photographed and styled? How attractive and user ­friendly is its website (if it has one)? “We’re a service industry,” says Mauro, describing her own investment in a dedicated content studio and digital marketing team. The Fashion Edit, helmed by stylist Zeina Esmail, offers assets that capture the haute vibe of one of her editorials. Additionally, reputable resellers are transparent about their commission rates and payment timelines and make guidelines accessible, with directions on what they do and don’t accept. Some resellers, like Montreal’s My Luxury Closet, fea­ture online templates for uploading descriptions and photos to speed up the assessment process; others, like Second Edition, in Moncton, N.B., have a more modest web presence but are strong on their personable in­ store experience.

Find the right fit

Each reseller (and its Instagram feed) has a point of view, and if you would shop there, chances are your stuff will sell there. Browse websites or drop by the phys­ical location (pandemic permitting) to get a sense of the assort­ment. It’s not just about the products a consignor carries and its terms of agreement; it’s also about the vibe. The retail area of The Upside occupies just a fraction of its 420­ square­ metre logistics headquarters, but Vaughn says that even more than its sophisticated website, it’s the appealingly warm industrial space — and its sleek consignment bar — that cements the upscale consignment experience for both sellers and shoppers. And what some resellers lack in scale they make up for in spec­ificity. Vancouver reseller Faulkner has a niche with avant­ garde European design, Japanese labels and vintage workwear; size­ inclusive Consign Your Curves, in Guelph, Ont., specializes in sizes 12 to 32+; and e­tailer Canary deals in designer jewellery names like John Hardy and David Yurman.

 

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Know your terms

When you meet with a consignor, be savvy about the commission scale. Your share is a percentage of the realized selling price (usually anywhere from 30 to 60 per cent), but as the season progresses, articles head to the sale racks. Find out about the discount scale and schedule as well as the timeline of payouts. And be aware that some resellers offer layaway terms, which may delay payment. Don’t be shy in negotiating a better commission — up to 80 per cent — or even a direct buyout. But, likewise, it’s important to temper your expec­tations. “Don’t be precious,” says Mauro. “There’s Facebook Marketplace or Poshmark if you want to do your own thing.”

Plan for seasons to come

Prepare ahead of time if possible, starting the moment you buy. Keep all size tags and labels inside the garment intact. For shoes and accessories, hold on to the box and/or dust bag. And think about resale value when mulling over a new purchase. After all, closing the loop on circular fashion is getting closer all the time. Vaughn is pushing for more participa­tion from the fashion industry early in the cycle, and this spring, The Upside is introducing integrated software that will help encourage and ease shoppers into the resale mindset. When you buy a new garment with one of its partner brands (like contemporary Canadian label Smythe), it locks in a guaranteed buyback price that’s valid if you consign the item there within eight months.

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You Have To See Lina Bradford’s Shoe Collection To Believe It

To describe Lina Bradford as a collector is an understatement. The New York-based DJ and talk show host’s apartment is stuffed to the gills with compilations of all kinds, from an army of Barbie dolls that she’s been holding on to since her childhood to decades’ worth of shoes — most of them high heels — by designers including her bestie Brian Atwood, Christian Louboutin and Vancouver’s John Fluevog.

So, what’s a better way to characterize this diva whose digital chat show is launching its third season this month — someone who owns a dozen of Vivienne Westwood’s Buffalo hats in an array of colours and snapped up a host of pieces from Alessandro Michele’s first Gucci collection without hesitation?

lina bradford collections
Photography by Tatiana Katkova. “I’ve always been a chameleon,” says Bradford, who was consistently named “Best dressed” during her school years. “fashion is about expression and fun — and how you feel from one day to the next.”
lina bradford collections
Photography by Tatiana Katkova. Talking about why the “alternative” aesthetic of vivienne Westwood resonated with her from an early age, Bradford says: “Being a new Yorker and growing up in Manhattan, it was synonymous. i was a young artist in the club scene, and everybody was rocking Westwood.”

