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Tuesday, December 29, 2020

Canadian Rock Band Crown Lands Talk Hair, Music and Identity

Buoyant, shoulder-grazing tresses are a prominent feature of Crown Lands, the genre- bending psych-blues rock band comprising Cody Bowles and Kevin Comeau. “They’ve definitely become part of our identity, for sure,” comments Comeau. “Our hair is important to the band and what it represents.”

The pair, who hail from Oshawa, Ont., began their joint hair journeys six years ago, back when Bowles (vocals, drums) and Comeau (guitar, bass, keys) first met and quickly bonded over their shared obsession with Canadian progressive rock band Rush. Their look developed out of necessity rather than an active decision, shares Comeau. “It was more about the fact that I had spent all of my money on guitars, so I didn’t have any left for haircuts.”

Their lengthy locks have become a trademark that creates an impact onstage and are as unforgettable as their “heavy, loud” music. “It’s a presence thing,” expresses Bowles, who identifies with the non-binary pronouns they/them and isn’t shy to enhance their cascading curls with wild outfits, body glitter and makeup. “When people see us, they’re like, ‘Wow, sick!’ They know they’re in for something interesting.”

Headbanging and hair whipping while shredding his guitar is paramount to Comeau’s showmanship. “It’s my only way of dancing because I’m standing and playing keyboards with my feet, so I can’t move around,” he explains. “Before touring ended this year, I’d almost built up some choreography: I had movements for each song.” And that feeling of hitting the stage to perform for a crowd? According to the duo, it’s like a time-escaping, transcendental moment that changes you, inside and out. “When the sound waves hit your body, you become bigger,” expresses Comeau, mentioning music and religion in the same breath. “It’s the same reason why people go to church or join sports teams – it’s to serve something that’s bigger than yourself. And I think that’s a huge part of human nature and societies. We want to be part of something bigger than ourselves. That’s what Crown Lands represents for Cody and me. It is so much more than the sum of its parts.”

A greater mission is written into the band’s name. It’s a direct nod to territorial areas once belonging to the British Crown that were passed on to the federal or provincial governments – lands that Indigenous peoples traditionally occupied. It’s a blunt and powerful alias that compels the duo to create music that educates people about Indigenous injustices and Canada’s troublesome history. “It’s our duty to speak up about things that really matter,” states Bowles, who is half Mi’kmaq (an Indigenous tribe from the Atlantic region of Canada). And in the wake of a global chorus calling for a reckoning with anti-Black racism, policing and inequality, Crown Lands’s passion to raise marginalized groups is burning stronger than ever. “There’s a spiritual revolution happening, and we have a duty to be the soundtrack to it,” says Comeau. “As a straight, white-presenting male, I have a huge responsibility to be a good ally.”

Their 2017 song “Mountain” paints a picture of colonization and the damaging government-sponsored residential school system (an attempt to eradicate Indigenous youth of their cultural language and practices that caused long-term intergenerational problems among Indigenous communities). Then there’s “End of the Road,” which was released this year and shines a spotlight on the notorious Highway of Tears, a remote stretch of road in British Columbia known for the dozens of women and girls – mostly Indigenous – who have vanished or turned up dead in the area. To this day, most of these cases are still unsolved.

As much as this rock band creates music in the hope of sparking change, it has also become a potent outlet for Bowles’s mental health. “Music has helped me through so many hard times in my life,” they share. “It has helped me through major depression.”

Comeau, on the other hand, is quick to flip the script. “Listening to music helps a lot with mental health, but creating it can sometimes be super straining,” he says. Especially when you have to “tear your soul apart to write a good record” and hit the road for a whirlwind tour that pulls you away from loved ones for lengths of time – realities that are often not spoken about in the music industry. Comeau adds that he reached his lowest point this past February while recording Crown Lands’s latest creation, Wayward Flyers, a five-track acoustic EP. How did he cope? With weekly therapy. “It’s never the wrong time to get therapy,” he states. “Finding someone you can talk to? There’s no shame in that whatsoever. It’s been the best investment in my life – other than my guitars.”

Below, the duo unpack what their hair (and beard) routines consist of.

