Gucci Boldly Hacks Balenciaga in its New Aria Collection

When Alessandro Michele announced he’d be trailing away from the traditional fashion calendar to show Gucci in bi-annual seasonless collections, he was doing what few had already done. Little did we know, the Italian fashion maestro was winding up for more with his Gucci Aria collection.

The collection released this morning as a film includes the results of what Michele calls a “hacking lab” — the target being another luxury force in the stable of Kering brands: Balenciaga. The term “hacking” makes it clear this was not a collaboration, where both parties provide consent. This was a bold incursion into the world presided over by another designer: Demna Gvasalia.

Named Aria — which is defined as a solo performance in an opera — the collection was more of a dance with soft and hard in perfect harmony. Or perhaps Michele was suggesting that he would create an aria, by blending two entities into one. Suits are marked with the names of both brands in the slanted style of Balenciaga. There’s an unmissable Gucci motif takeover of the Balenciaga Hourglass sling bag. Iced, cuban link necklaces have charms that spell out both fashion houses’ names (note the sneaky replacing of the “g” in Balenciaga with Gucci’s infamous double Gs). And there’s a new take on the Gucci logo belt with a single G in a font similar to Balenciaga’s “B” buckle.

Despite the saturation of labelling, Michele has captured today’s obsession with logomania in a way no other artist has, and perhaps kickstarted a whole new business strategy: high fashion fusions. And as collector’s items, the Aria pieces could skyrocket in value if this turns out to be a one-time thing.

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The setting for the film, by Michele and Floria Sigismondi (who grew up in Hamilton, ON) is the Savoy Club, a reference to the London hotel where founder Guccio Gucci worked and where the fancy luggage of the guests left a deep impression. Models walked a long hallway lined with strobe and stage lights to the beat of a hip-hop setlist sprinkled with Gucci references. Horsey motifs included harness-like corsets overtop tailored dresses and blouses. A studded crop top with Balenciaga-approved shoulders was paired with riding boots and a helmet. Michele’s taste for glitter came in a gathered-waist dress, reminiscent of flowing water, accessorized with a yellow stone-encrusted heart (the organ, not the Valentine symbol).

The film closes with Vitalic and David Shaw’s Waiting for the Stars playing while models caress each other in a fairytale landscape. This fashion-filled forest is a tucked away secret — a breath of fresh air. Just what the Aria collection and show panned out to be. And as lush greens and majestic white horses, bunnies and birds frolic to the lyrics “What the future holds, waiting for the stars to align,” the past, present and future all tie together. Gucci is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, and while its history can’t be contained in a single performance, this milestone moment marks the centenary in an innovative way. It also stresses that nothing can last without change.

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

Photography courtesy of Gucci

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I Tried the Sleek New Peloton Tread for Two Months — Here’s My Review

Let me start by saying I am not a natural runner. As far as cardio goes, I’d rather do a short burst of burpees (and I don’t love doing those, either) than jog around the block. It would take a colossal shift in my daily routines — like say, the one brought on by a year-long closure of, well, almost everything — to pique my interest in the activity.

I bring this up because it’s nearly impossible to separate my review of the Peloton Tread — the new, seriously souped-up treadmill by the makers of the world’s most coveted at-home exercise bike — from the current state of the world. Pre-pandemic, I was a regular (OK, semi-regular) at spin studios and functional-training classes. During the pandemic, one Ontario-wide stay-at-home order turned into another — and then another — and my world shrunk considerably. Before, at-home exercise equipment was, at least for my lifestyle, nice to have. Now, it feels necessary.

So while the Peloton Tread is, admittedly, a sleek piece of exercise equipment in any context, it was the overwhelming desire to simply move, without having to leave my home,  that made me eager to try it out. When I ultimately found myself looking forward to runs, no one was more surprised than me. Read on for my full review of the new Peloton Tread. 

What is the Peloton Tread, exactly?

At its most basic, it’s a seriously ergonomic treadmill. Beyond its overall sleek design, club-worthy sound that blasts from four front-facing speakers, and large HD flat-screen display, it has smart features like knobs to easily change speed (up to just over 20 km/h) and incline (up to 12.5 percent).

It’s the second treadmill Peloton has ever produced — the earlier and more expensive iteration is now called the Tread+ — but the first to be available in Canada. At $3,295 plus the cost of a monthly subscription ($49/month), it is pricey undertaking.