“I’m an archivist,” Bradford says when discussing the diversity of her collections, adding that despite the volume, her space doesn’t feel “hoarder-y.” And of course she keeps her pieces organized and well maintained. “When you love something, you’re always going to take good care of it and cherish it.”

lina bradford collections
Photography by Tatiana Katkova
lina bradford collections
Photography by Tatiana Katkova. “He changed the game,” Bradford says about alessandro Michele’s star turn at gucci. naturally, she has a mix of the brand’s elevated Marmont loafers.

She has plenty to tend to, though. There’s the volume of vintage pieces — she owns upwards of 70 garments by Diane Freis, including the charming printed jumpsuit she donned for this shoot to coordinate with a pair of purple Atwood sandals — not to mention her staggering selection of So Kate styles from Louboutin.

lina bradford collections
Photography by Tatiana Katkova
lina bradford collections
Photography by Tatiana Katkova. Christian Louboutin’s cheerful chevron cork so Kate stilettos perfectly coexist with a stack of books about Barbie, one of Bradford’s style icons.

She began wearing the designer’s shoes after he invited her to his Parisian atelier two decades ago, when she was becoming a well-known name on the DJ circuit. Initially, Bradford wore the Pigalle design, but she then gave them all away to make room for her new obsession, the slender So Kate. “I love a severe heel,” she enthuses.

But the question begs to be asked: How does Bradford manage to make it through a night of partying while decked out in towering stilettos or prodigious platforms?

“People ask me that all the time,” she says, laughing, and goes on to credit her years as a trained dancer (ballet, modern and more) for allowing her to flex her feet for hours at a time. “I’m just so mentally and physically ready to be in a pump,” she says. “I have to prepare myself to be in a flat. That’s a chore!”

Photography by Tatiana Katkova. Hair and makeup, James Toribio for MAC.

The post You Have To See Lina Bradford’s Shoe Collection To Believe It appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Elliot Page Tells Oprah About His Most Joyful Moments Since Coming Out

Canadian actor and activist Elliot Page is opening about his life since coming out as transgender.

Page is set to give his first on-camera interview with Oprah Winfrey on the series The Oprah Conversation, which will be available to stream on AppleTV+ on April 30, and the streaming service has dropped a moving sneak peek ahead of time.

In the sit down, Oprah asks the Oscar-nominated actor, who currently stars in Netflix’s The Umbrella Academy, what has brought him the most joy since sharing the news publicly.

“Goodness, what has brought me the most joy?” Page responds, taking a moment to think.

“It’s getting out of the shower and the towel’s around your waist and you’re looking at yourself in the mirror and you’re like, ‘There I am.’ And I’m not having the moment where I’m panicked. I’m not having all of these little moments that used to be…” he continues, getting choked up. “It’s… being able to touch my chest and feel comfortable in my body for the… probably the first time.”

Visibly emotional, Page tells Oprah that they are “tears of joy.”

 

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In another preview clip from the interview, Page opened up to Oprah about the moment he decided to go public with the news. “I was expressing this to people in my life before posting that letter … I wanted a moment to become comfortable in myself and to be able to get to that point,” he says. “With this time we’re in right now, with horrible backlash [that] we’re seeing towards trans people, particularly trans youth, it felt really imperative to [come out]. It felt important and selfish for myself and my own wellbeing and mental health. And also with this platform that I have, the privilege that I have, knowing the pain, the difficulties and struggles I faced in my life — let alone what so many other people are facing — it felt crucial and important for me to share that.”

 

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Page first announced that he was trans in December of last year. “I can’t begin to express how remarkable it feels to finally love who I am enough to pursue my authentic self,” the Halifax-born actor wrote in a letter posted to social media. “I love that I am trans. And I love that I am queer. And the more I hold myself close and fully embrace who I am, the more I dream, the more my heart grows and the more I thrive.”

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Texture Talk: The Twist Out Products You Need For Perfect Results Every Time

One of the most beautiful parts of textured hair is its versatility, and ability to change shape and hold a wide array of styles. But there’s one particular style that, while beloved, can be polarizing due to the trial and error required to get it just right. Yes, we’re talking about the twist out.