The post Canadian Rock Band Crown Lands Talk Hair, Music and Identity appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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I Have Nowhere to Go, but I’m Shopping Anyway

Before quarantine, my enjoyment of going out was heightened by the promise in anticipation. If there was a party I planned to attend, the way I prepared for it always started with choosing an outfit. Placing myself in a considered look featuring an array of playful colours and outlandish silhouettes – vintage Pucci or Moschino, perhaps – helped me understand how I could move through a room and be myself, no matter what came my way, with ease.

As I got older, this process often became an exercise to quell social anxiety, and eventually, with practice, I could overcome any obvious nerves. Only in the isolation of COVID-19 did I realize that this ritual was integral to my love of clothes. The journey started with the thrill of coming across certain pieces, imagining all the possibilities of wearing them and then finally living in them. For me, that was the joy of fashion.

When there was suddenly nowhere to go, my relationship with clothing had to adapt to new circumstances. Though I have considered myself a collector for many years, my obsession reached a fever pitch during isolation.

My experience with resale websites goes back to my early days of thrifting; it is an expertise that includes knowledge about textiles and fashion history and understanding the difference between how much something is worth and what you’re willing to pay for it.

When there was suddenly nowhere to go, my relationship with clothing had to adapt to new circumstances

As time passes, sourcing items that meet certain standards of quality craftsmanship becomes more and more difficult – those with a discerning eye notice that some luxury houses are not manufacturing their clothes like they used to.

In the unsettled moments before bed, I opened the apps: Poshmark, eBay, The RealReal and Depop. With the possibility of physically going to stores largely out of the question, these platforms were my only outlet. The search, often like dating, was held up by the hope that something might come along that I wouldn’t want to miss. I scoured for hours, with a vague idea of what I wanted and the certainty that it must exist somewhere.

A few weeks into quarantine, I stumbled across a dress from the infamous Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 1995 Cyber collection, which is easily recognized by optical illusion-style dots that echo the curves of a woman’s body. Thanks to luxury vintage sellers like Pechuga Vintage, pieces from the collection have resurfaced; Gaultier’s dots have recently been seen on the likes of Kim Kardashian and Cardi B. I purchased the dress for $30, and the rush of serotonin that resulted from the thrill was the only vice I had left.

What started as a way to fill hours while isolating at home suddenly became filled with purpose.

My knack for describing garments has been honed by the eBay search bar, and my various watchlists are filled with items that are attainable, fantastical and, of course, so novel that one can only find pleasure knowing they exist. I’ll look for Bakelite handbags that resemble giant rounds of butterscotch or for archival pieces like the original Paco Rabanne disc bag from the ’60s (now re-released). I can scroll through countless pages to find specific pieces from collections that hold historical and cultural significance to me – my very own Criterion Collection of clothes. A $6,000 museum-quality set – consisting of a corset, a bustle skirt and a balloon-sleeved top – from Vivienne Westwood’s Spring 1996 show has been sitting at the top of my eBay list for over a year. Westwood’s designs that season mimicked the rococo style, with Watteau gowns and corsetry interpreted with her signature playful twist.

What started as a way to fill hours while isolating at home suddenly became filled with purpose. I bought floor-length dresses, bustiers and large ornate hats. As I showed my wares to friends over FaceTime, they would say “But where are you going?” It did not matter. I was preserving remnants of my former life through my wardrobe – a life that may no longer be possible in a post-COVID-19 world. I snapped up pieces from specific collections, always with the presumption that I could sell them if I wanted to; but the bliss I derive from having them in my closet is almost better.

As I showed my wares to friends over FaceTime, they would say “But where are you going?” It did not matter.

It’s not that I may one day have a place to wear them – it’s their association with the past that feels like a fantasy. What used to be an object filled with possibility is now a relic from an era long gone.

Away from other people, this obsession feels intimate and personal. Whether I am curating a digital museum or dreaming through my closet, I can surround myself with objects I find beautiful, and this gives me comfort in times of uncertainty.

When it’s possible, I will wear these clothes into the future to commemorate the beauty of the past.

The post I Have Nowhere to Go, but I’m Shopping Anyway appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Monday, December 28, 2020

21 Stylish Musicians We Want to See More of in 2021

No matter what musical genres you’re into, there’s a certain allure to the outfits musicians wear; they are a constant source of dress-up dreams. As we head into 2021, here are 21 stylish musicians (part of 15 musical acts in total) we hope will continue to capture our imaginations – and influence our closets – in the new year.