The Tread does offer more than your traditional treadmill, however: the Peloton subscription comes with an array of classes beyond running/walking/hiking, like pilates, strength, meditation and artist-themed bootcamps. Then there are the instructors, who have a life coach-like quality about them; in between sharing pointers on running technique, they’re known to muse about setting goals and finding your purpose. 

Not to be overlooked is the community aspect of a Peloton. The on-screen leaderboard displays all the participants in a class, whether it’s live or not. You can sort through the list to find your own Peloton-using friends or filter by hashtags, like #PelotonMoms or #PelotonGolfers, to find like-minded groups. I’d be remiss not to mention the certain cachet that comes with owning a Peloton, especially during the pandemic, when waitlists for delivery of its cycling bike stretched on for months. Consider it the Telfar bag of the fitness world.

How loud is the Peloton Tread?

Treadmills are decidedly not quiet pieces of equipment. The Tread has the standard treadmill hum to it as it runs and then you have to factor in the sound of slapping sneakers against the belt. If it makes additional noise while inclining/declining, it’s inaudible to me.

To put this in context: I live in an apartment that spans the top two floors of a house. We placed the treadmill on the very top floor (delivery and set up is, thankfully, managed by the Peloton team and included in the purchase price). While I can’t hear the Tread running from behind a closed-door on the second floor, it does slightly reverberate throughout the house. While I couldn’t comfortably sit next to it and watch a show without jacking the volume on my TV way up, my downstairs neighbours have never complained about the noise.

What is using the Peloton Tread really like?

It’s the closest I’ve felt to being back in a fitness class since the pandemic began. When I spoke to Peloton trainer Jess Sims ahead of the Tread launch, she gave me the best advice I’d ever heard on trying to become a runner: do less. I heeded her advice and started slow, with 20-minute beginner walk/run combo classes — and let me tell you, runner’s high is real, my friends. 

By the third week of running three-to-four times a week, I felt ready to do the hour-long Beyoncé bootcamp, which combines circuits of running on the treadmill with strength training done off of itl. I found myself entirely enjoying the class, which was particularly surprising when I realized this format was nearly identical to a trendy workout class I had tried once when it opened in Canada and never, ever returned to.

OK, but what if I’m already an intermediate or advanced runner? Are there classes for me?

Definitely. My roommate, who regularly used the treadmill at her gym pre-pandemic and frequently partakes in outdoor runs during the summer, reported the Tread felt soft on her ankles and knees compared to her outdoor runs. She also liked the breadth of running classes; you’re always able to find an option that matches the time frame and intensity you’re in the mood for. And if you want to just run sans instructor, you can pick from various scenic options, like sunny New Zealand.

TL;DR. Should I get a Peloton Tread?

If you are committed to at-home workouts (at least a few times a week) for the foreseeable future, the Peloton Tread is a sleek option for beginners to advanced runners who want to round out their training with stretching and strength classes.

If your living space is limited (it would be a tight squeeze in a standard-sized one-bedroom Toronto condo, for example), a treadmill may not be your best workout-from-home equipment option.

Shop workout gear to bring your treadmill workout to the next level:

Reebok Nano X1, $150, reebok.ca

Part running shoe, part training shoe (and fashion editor-approved), the Reebok Nano X1 is the ideal sneaker to support you both on and off the treadmill. 

Lululemon Energy Bra, $64, shop.lululemon.com

This ribbed, sweat-wicking bra from Lululemon offers support for B to D cups during medium-impact activities. 

Arc’teryx Delaney Leggings, $99.95, mec.ca

These sustainably made leggings are quick drying, perfect for wherever your workout takes you. 

Joe Fresh High Neck Sports Bra, $19, joefresh.com

This racerback sports bra is an affordable favourite of fitness creator and Joe Fresh ambassador Sasha Exeter. 

Allbirds Tree Dashers, $175, allbirds.ca

For the sustainably minded, there’s the Allbirds Tree Dasher. It’s all the same eco-friendly production they’re known for, now in a shoe that’s specifically designed — and vigorously tested — for running. 

The post I Tried the Sleek New Peloton Tread for Two Months — Here’s My Review appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Mary Katrantzou Talks About Her Collaboration with Bulgari

Transformation: It’s a concept that likely resonates more deeply than ever with most of us given the year-plus we’ve spent inside while enduring a process of evolution within ourselves — and the world at large. So, what better timing for the release of a collaboration between the Italian house Bulgari and Greek designer Mary Katrantzou that centres around the themes of change, strength and growth?