In theory, it sounds super simple: section hair, twist, unravel and marvel at the bouncy luscious curls that (supposedly) await you. However, for those of us that have tried and failed — many times — we know that it’s usually not that simple. Sometimes you’re left with perfectly defined curls but more often than not, that’s not the case.

Below, we’ve broken down how to achieve a perfect twist out every time, via a step-by-step guide and a list of the twist out products that will guide you through each step of the styling process.

Start with a clean slate

A great twist out is all about curl definition, and the quest for good curl definition begins on wash day. Using an especially moisturizing shampoo and conditioner like the Monday Haircare Moisture and Hydration Shampoo and Conditioner (which are chock full of hydrating and strengthening ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil and hydrolyzed rice protein) prior to starting the twist out process will help to give your hair a great head start.

For an extra moisture boost, try using a hydration mask or treatment, like the Shea Moisture Manuka Honey and Mafura Oil Masque that not only gives the hair a dose of intense hydration, but the shea butter and baobab oils help lock all that moisture in.

Divide and conquer

Begin by dividing your already damp hair into multiple sections — no less than four. Starting off with damp hair will not only help make especially coarse and thick hair a little more manageable but will also help in the absorption of your products. Don’t worry about perfecting the parts of each section; the uneven parts will help with the blending process when unravelling your twists.

Once you have your hair in manageable sections, the next step is to make sure each and every section is tangle-free. Using a detangling spray like the Wizard Detangling Hair Primer by Amika along with a wide-toothed comb or a detangling brush like the Denman Cushion Brush will help to ensure optimal curl definition and a knot-free style.

Once hair is in tangle-free sections, use a leave-in conditioner to kick the moisturizing process up a notch. Using your fingers, rake a moisture rich leave-in conditioner like the Coconut Milk Leave-In Conditioner by CurlShoppe through each section to ensure that it is evenly distributed. Its lightweight yet moisture-rich formula makes it the perfect base for a twist out, since it helps to keep hair moisturized without weighing it down.

Follow up your leave-in with something that will provide curl definition. An oldie but a goodie is the SheaMoisture Coconut Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie. Its star ingredients, shea butter and coconut oil, easily penetrate the hair follicle for added moisture, while the neem oil adds shine and definition. Begin at the ends and work this product through to your roots. And don’t be shy with the amount — this is definitely not a step you want to skimp on.

This next step is definitely optional, but there are some who will swear by the effectiveness of adding a mousse, like DevaCurl’s Frizz-Free Volumizing Foam, to your twist out routine. Those with type 3 hair may not see a difference but those with type 4 hair who may need a helping hand with defining their curls will be glad they added it.

Hold on

Now it’s time to hold that curl into place. Curl definition is crucial, but making sure your curls stay defined is where the real challenge lies. The Adwoa Beauty Baomint Moisturizing Curl Defining Gel is good a product to rely on if you’re having this concern. Formulated with pumpkin seed oil, prickly pear oil and sweet almond oil, this cream-based gel helps to define and hold curls without the usual stiffness and white flakes that many traditional gels are known for. Its unique oil combination helps to lock in moisture and shine while improving the strength and elasticity of your hair. Apply it from root to tip for best results, while taking extra care to not neglect the ends of your hair.

Twist and shout

By now you should have heavily moisturized and defined curls, so it’s time to twist! Pay attention to the size of each section, ensuring the sections are the same size, which will help to create a more uniformed appearance once they have been taken out. Tie them down with your favourite headscarf and leave it on to dry overnight. After all your twists have completely dried, it’s time for the moment of truth: the take down.

The best way to unravel each twist with minimal frizz is by using an oil product to separate each curl while also taming flyaways and frizz. You can try misting your entire head with an oil-based spray to help soften your twists, or if you’d like to give every curl a little extra TLC, try the Adwoa Beauty Baomint Protect and Shine Oil Blend. Use a dime-sized amount between your fingers before unravelling each twist and separating your curls.