1. Lido Pimienta

 

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Freshly nominated for a Grammy award and recently appearing on Barack Obama’s list of fave tunes for the year, Toronto-based music-maker Lido Pimienta has a vibrant outfit outlook that’s totally uplifting – and who doesn’t need a bit of that at this point? We also love how open she is about breastfeeding her baby, so fellow moms can take note of her nursing style hacks!

2. Steve Lacy

 

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Fronting a Moncler campaign and being a favourite of brands like Loewe has solidified California R n’ B-pop savant Steve Lacy’s status as a style icon; in fact, we’re still not over their Comme Des Garçons kilt look from the Grammys earlier this year. Lacy also has a fashion-focused platform called FitVomit, which is set to launch soon.

3. Laura Lee of Khruangbin

 

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Khruangbin vocalist and bassist Laura Lee isn’t afraid of a little – or a lot – of razzle dazzle. Sequins and beads, rainbow textures, pops of accessories and sky-high heels are all part of her signature style.

4. Jeremy Dutcher

 

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Classically trained composer and operatic tenor Jeremy Dutcher has never shied away from a key fashion moment, like the glam, (literally) statement-making ensemble worn to last year’s Junos that featured pieces by Toronto-based label Zoffranieri and Edmonton’s Luxx; the lining of Dutcher’s cape featured Cree syllabics which said, “We will succeed”.

5. Nubya Garcia

 

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London-based saxophonist, composer and band leader Nubya Garcia’s style boasts an irreverent mix of athleisure pieces, jumpsuits and eye-catching accessories including adornments to her ultra-long hair braid. Look to her for up-and-coming British brands to put on your radar.

6. Talvi Faustmann

 

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Set to release her first solo album early next year, Toronto-based singer-songwriter Talvi Faustmann has caught the eye of many photographers and brands thanks to her makeup and sartorial choices, which are decidedly modern yet a little retro, and even a bit otherworldly.

7. Wendy Shay

 

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Afropop singer Wendy Shay caused a major social sensation after recently sharing IG posts that appeared to show the Ghanian star tying the knot in tandem with the release of a new track, “Wedding Song”. What we can be sure of, authentic nuptials or not, is that Shay will continue to surprise with her style that seems largely based around mood – sometimes a tad sporty, other times super sensual.

8. Joshy Soul

 

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The ever-dapper singer-songwriter Joshy Soul is a study in crafting your own personal style by fusing different aesthetics to form a whole new vibe. One day he’s a little bit country, the next, a little bit sleek and minimalist – and his jewellery game is always extremely on-point.

9. Beverly Glenn Copeland

Just as it’s difficult to define the music of Beverly Glenn Copeland – “soothing, soaring life affirmations” is close – so too is it hard to put your finger on what makes his style so captivating. Maybe it’s the dash of print you’ll see on a shirt or tie; maybe it’s the pocket scarves; maybe it’s the charm of the watch he wears carabiner-style at his waist. It’s a combination that’s as visually potent as his music is rich.

10. Luna Li

 

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Multi-instrumentalist and singer Luna Li’s playful sense of style includes oversized earrings, juice-y hued hair, and a varied assortment of garments from disco-ball jumpsuits to the ethereal dress by Toronto brand, Local Woman, that she wore in the video for the song, “Afterglow”.

11. Rico Nasty

 

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Dagger-sharp nails, extreme accessorization and a willingness to experiment are the hallmarks of rapper Rico Nasty’s take-charge ensembles. Like the musical style icons of past eras, she’s cementing her own legacy by keeping us guessing about what she’ll wear next.

12. Ruth Patterson of Holy Moly and the Crackers

 

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As the lead singer of the British indie rock band, Ruth Patterson commands attention with her voice and her penchant for strong looks that incorporate bold accessories and romantic details. Showing a definite ’90s influence, berets and boots are particularly key to her wardrobe.

13. Tygapaw

 

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New York-based DJ and producer Tygapaw told FASHION that, “Personal style for me is all about expression and where I’m at in terms of my comfort in denouncing what society deems as conventional [and] expressing myself, especially when it comes to my gender—or non-gender. There’s an evolution that’s in progress.” And with the release of their new album last month, we’ll continue to watch this evolution as it happens.