That’s not to say the connections explored within the range of decadent pieces was roused by the pandemic itself, as Katrantzou was already thinking about how to interpret Bulgari’s Serpenti icon before the world was plunged into uncertainty. “A mutual appreciation and affection” between she and the luxury brand had blossomed, Katrantzou says, after she featured pieces from Bulgari’s high jewellery collection (current and archival) in her first couture presentation at the Temple of Poseidon in Athens in 2019. Given the link between Sotirios Voulgaris, the Greek silversmith who founded Bulgari in 1884, and Katrantzou’s own heritage, a deeper creative union manifested from there.

Katrantzou was able to see Bulgari’s jewellery archives in the early stages of the project (before the process turned remote), and was struck by not only the elaborate iterations of the snake symbol throughout the decades, but also how deeply its meaning struck a chord in her personally. “It’s something I immediately felt connected to,” she says of the snake and its representation in both Greek and Roman mythology. “[It’s a] symbol of transformation, rebirth, healing — and the shedding of skin to allow for further growth.”

Photography courtesy of Bulgari

Determined to create pieces that honoured what came before through the lens of her own perspective and prowess, one of the standout items in Katrantzou’s ‘Serpenti Through the Eyes of’ collection is the lavish serpent’s head minaudière. The design takes influence from a Bulgari timepiece from the 1960s, and comes in styles that also play off the colours used in vintage pieces through intricate enamelwork (both monochrome and multi-hued). “[Bulgari and I] both have an affinity for bold colour,” Katrantzou says with a laugh.

Indeed, so many aspects of symbiotic creative vision are embodied in this new offering, from the couture-level embroidery of a butterfly motif — representative of the notion of metamorphosis — on a top-handle bag, to the mesmerizing patterns that infuse a sense of life into a selection of silk scarves. The pieces also infuse a sense of hope into the world, in that a portion of proceeds from sales will go to the Naked Heart Foundation, a charity focused on people with disabilities and special needs that was launched by model Natalia Vodianova (who stars in the collection’s campaign, naturally).

Katrantzou has always delighted fashion fans with her artistry, and for this project, she contemplated the way metamorphosis “has been expressed in art before,” name checking the likes of Escher and how “circularity has been represented graphically.” She highlights that serpentine symbols reflect this idea too, nodding to the ouroboros — the snake eating its own tail — as a “shape of infinity;” it’s interesting to see how ideas of change and continuation reveal themselves so seamlessly in the designs.

Creating the collection proved to be a salve for Katrantzou, who says she and her team enjoyed the experience — despite being done in separate spaces — immensely. And the ability to slow down and savour the process was a unique positive aspect of the pandemic. “Early on, [Chicago-based retailer] Ikram Goldman told me that thankfully for designers, they’re able to be bored. There’s no creativity without boredom.”

Photography courtesy of Bulgari

“I think it might be a controversial thing to say,” Katrantzou continues, “but the pace of the fashion industry has been so relentless that to have a moment where you are able to visualize ideas and have the time to explore creativity to the fullest — that’s a gift we didn’t have before.”

Katrantzou describes herself as an eternal optimist, so the fact that she’s able to see the bright side of things shouldn’t be a surprise. But it’s also her intimate knowledge of how the pace of the fashion industry has long impacted the stamina and self-preservation of creatives that helps cast thoughtful consideration towards the events of the last 14 months. “I see how it’s helping us and affecting change in a positive way,” she says. “It’s inspiring to see. And it’s an opportunity to change a value system that needed a rebirth.”

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Texture Talk: 9 Heat Styling Tools and Heat Protectants For Curly Hair

Perhaps one of the most controversial topics in the natural hair community is the use of heat styling tools. Should you use them? If so, how often is too often? Most importantly, how can you protect your curls while using heat to change their shape? And then, once you get past the ‘should I?’ questions, you have to decide which tools to use. Are ceramic straighteners better than titanium? Are hot combs still a thing? Can type 4 hair rely on the increasingly popular straightening brush?

One thing you’ll need regardless of the heat styling tool you choose or how often you use it? A heat protectant. Adding a heat protectant to your routine can be the difference between healthy curls post-heat and a heat-induced disaster. It’s also important to remember that heat damage does not have a universal appearance; it can present itself as damage to the cuticle layer (probably the most noticeable sign, resulting in the appearance of dry and dull hair), to the denaturing of hair proteins (hair protein is the magical component that gives hair its elasticity, strength and volume), to the loss of hair lipids and amino acids, which are crucial for moisture retention in the hair, and even loss of pigment in coloured hair. So while heat can be certainly be bad for hair, especially curls, damage is preventable.