Protect and refresh

Twist outs are not a “one and done” hairstyle. Chances are if you’re going through the hassle of completing a twist out you’re going to want to keep the style for more than just a few days. To ensure that your style lasts, tie your hair up in a loose high bun — emphasis on loose — before bed. After taking it down in the morning, use a moisturizing and hydrating spray like the Coconut Aloe Intense Moisture Replenishing Spray by London Ivy to give curls an extra boost of moisture and refresh any that may have become dehydrated over time.

Missed our last Texture Talk column? Click here.

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Kate Middleton’s Decade of Style and the Soft Power in Her Fashion Choices

November 16, 2010 is a day that will go down in history. After seven years of dating, Prince William and Kate Middleton announced they were engaged. Finally! And for the fashion world, it was the day the “Kate effect” was born. Within minutes of appearing at the photocall, Catherine’s blue Issa London wrap dress sold out in the UK — and it went on to sell out in 43 countries including the United States. Such has been the case for so many Kate Middleton outfits since.

Kate gave her first press interview that day, sitting down for the traditional engagement interview with ITV’s Tom Bradby, and she didn’t give another one for nine years. But like Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana and countless people in politics (hey, Michelle Obama), Kate’s clothes tell us her story. Her engagement dress established who the Duchess of Cambridge would be as a royal: perfectly appropriate, full of symbolic gestures — the sapphire blue colour of the Issa dress was a subtle nod to Princess Diana’s own engagement outfit — and always flying the fashion flag for Britain. “I think she’s acutely aware of the power she wields which is why we see her choose the labels she wears so carefully,” Bethan Holt, author of The Duchess of Cambridge: A Decade of Modern Royal Style, tells FASHION.

There is a message behind every blouse, necklace, handbag and pair of shoes Kate wears. And as the duchess reaches a decade of marriage (and royal duty) on April 29, her power is becoming clearer than ever. Here, we dive a little deeper into those fashion choices and the story they tell.

Kate wears a fascinator by British designer Vivien Sheriff. Photograph by Getty Images.

Soft diplomacy at its finest

“Kate is a future queen and wife and mother to two future kings so she chooses outfits which encompass that,” says Holt. “They’re elegant, regal and epitomize how seriously she takes her role by supporting British designers and symbolizing the royal family’s soft power.” Shortly after her engagement, Kate had her first day on the job at a royal engagement in North Wales. She somehow had to show the world that this commoner was ready to one day be queen consort. A fascinator was obviously the solution. Designed by British designer Vivien Sheriff, the fascinator featured military badges, including the Royal Welch Fusiliers, of which Prince Charles is Colonel-in-Chief. It was a subtle nod to the family she was joining and its role supporting the Armed Forces.

But Catherine’s most symbolic fashion moment was undoubtedly her Alexander McQueen wedding dress. The royal family’s job is to “strengthen national unity” and Kate weaved that duty into her gown’s bodice and skirt. Beautifully intertwined in the lace were roses, thistles and shamrocks representing England, Scotland and Ireland respectively, as well as daffodils for Wales. This might be the most stunning example of soft diplomacy.

Kate Middleton wears a $90 Zara dress to leave for her honeymoon. Photography by Getty Images.

The Duchess of the high street

When the Duchess of Cambridge left Buckingham Palace after her wedding, she walked across the palace lawn in a $90 Zara dress. “She knows that people love to see her as ‘normal,’” Holt says. The duchess joined the royal family at a unique time, explains Holt. The Queen and Diana didn’t have to contend with the internet, and fans being able to identify what they’re wearing (and where to buy it) within minutes. Fashion sleuths have quickly found Kate’s $65 Topshop maternity dress, $30 Gap pants and $8 Zeen earrings (among many other items).“There was also this growing expectation for the royal family to be more ‘relatable’ when Kate came onto the scene so it made sense for her to make wearing [the] high street her ‘thing.’”

Kate wears a tweed Erdem dress to an event at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Photography by Getty Images.

A new work uniform

In 2018, we saw a new Duchess of Cambridge. Fresh from her third maternity leave, she sashayed into the Victoria & Albert Museum in a tweed Erdem dress with an edgy neckline, zippy hemline, bold earrings and velvet shoes. Holt says there was definitely an “I’m back and better than ever” feel to Catherine’s look that we never saw after her previous mat leaves. “It felt like a signal that she was ready and willing to take on more royal responsibilities, to step into her future and to use fashion very cleverly to do that,” Holt explains.