14. Everglow

Like the iconic group acts before them, the five members of K-Pop sensation Everglow – E:U, Sihyeon, Mia, Onda, Aisha and Yiren – define their personal style through slight variations in their stage wear. Following their social channels, though, you’ll get more of a glimpse of how each singer approaches their individual aesthetic.

15. Crown Lands

 

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Kevin Comeau and Cody Bowles of Crown Lands might first catch your attention thanks to their fabulous hair; but then you’ll quickly take notice of their ability to keep a ’70s style vibe fresh, especially when they mix psychedelic accents with more modern silhouettes.

The post 21 Stylish Musicians We Want to See More of in 2021 appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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How an MS Diagnosis Affected My Attitude Toward Fashion

Whenever I couldn’t sleep pre-COVID, I put together outfits in my mind. I thought about an event I had on the horizon – a trip to New York, an upcoming opera, dinner with friends – and mentally scanned my closet in search of the perfect tulle skirt, velvet blazer or knee-high boots that I could build the rest of my look around. Some people count sheep, but I am soothed with visions of all the pretty things in my wardrobe that are begging to be brought to life.

I’ve had multiple sclerosis (MS), an incurable chronic illness, for 19 years. For most of this time, I knew my life was going to be difficult, but I had faith in who I was and believed my diagnosis couldn’t change that. But as my disease progressed, slowly and insidiously, there came a day when MS was no longer just something I had (an illness); it was something I was (disabled).

The forces attempting to erode my sense of self went beyond what MS can do. Adding a cane and then a rollator, and sometimes a wheelchair, to my day-to-day look was not part of my insomniac dreams but an unexpected nightmare for my identity. I went from being able to pass as “normal,” where a stranger commenting on my appearance would likely be complimenting my red leather loafers or raw-silk turban, to feeling like I was wearing a sign inviting people to ask “What’s wrong with you?” or “Can I pray for you?”
For most of my life, my style was the first thing that spoke for me – a style I thought of as chic meets whimsical, never boring and always a little bit “look at me.”

When the effects of MS forced me to add mobility aids to my wardrobe, it suddenly didn’t matter how loud my statement necklace was; my disability was the first thing that spoke for me, and it had nothing good to say. I found myself shoving my rollator out of photos and surfing the walls and furniture at home rather than have my husband see me using a cane. I was convinced that looking fall-down drunk was still more appealing than looking disabled. Of course, my husband is no fool. I looked drunk and disabled – and probably a little stupid.

I wanted the world to keep seeing me the same way I saw myself. But even my vintage pink boa couldn’t detract from the pitying looks and inquiries that being attached to a rollator invites. People don’t believe you can be attractive, successful, sexual or even smart if you have a disability. I was freaking out and, for the first time in my life, unsure of who I was.

I wanted the world to keep seeing me the same way I saw myself.

It was during this self-indulgent existential crisis that I found myself strolling through my downtown Toronto neighbourhood when a guy about my age, wearing a natty fedora, walked toward me. Like me, he was using a cane. I noticed his drop foot, and I saw him notice mine. We gave each other knowing smirks as we headed in opposite directions. I ruminated over Fedora for days, thinking “That guy seemed cool; I could be friends with someone like that.”

And then it struck me. Like, duh, if that guy looks cool with a mobility aid, maybe I look cool, too. I realized that the key to accepting my new look – the mobility aid version of myself – was in seeing people who look like me looking better than me. So much of fashion is aspirational. How was I supposed to understand the potential beauty of someone with a disability without high-fashion examples to consider?

I turned to the internet in search of new role models. (Selma Blair’s red carpet moment at the 2019 Vanity Fair Oscar party, when the actress appeared in a flowing Ralph & Russo gown with a customized matching cane, hadn’t happened yet.) The absence of stylish images of visibly disabled young women in mainstream media validated the negative associations I assumed were being made about me. I felt like I’d been excommunicated from the world of designer clothes and It bags that I loved so much.

I decided that I would not only stop being ashamed of my mobility aids but also celebrate them.