Some of the ingredients to look for in a heat protectant that can help to combat heat damage are glycerin, propylene glycol, and silicone. Yes, really! When combating heat damage, silicones — which are often unfairly vilified — actually assist in keeping hair healthy because they slow down the rate that your hair absorbs and transfers heat.

Now onto to the meat and potatoes of heat styling. Anyone with textured hair should look for a straightener thats heat up quickly and most importantly, evenly, so that each section of your hair gets the same amount of heat, therefore allowing you to adhere to the “one pass” rule rather than going over the same section of hair over and over again, resulting in more heat damage. These types of straighteners tend to be made with titanium plates and have built-in heat regulators, so they get appropriately hot but never hotter than they need to in order to do their job. Hot tools with wider plates can also be beneficial because of their ability to cover more surface area in one pass.

We’ve rounded up a few of our favourites heat protectants and heat tools that get the job done with minimal hair damage.

Amika Blockade Heat Defense Serum

Amika Blockade Heat Defense Serum, $33, sephora.ca

The Amika Blockade Heat Defense Serum is a great option if you’re in the market for a vegan and cruelty-free heat protectant. Also free of sulfates, parabens, phthalates and artificial colours, this lightweight serum is enriched with vitamin-rich sea buckthorn berry, which contains vitamin C and A, antioxidants, as well as healthy omega fatty acids to help replace any moisture you may have lost through the straightening process.

Moroccanoil Perfect Defense Spray

Moroccanoil Perfect Defense, $32, sephora.ca

If you’re looking for a product to use in addition to some of the others in your rotation, the Moroccanoil Perfect Defense spray is a safe bet. Infused with argan oil, which is jam-packed with essential fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamin E, the lightweight spray makes it the perfect layering option.

T3 Lucea ID 1-inch Smart Straightening and Styling Iron

T3 Lucea ID 1-inch Smart Straightening and Styling Iron, $235, Nordstrom

Thanks to HeatID technology, you can actually adjust the heat temperature of the T3 Lucea 1D 1-inch Smart Straightening & Styling Iron according to a customized profile based on the texture and length of your hair. There’s even an option for colour-treated hair. With a refresh mode that reduces heat when you’re just touching up previously styled tresses, this truly is the straightener that can do it all.

Drybar The Tiny Tress Press 1-Inch Straightening Iron

Drybar The Tiny Tress Press 1-Inch Straightening Iron, $195, Nordstrom

This straightener may be tiny but it sure is mighty. At only an inch wide, this is a great option for getting close to curly roots, baby hairs, those fragile hairs at the nape of your neck, or just short hair in general. Titanium technology allows it to seal heat into the cuticle for less frizz and leave hair straight and shiny.

Dyson Corrale Straightener

Dyson Corrale Straightener, $649, dyson.ca

Not shopping on a budget? Well, no hair tool round-up would be complete without a Dyson. The plates of the Corrale straightener actually flex in order to mold to the exact shape of your hair, which makes it a great investment piece for someone with textured hair. It’s made with copper plates (known for evenly conducting heat) and features three heat settings to best suit your hair type, as well as heat control that regulates the temperature of the plates 100 times a second (!!) to ensure that you never go over your chosen heat temperature. Did we mention it’s also cordless and automatically turns off after 10 minutes of inactivity, so you never have to worry about whether or not you left your straightener on? Groundbreaking.

ghd Platinum+ Professional Performance 1″ Styler

ghd Platinum+ Professional Performance 1″ Styler, $299, sephora.ca

Ever wondered what it would be like to have a straightener that can predict the future? Look no further, the ghd platinum+ Professional Performance 1″ Styler is the answer. Kind of. This flat iron uses predictive technology, which can recognize the thickness of your hair and the speed at which you’re styling it, to adapt the heat of its plates accordingly. This means that you get the perfect amount of heat every time, giving you a sleek look with fewer passes and in less time. It only takes 20 seconds for this hot tool to reach its maximum temperature of 365 degrees.

HSI Glider Ceramic Flat Iron

HSI Glider Flat Iron, $151, walmart.ca

If you’ve ever been to the salon to get your curls straightened, chances are at one point or another you’ve encountered an HSI Professional straightener. With a reputation for being durable, effective and made with ceramic plates (known for their ability to reach high temperatures), this straightener has an impressive range of 140 to 450 degrees. It’s also infused with tourmaline crystals that help to neutralize ions that can cause static and frizz.