Over the following months we saw small tweaks to Kate’s wardrobe — there were still coat dresses, clutches and her beloved nude pumps, but she added wide-legged trousers, handbags and block heels. It was a spin on the uniform she frequently wore to royal engagements for her early years’ work, showing how seriously she took her duties (and how seriously she wanted to be taken). “The duchess is astute enough to understand that glamour is a huge part of her appeal and that she can harness that to make even more impact in her work,” Holt explains. Say, the glamour of a duchess arriving at an event in a Gucci blouse, purposely worn backwards. The media went wild and her picture (and her work supporting children) was on front pages everywhere. “She was reluctant to embrace this too much in the early years of her marriage but now she’s learnt to use it for good,” Holt says.

Kate wears a necklace with her children’s initials by small Irish brand All the Falling Stars. Photography by Getty Images.

Flying the flag for Britain (and shopping local)

From her very first day as a royal-to-be, Kate has supported British fashion (remember the Issa dress?). And she’s done a damn good job of it, boosting the British fashion economy by $1 billion a year. But like the rest of us, she’s changed her shopping habits over the last year. “She’s joining the huge movement towards shopping small and local which has been fuelled by lockdowns,” Holt says. In September 2020, Kate stepped out wearing a new necklace with each of her kids’ initials. The piece was made by Irish brand All the Falling Stars, who had orders from around the world for the necklace Kate wore. The designer has had to enlist help from her family and friends to help with shipping orders! Later in 2020, the duchess debuted a new leather bag by Grace Han and the Kate effect struck again. Sales doubled for the London-based designer. “It’s a combination of her ever-growing confidence and her consciousness that she can really elevate the brands that she wears,” Holt says.

Our future Princess of Wales

The next decade poses a new duty for Catherine — becoming the Princess of Wales when her husband becomes King of England. Does that mean a new style? “I don’t think there will be radical changes but we might see the duchess adopt more and more of a uniform, like the Queen,” says Holt. And truly, who better to emulate in fashion and duty than Her Majesty?

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Thursday, April 29, 2021

Prabal Gurung Just Launched a Home Decor Collection on Etsy

“The easiest thing to do is stay neutral,” says New York-based Nepalese designer Prabal Gurung. “Especially when it comes to design, where we think neutral palettes are so chic. That’s what we’ve been fed — but who tells us that?”

On the surface, Gurung is talking about his new bright and cheery limited-edition home decor collection (his first ever), made in collaboration with Etsy. But, like with everything the celeb favourite (he can count Michelle Obama, Kate Middleton and Anne Hathaway as fans) does, there are so many more layers. “Colour can evoke joy, love, resistance and strength. We are stronger in colour,” he says. “To anyone who is afraid of bringing colour into their lives, I would say: Have courage. Have heart. Because when you let colour into your world, you are opening a door to a new experience, a new story. And when you open up your heart that way, your empathy levels go up a notch, and you will understand and see the world much differently and in a far more interesting way.”

A simple way to do that is through the aforementioned collab, which is available on Etsy as of today. Inspired by his many travels, Gurung, also a long-time advocate for greater diversity and inclusion, partnered with other Etsy sellers to create a line that celebrates wanderlust and joy — and is capable of transforming any space. Starting at about $36, customers will be able to shop neon taper candles, fun graphic planters and delicate pastel dishware. FASHION caught up with Gurung to talk about the collection, a love of travel and the power of memories.

How did you settle on the wanderlust theme?

I’ve travelled all my life. I was born in Singapore, have lived in Nepal, India, London, Australia, and have continued to travel. I always say that I consider myself a curious global Nomad — I go to a lot of different places to learn about history, culture and discover new things so that I can make my own particular personal history of that particular moment. It brings me joy, and I think travelling truly makes a person empathetic — not direct from an airport to a hotel, but real travel can really open up your mind, and your heart and make you realize that we all are more similar than different.