Coming to terms with my inability to walk unaided is an ongoing negotiation, but my North American birthright to superficial vanity and materialistic self-obsession is no longer negotiable. My new disabled identity isn’t going to keep me from my “look at me” outfits. I decided that I would not only stop being ashamed of my mobility aids but also celebrate them.

I sourced the best-looking devices I could find – no small feat considering that just about every industry has yet to recognize that people with disabilities have the same fashion literacy as the average consumer. The idea that disability is the only identity we’re entitled to is reinforced when the tools we need to help us move look so medical, devoid of aesthetic or individuality.

It is just another way to be human, and how can we not find beauty in that?

I found two companies in Europe (naturally!) that were making rollators that matched my vibe. Sleek and stream- lined, they had hidden cables, making them look more sporty than assistive, and they came in colours like Oyster White and Cloud Blue. I hired a fashion photographer to create the kind of images I had been looking for – for my own sake but also so I could litter them all over Instagram, knowing there had to be other people looking for the same kind of mirror I had been seeking.

Since my initial online searches in 2017, the virtual chronic illness community has expanded and social media has become a place where people with disabilities can see and be seen and are unapologetically taking up space. The landscape is changing, and the new fashion industry has started to take notice.
I used to be happy to pass as “normal,” but with 22 per cent of Canadians identifying as disabled, disability is normal. It is just another way to be human, and how can we not find beauty in that? In the end, MS didn’t make me change my style. It made me insist on my style, and my “look at me” attitude has never felt more powerful.

The post How an MS Diagnosis Affected My Attitude Toward Fashion appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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Saturday, December 26, 2020

My Story: Miss Universe Canada 2020 Nova Stevens on Modelling, Activism and More

Nova Stevens’ path to her current career as a model and actress hasn’t come easy. She was born in Kenya to parents who, fleeing the civil war in South Sudan, decided to send her to Canada at the age of six with the hope of providing her a better life and more opportunities. She hasn’t seen her parents in 22 years but lived with various other family members in Alberta and Ontario until the age of 15, when she decided to move out and live on her own. Modelling gigs began coming to her at age 16 and after a brief stint in New York, she moved to Vancouver in 2014 where she began to pursue work as an actress as well as a model.

We caught up with Stevens ahead of the Miss Universe Canada 2020 competition—which she went on to win—to chat with her about why winning this beauty pageant is so important to her, her ongoing work with various non-profit organizations, and her commitment to racial justice.

On her challenging past and journey to success:
“I think it definitely made me more resilient. I have to thank my past experiences because they really have shaped me and who I am. If not for the struggles I experienced growing up I don’t think I would be as strong as I am. I don’t think I would have the ability to overcome obstacles that arise out of nowhere. I’m a firm believer that what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger. It’s a motivating factor to keep pushing and to keep pursuing my dreams. Because not only do I have to be there for myself but also my family who are in a war-torn country with very little resources.”

On her volunteer work with non-profit organizations:
“I’ve always said that I’m going to pay it forward in any way that I can. Canada essentially raised me. Its organizations and people have given me resources and support while my family’s in Africa. So giving back to the community was always something I was going to do, no matter what. Keep 6ix is an organization I work with based in Toronto whose mission is to help youth who have been incarcerated get back on their feet, rehabilitate them and give them resources that allow them to integrate back into society and change their lives for the better. Then there’s Operation Smile, which provides free life-saving surgery for kids with cleft lips and cleft palates, and Feed it Forward, whose mission is to eradicate food waste and to help the food insecure. What I’ve learned through them is that 58% of all food produced in Canada is lost or wasted and that 1 in 5 Canadians are food insecure. A lot of people don’t know that. You never think that there are people suffering in your own backyard.”

nova stevens
Photographer: Peter Tamlin. Fashion: Brandon Laughton. Makeup: Lou Swinden-Payne. Hair: Adrian Carew. Production: MGMode. Earrings, Cuffs: The Fashion Edit. Dress: Steven Lejambe. Shoes: Paris Texas.