Gold N Hot Professional Styling Comb

Gold N Hot Professional Styling Comb, $58, amazon.ca

We know you’ve heard the horrifying stories about hot combs. From possible burns on your ears and neck to irreparable heat damage to your hair, they don’t exactly have a glowing reputation. However, when paired with the right heat protectant, and used in moderation and by someone who truly knows what they’re doing, hot combs can actually leave your hair silky smooth and super straight. If you choose to go down this road, we suggest using one like the Gold N Hot Professional Styling Comb that has a multi-temperature regulator, so you can decide which temperature you want to use.

Drybar The Single Shot Blow-Dryer Brush

Drybar The Single Shot Blow-Dryer Brush, $198, sephora.ca

If there’s one thing we can trust Drybar with, it’s a good blowout — every time. Their Single Shot Round Blow-Dryer Brush combines a round brush with hot air in order to give you a smooth and sleek blowout. For those with curly hair, we suggest detangling and sectioning hair off before giving this a go. You can also choose between three different heat settings to ensure that whatever your hair type, you’re getting the right amount of heat. Hot tip: For type 4 hair, it might be best to do a rough blow dry before using the brush to ensure that you get the smoothest results.

Missed our last Texture Talk column? Click here.

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Inspo Alert! Why We Love the Wild Style of Nick Haramis & Misha Kahn

Brooklyn-based power couple Nick Haramis, a Canadian whose current gig is editor-in-chief of Interview Magazine, and Misha Kahn, a multimedia artist who hails from Minnesota, have received much media attention for their eccentrically decorated apartment. Yet their decadent wardrobe choices also beg for a space in the spotlight thanks to an eclectic closet teeming with pleasingly tactile pieces and scads of items by designer Thom Browne.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARKAN ZAKHAROV. “The more familiar I became with Thom’s work, the more I imagined an idealized version of myself in the clothes,” says Haramis.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARKAN ZAKHAROV. “nick said he’d never seen me look so giddy,” says kahn of when he acquired this quirky Comme des garçons sweater at one of the brand’s sample sales.

Haramis says his family “bopped around quite a bit” during his youth, and his early attempts at dressing were apparently equally all over the map: While listing a chronology of personal style, he highlights a period of “only wearing pyjamas in public” when he was in high school.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARKAN ZAKHAROV. “an unexpected tactile quality is so hard to put into words, so it brings you to a different part of your mind and spirit—like when you walk on moss or fall into muck,” says kahn. here he has paired a plush henrik vibskov sweater with bespoke brocade trousers.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARKAN ZAKHAROV. In addition to having a covetable closet of Thom Browne clothing, Haramis is the proud owner of an assortment of tech items the designer made in collaboration with Samsung, including a flip-phone, a smartwatch and headphones. “The thing that’s addictive about Thom Browne is that he has created an entire universe through his designs,” says Haramis.

Once at university, he discovered the work of singular tailoring titan Thom Browne, and over the years, Haramis’s style has become manicured, perhaps, but no less adventurous. “The more familiar I became with Thom’s work, the more I imagined an idealized version of myself in the clothes,” says Haramis.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARKAN ZAKHAROV. This track suit is from a Thom Browne collaboration with Colette from 2017,” says Haramis. “When I wear it to go running, I feel very much like Julia Louis-Dreyfus in National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. And that’s a compliment.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARKAN ZAKHAROV. the “disco effect” achieved by the mirrors on this walter van beirendonck jacket makes it one of kahn’s favourite pieces. “i love the intense embroidery,” he adds.

He now owns an array of Browne’s sought-after suits, ranging from formalwear to sportier fare, as well as some looks that defy definition (a specialty of Browne’s). One such outfit is from the Spring 2017 season: a cream-coloured suit crafted with shark-bite-style cut-outs. “Misha wore it to a Met Gala after-party, and now it’s got red-wine stains down the front that look like blood, which weirdly works,” he notes.

While the duo does share clothing, their tastes aren’t entirely matchy-matchy. Kahn’s inclinations veer toward vibrant, palpable pieces, and he adores the OTT offerings from design- ers like Walter Van Beirendonck, Henrik Vibskov and Cynthia Chang — looks that intrigue as well as delight the eye. “In my work, I like it when there’s a texture that tricks you — something that looks soft but is hard or vice versa,” he says. “In clothing, we expect certain things; it’s nice not to meet those expectations head-on.”

Photography by Arkan Zakharov. Grooming, Jakob Sherwood for The Wall Group/Dior/r+Co. Styling, Sarah Slutsky for The Wall Group.

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