And so I wanted this collection to have that idea of wanderlust and curiosity, and absolute joy and understanding of each other. I enjoy hosting, and when I think about my dinner table, the people who join me are usually a diverse cast of individuals — they’ll all bring something special to the table, from a point of view, a travel story, kind of a magical energy by the virtue of who they are. [These dinner parties are] always colourful, interesting, fun and full of laughter and really substantive conversations. We all join together over like a beautiful meal, sharing tales of our personal journeys and creating memories. I wanted to create something that would be a part of those intimate moments. Some might consider these pieces inanimate objects without any life, but every time you look at these pieces, I want them to evoke memories.

Home decor is new for you. Why is now the right moment to branch out?

I’ve always been interested in it — I’ve always decorated my own houses, from finding vintage furniture, dishes and stuff I really love. And, don’t forget, I grew up in Nepal and India, where the craftsmanship and [work of] artisans are incredibly, incredibly elevated and the talent has been handed down generation after generation. I wanted to do this collection at this particular moment because in this past year, what we’ve realized is that our homes are not just the places where we sleep and relax. Home is where we rejuvenate, where we bring people together — in challenging or happy times — and create history and moments. I want what I create to be a part of that. Even with my ready-to-wear, that’s what I do, I think about how what I create will become part of a women’s wardrobe and part of a story.

To share this experience and collaborate with these other [Etsy] artisans has been really cathartic and exciting, and I wanted that same [feeling] for the customers also. My mother has always told me: “A lot of people can cook food, but can they really cook it with love?” When food is cooked with love, you can feel that it’s nourishing. And that’s how I was brought up — everything was intentional and with purpose. That’s what this collection is; it tells my story and I hope that it will help others create their own.

Speaking of the other Etsy artisans you worked with, what was the collaboration process like?

It was a lot of conversation back and forth, but also more of an understanding — they understand my aesthetic and I have a respect for what they do. We had to find common ground so that we could tell the same story, which is why selecting the artisans that we’d work with was very important. I wanted to know their history, what they do and why they do it. I loved their passion. I thought it was going to be difficult, but it was really easy, because we all chose to work together and developed this mutual respect. Now, [I get to] highlight the work that they do and share my mic with them.

What are some of the personal memories that the collection evokes for you?

The colour-washed dishes — they almost looked tie-dyed, but it’s a hand wash — are really beautiful. They remind me of being back in Nepal. They have this hand-held quality of human touch; when you look at them see someone working on them, which I really, really love. And there are also floral dishes, which were inspired by my 10-year anniversary collection, which was really special to me because I had created the prints on my own. That collection has so many memories attached to it; it was attached to my identity and who I am in this country and it was a celebration of my American dream, to be completely honest. I wanted to bring that into people’s homes too.

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Fashion Entrepreneur Summer Ruddock-Ellis on Her Sustainable Wardrobe Journey

I got my first part-time job at a Sirens store when I was 15 and living in Brampton, Ont. Though I worked at Square One Shopping Centre in Mississauga, I rarely shopped there, instead taking all my hard-earned money to local thrift stores.

One of my first experiences thrifting was when I was a preteen; I went to Value Village with my mom out of sheer curiosity and after having a difficult time at mass fashion stores because I couldn’t find pieces that fit properly or that reflected my personal style. That single visit opened up my imagination and a willingness to experiment. I would frequent Value Village, The Salvation Army and Goodwill, sometimes taking the same bus to get to the three different shops in one day. I could create any outfit I wanted, and most items cost under $15.

Thrifting gave me access to pieces I couldn’t acquire any other way. I got my first designer items second-hand before I was ever able to purchase a high-end piece at the retail price. I remember once finding a Ports 1961 wool dress at the Talize location in Brampton and being amazed because I knew the brand had a boutique in Toronto’s prestigious Yorkville neighbourhood and I had seen its runway shows online. I was so taken aback to be able to find something of that quality and reverence to me at that time. Clothing — an important medium for self-expression — was accessible at the thrift store, and the possibilities felt endless.

summer ruddock-ellis sustainable wardrobe
Photography by Julien Bowry.