On organizing the Freedom March in Vancouver this past summer:
“I went to the first Black Lives Matter protest at an art gallery and at that point I had no interest in speaking, I was just going to go there in support of everyone marching in solidarity. But when I got there I had this sense of urgency, I had this voice in my head that told me I had to go speak. I didn’t know what I was going to say but I knew I had to get up there. So I just spoke from the heart, nothing was rehearsed. Shamika Mitchell [an actress/activist] reached out to me and said ‘I heard you speak, you inspired me, let’s do a march together.’ And so Shamika and I started the Freedom March [which brought together over 15,000 people in the streets of Vancouver on June 19].

We’re also in the process of setting up a nonprofit with a mission to continue the conversation and to help Black, Indigenous and people of colour with resources, which often times are lacking in our communities. What’s important to me is education and financial literacy. Part of what I want to do with my organization is to have scholarship funds for kids and to give business grants to Black entrepreneurs. It’s important to empower yourself and I think business really does that.”

On racism in the modelling industry:
“I was modelling in Milan and I remember doing a casting where the casting director said ‘what are you doing here, we told your agent – no Black girls.’ In my mind, I was like ‘that is not okay, you can’t just say that to someone.’ I was a grown woman so that didn’t really affect me as much but imagine if I was a 16-year-old girl hearing someone say that to me, at a point when I’m still trying to figure out who I am. That can cause a lot of damage in someone.”

nova stevens
Photographer: Peter Tamlin. Fashion: Brandon Laughton. Makeup: Lou Swinden-Payne. Hair: Adrian Carew. Production: MGMode. Earrings, Cuffs: The Fashion Edit. Dress: Dion Lee. Shoes: Paris Texas

On hair and makeup artists who don’t know how to work with darker skin tones and textured hair:
“All my life I’ve been told to bring my own foundation and do my own makeup, and that’s so hurtful. If you’re a makeup artist you should be able to do makeup on all people, not just white people. It’s troublesome that schools are not teaching makeup artists and hairstylists to do hair and makeup on people of all backgrounds. They’re essentially saying ‘this is what you have to focus on because this is what matters and this is what’s considered beautiful by society.’ That’s troublesome but if it’s your career, you should take it upon yourself to learn.”

On why she competed for the Miss Universe Canada crown three times:
“The first time was in 2014, and my second time competing was 2018. That time I competed with short hair. It was very important to me to represent myself authentically by competing with my natural hair on a national stage, to show other girls that we don’t have to conform to be beautiful. You can be beautiful just as you are. When I didn’t win, I was devastated and I swore off pageants. But something happened when Zozibini Tunzi won the Miss Universe pageant in 2019. I saw myself in hair. She’s a Black woman from Africa with short hair—the same texture as my hair, the same complexion as me. This is why representation is so important. When you see yourself in someone else it inspires you to be the very best version of yourself. That’s what she did, she inspired me. So I said to myself, if she can win Miss Universe, if Miss Universe can see her, maybe finally Canada can see me too.”

nova stevens
Photographer: Peter Tamlin. Fashion: Brandon Laughton. Makeup: Lou Swinden-Payne. Hair: Adrian Carew. Production: MGMode. Earrings, Cuffs: The Fashion Edit.

On the fact that Miss Universe Canada has only ever crowned one Black winner:
“In 1989, Juliette Powell was the first (and last) Black woman to win Miss Universe Canada. That was over 30 years ago. It’s bothersome to me that in the last 30 years there has not been another Black woman good enough for the crown. I will not accept that. Because I don’t believe that to be the case at all. Canada’s a land of immigrants and it’s our diversity that makes us so beautiful. But I find that often times in certain industries—a lot of industries—it’s always one face that’s being shown as the face of Canada and I’m tired of it. We have to show the world that Canada really is diverse and a land of equal opportunity.”

On her response to people who say beauty pageants are sexist:
“I disagree with those people. Beauty pageants empower women. The skills that you use in the competition are skills you’re going to use for the rest of your life. You’re public speaking, in front of thousands of people, which takes a lot of courage. Preparation—you have to be mentally and physically prepared. It’s not as easy as people think it is. The questions that we’re being asked on stage are not easy. There’s more to it than ‘world peace.’ You have to be able to eloquently answer questions while remaining diplomatic and within 30 seconds. I don’t think a lot of people can do that. These are women that are strong and confident, they’re resilient, they’re diverse and they’re leaders. To put yourself out there is a mark of leadership. These are leaders that have worked hard and they’re using their voices. I want to win so badly because I want to use that platform to not only encourage others to use their voices but also to advocate for change.”