When I moved to Ottawa for my undergrad studies, I developed an even deeper interest in thrifting, enticed by the different things you can discover in such stores, including home decor. I furnished my entire dorm with previously owned housewares, and this was another defining moment as I realized the versatility of shopping second-hand for everyday life.

Fellow students often asked where I had gotten my clothing or if I was in the fashion program (even though Carleton University doesn’t have one). They would never have guessed I was studying economics and finance.

Since so many people were curious about, and in awe of, what I was wearing, I started curating and selling the items I was buying from thrift stores to my classmates. I did my first pop-up out of my dorm room, and upon returning to Brampton after a third-year transfer to York University, I continued to host pop-ups in my backyard as people became increasingly interested in my aesthetic and the array of items I had found for them.

summer ruddock-ellis sustainable wardrobe
Photography courtesy of Summer Ruddock-Ellis

In the suburbs, “curated” thrift stores did not exist, so the hunt was difficult—but also rewarding. I would search for anything I saw that looked similar to styles I had seen in magazines and on websites like Style.com. I loved finding pieces from throw-back streetwear brands like FUBU, Baby Phat and Enyce — all nostalgic labels I had wanted to buy but couldn’t afford when I was younger.

Since I haven’t always been able to find exactly what I was searching for — either for my customers or for my own wardrobe — I have taken to altering pieces by dyeing, patching and cutting them so they can have a new look and a new life. Natural fibres like wool, cotton, linen and cashmere are the best items to take a pair of scissors to (and to transform using natural dyes). I love fraying knits, creating an unfinished hem on denim and chopping raw silk. I’ll normally cut something, dye it and then put it through a wash or two as I prefer a lived-in feel to my clothing.

summer ruddock-ellis sustainable wardrobe
Photography courtesy of Summer Ruddock-Ellis

My go-to dyes for colouring pieces are from food scraps and other organic matter. I’ve been a vegetarian for over 10 years, and anything from my waste bin will do — beets and avocado skins, turmeric and sorrel. I sometimes pull things directly from my backyard, gathering dandelions, pomegranates or wild berries. It’s all about testing pigments to see what works, and the majority of how I approach altering clothing is experimental. I take a lot of inspiration from my Jamaican heritage and the dancehall sensibility; much of the clothing in that scene is DIY — garments revised to emulate something someone saw on television, for example, but that wasn’t accessible for them to buy.

This practice of mending and modifying existing pieces is an interest that has grown stronger in recent years as I have taken a harder look at my own consumption habits and considered how to improve them. But despite the negative implications of fashion consumption — from garment-worker exploitation to landfills (and, increasingly, thrift stores) full of fast-fashion pieces — clothing has ultimately allowed me to navigate the world the way I choose.

I encourage others to be open to wearing not-new, upcycled and altered pieces through my partnership with the brand 4YE; I helped launch its Rework collection in 2019. I also run a second-hand retail business called By Pseudonym, and through this platform, I can share ideas about extending the life cycle of clothes in artistic and engaging ways.

 

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Right now, I’m working with my friend, Sydné B. Wright of Ethereal, on an upcycling collaboration. She’s more educated about the practice of repurposing clothing than I am, and, together, we’ll be dyeing knitwear and updating the silhouettes of pieces in By Pseudonym’s inventory. Our reference for these items comes in part from the Fall 1993 Comme des Garçons collection — one that presented pieces with knits and lighter fabrics fused together.

Looking back at my life through the lens of clothes, I see that I’ve been able to use them to show the world who I am and what I believe in. The name By Pseudonym comes from the idea that through style, you can create a different version of yourself — perhaps even of the person you want to be.

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Remembering Kate Middleton’s Wedding Dresses, 10 Years Later

A decade ago, Kate Middleton stunned royal watchers around the world when she stepped out onto the red carpet leading into Westminster Abbey and finally revealed the first full look at her wedding dress — a closely guarded (but oft speculated about) secret until that moment. Now, in honour of Kate and Prince William’s 10th anniversary, we’re looking back at all the intricate details of the iconic gown that has since inspired many a bride.

Photography by Getty Images

Who designed Kate Middleton’s wedding dress? 