 

The post My Story: Miss Universe Canada 2020 Nova Stevens on Modelling, Activism and More appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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8 Things To Know Before Buying a Watch

Are you thinking about buying a watch? As a beautiful object and as a metaphor, the wristwatch may be the ultimate heirloom. It witnesses both the mundane moments and the milestones in our daily lives, and its design is an intimate expression of taste. Collecting watches is like embarking on a lifelong adventure; both vintage and new models, either of which can be rare, appreciate with changing trends – as do historically important timepieces or those with a celebrity pedigree. For example, the iconic 1962 Cartier Tank watch that belonged to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis was sold for over $500,000 to Kim Kardashian West at a Christie’s auction in 2017.

Here are eight things watch collectors Dan Tanenbaum, Jeremy Ong, Pedro Mendes and Kat Shoulders and Katlen Schmid say you need to know before buying a watch.

1. Do your research

To talk shop about watch specs, learn the lingo pertaining to shape, finishing and balance as well as engineering: Think case size, thickness and crown, and know a tourbillon from a minute repeater. And bone up on a piece’s background. “Know the history behind it, get it checked out and don’t hesitate to pay a premium with a dealer,” says Dan Tanenbaum. “It’ll give you peace of mind and give the watch credibility.”

2. Know your size

Familiarize yourself with dimensions that work best for you. Kat shoulders, of the horology podcast Tenn & Two, advises that most vintage men’s watches from the ’30s and ’40s are particularly suited to women’s wrist proportions. Know thicknesses and dimensions, because brands like Rolex list case sizes (for example, 34 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm) as opposed to “women’s” or “men’s” on the label.

3. Get a few tools, and store watches properly for protection

A loupe and watchmaking repair tools like fine screwdrivers, a spring bar tool (for changing the strap without scratching the case) and a case opener are essential; try precision-made Swiss brand Bergeon’s wares. Make sure to budget for the fact that in order to maintain their mechanical movements, higher-end and vintage watches should be professionally serviced about every five years. Toronto podcast producer and writer Pedro Mendes stores his watches in display boxes so he can appreciate them while keeping them clean, free of dust and away from the sun’s damaging rays.

4. Buying a watch is best done in person

Unless you’re dealing with a reputable auction house or an horology dealer, vet significant vintage purchases (anything in the five figures) in person – especially with harder-to-find grails. Collector Jeremy Ong once flew to Manila to inspect a private seller’s Universal Genève Tri-Compax 222102 from the ’60s (a rare variant model nicknamed “the Evil Clapton”) before buying it.

5. Combine your interests

“If they include water or outdoor activities, there’s a whole genre of dive and field watches,” says Mendes. “And if they’re art deco or jazz, there are whole streams of watches that come out of that design aesthetic. For me, it’s satisfying to make those connections.”

6. Join a community to satisfy your curiosity

“I’ve met collectors from all walks of life, all bonded together by a common hobby,” Ong says of joining Instagram to share collection photos. “It gets your name out there, and I’ve made a bunch of new watch friends and also attained some pretty amazing pieces.” While gatherings like RedBar Group have gone virtual for now, Mendes suggests seeking them out once COVID restrictions let up. In pre-pandemic times, podcast Tenn & Two’s Katlen Schmidt loved these personal connections. “More than the watches, the neat thing about this and any hobby is the people,” she says. “You make so many friendships.”

7. Know when to let go

Trial and error is part of collecting. As you grow more confident, you can swap and sell watches you’re less interested in to fund other pieces and trade up. “I think it’s always changing,” says Schmidt. “You can never say it’s your watch collection until the end of time.” Adds Shoulders: “I went through a major flipping phase – watches coming in and going out. I don’t regret it. I think I learned a lot about myself.”

8. Be patient

“You should never be in a rush, like ‘I have to get this tomorrow’ or ‘It’s my husband’s 50th birthday in a week,’” advises Tanenbaum, especially with hard- to-find models. “If you’re not in a hurry for it, you’ll get a great example – that’s true with the collecting of anything.”

A version of this article originally appeared in the Winter issue of FASHION magazine. 

The post 8 Things To Know Before Buying a Watch appeared first on FASHION Magazine.



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