English designer Sarah Burton, creative director of beloved English fashion house Alexander McQueen, was responsible for the gown. It featured a lace bodice, high lace collar, long sleeves and satin skirts. According to the palace, Kate opted for the label because of “the beauty of its craftsmanship,” and wanted her dress to “combine tradition and modernity with the artistic vision that characterizes Alexander McQueen’s work.”

Kate also reportedly worked quite closely with Burton on the delicate design of the dress, which was inspired by traditional arts and crafts while “giving the cut and the intricate embellishment a distinctive, contemporary and feminine character.”

What materials were used to make Kate’s wedding dress? 

Naturally, mostly locally sourced white and ivory satin gazar — all carefully handpicked by Burton and her team — were used to craft Kate’s Grace Kelly-esque dress. More notably, a blend of English Cluny and French Chantilly laces was used and worked into the gown using the Irish Carrickmacross lace-making technique, which is an Irish needlework tradition that dates back to the 1820s. The entire lace appliqué (seen on the bodice and skirt of the gown) was hand-made by the Royal School of Needlework. According to the BBC, the lace calls back to Princess Diana’s own wedding dress, which also featured Carrickmacross lace.

Tell me more about the intricate lace work on Kate’s dress. 

As mentioned, staff, grads and even students of the Royal School of Needlework painstakingly worked on the lace details. In fact, workers washed their hands every half an hour to ensure the lace stayed pristine, and needles were replaced with new sharp ones every three hours.

In the end, the lace was turned into tiny, beautiful floral patterns that were stitched onto silk tulle. The symbolic design included roses (for England), thistles (for Scotland), daffodils (for Wales) and shamrocks (for Ireland).

Photography by Getty Images

What other design details were included in Kate Middleton’s wedding dress?

You probably wouldn’t be surprised to hear a lot of thought went into the gown for Kate’s big day. According to the Palace, the Victorian-inspired corsetry on the bodice was a nod to a McQueen design trademark, and padding was added to the hips to complement the narrow waist. The back of the gown also featured 58 gazar and organza covered buttons, which were fastened by Rouleau loops.

Is it true Kate hid her “something blue” in the gown?

Yes! Burton cleverly sewed a blue ribbon inside the dress to keep with the old tradition. A new pair of earrings (inspired by the Middleton family’s coat of arms) gifted to Kate by her parents were her “something new,” while the Carrickmacross lace work covered the “something old.” Of course, the “something borrowed” was the Cartier Halo tiara Kate wore — the sparkling piece (which houses 1,000 diamonds and a large gemstone) was originally a gift to Queen Elizabeth II from her parents on her 18th birthday. (Her father, King George VI, initially bought it for his wife.) The tiara was reportedly secured to Kate’s head with a braid and held her elegant veil, which featured a trim of hand-embroidered flowers, in place.

Photography by KIRSTY WIGGLESWORTH/AFP via Getty Images

How long was Kate’s train? 

While the train on Kate Middleton’s wedding dress didn’t break any records — that honour still belongs to Princess Diana’s 25-foot-long showstopper — it was still a sight to behold. (Who can forget the sight of Kate’s sister Pippa adjusting it for her?) The jaw-dropping train came in at about nine feet long, and the underskirt beneath it, made with silk tulle to create shape, was designed to make the bottom of a dress resemble an opening flower.

What about the shoes? 

While Kate’s flowing gown may have hidden her shoes from view, rest assured, they were also stunning. The ivory satin heels were also custom-made by McQueen and featured additional lace embroidery by the Royal School of Needlework.

Photography by Getty Images

Did Kate also have a second wedding dress? 

You’ll likely remember that Meghan Markle changed out of her Givenchy gown (created by British designer Clare Waight Keller) into a sleek Stella McCartney dress for the evening reception. Kate did the same, swapping her heavier gown for a simple (yet still gorgeous) cathedral-length gown, also by McQueen. Her second dress included diamante detailing at the waist, and was paired with a cozy angora shrug.

The post Remembering Kate Middleton’s Wedding Dresses, 10 Years Later appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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