Ultimate Store: September 2021

Thursday, September 30, 2021

Texture Talk: 6 Natural Hair Products You Need to Know Now

If you’re looking to add some exciting new products into your natural and textured hair routine this season, look no further. These six natural haircare brands are offering exciting new options from leave-in conditioners, natural edge controls, and lush loc care.

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Charlotte Mensah

Founded by award-winning hair stylist Charlotte Mensah (who was inducted into the British Hairdressing Hall of Fame in 2017), every product in this natural haircare line is formulated with both manketti nut and ximenia oils. Manketti nut oil, also known as mongongo oil, is brimming with fortifying ingredients, such as calcium and zinc, as well as the fatty acids and proteins that are crucial for hair growth.

Star Product: Manketti Hair Oil

Considering this nut oil is the foundation of every single product in Charlotte’s line, if you’re going to try anything, it should probably be this. As a result, you can look forward to added shine, tamed frizz, and a seriously moisturized scalp.

CurlyWorld

The world fell in love with curly haircare brand DevaCurl after its launch nearly thirty years ago, and now, co-founder Lorraine Massey (who has also written two books: Curly Girl: The Handbook and Silver Hair: A Handbook) has launched another exciting line, which, let’s face it, will probably reach cult-status just as quickly. CurlyWorld includes natural hair cleansers, conditioners, treatments, and even a volumizing pick that promises to take your curly hair to its highest possible heights.

Star Product: Sham-Free Hair and Scalp Cleanser

This unique cooling cleanser leaves your curls and scalp feeling incredibly fresh, without stripping it of essential hydration.

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NaturAll

Like its name suggests, NaturAll is formulated with all-natural ingredients. When founder Muhga Eltigani realized how much her natural, textured hair thrived while using only food-grade ingredients that could be found in her kitchen, she decided to create a line of her own so that everyone could enjoy the same whole foods-based benefits. Now, NaturAll includes everything from natural edge controls to hydrating “bundles” especially formulated for 4C hair, including a hydrating shampoo, rinse-out and leave-in conditioner, and a twisting paste.

Star Product: Ice Cream Treatment Deep Conditioners

Available in six different formulas for all of your hair woes, these freshly-made deep conditioners (they come frozen!) are avocado-based and work to moisturize and detangle hair in a hurry.

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Alaffia

Founded by a Togolese and American couple in 2003, Alaffia exclusively uses ethically-sourced ingredients from Togo, such as shea butter, African black soap and coconut oil in their natural hair, skin and body care products. Olowo-n’djo Tchala and Prairie Rose Hyde have also founded a number of social enterprises using some of their proceeds, including providing sustainable incomes for women wanting to quit the sex trade industry, as well as working against poverty in Togolese communities.

Star Product: Curl Activating Leave-In Conditioner

Made with ethically-sourced, unrefined shea butter, this leave-in conditioner formulated without mineral oil, silicones or sulfates, hydrates and softens kinky and curly hair. Plus, five percent of sales goes towards the Alaffia Beautiful Arrival program, which helps provide maternal care to women of colour in marginalized communities.

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Design Essentials

Not only does Design Essentials carry specialized hair products for literally every hair texture, but they also offer formulas specifically targeted for use with wigs and extensions, including clip-ins and u-part weaves. Plus, their website just happens to be an extremely helpful haven of tips and tricks on how to effectively use their natural hair products effectively, breaking everything down into easy DIY steps.

Star Product: Almond & Avocado Moisturizing & Detangling Sulfate-Free Shampoo

This shampoo, which is made with almond oil (known for giving hair that impossible shine) and avocado, which deeply moisturizes and strengthens, will not only give you some of the cleanest hair you’ve ever, had but also some of the softest.

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Ooli Beauty

This one goes out to all the loc lovers. This brand has a full range of products that are specifically created to help create and maintain dreadlocks. Founded by Jessica Pritchett in 2018 after a successful journey and healthy relationship with her own locs, the line is complete with oils, gels and cleansers, all formulated to help you maintain your best protective hairstyle. For those that truly love their locs, this brand is a one-stop shop.

Star Product: Loc’d In Leave-In Conditioner

The perfect remedy for extremely dry, brittle and dehydrated locs, this leave-in conditioner contains black cumin oil to help prevent hair-thinning, while also promoting shine.

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The Yeezy Gap Hoodie Is Here and Canada Awaits (Impatiently)

After kicking off its brand partnership with a surprise drop in June, the Yeezy Gap collaboration is back with a new item that’s already making waves on the internet. The “Yeezy Gap Hoodie” has arrived, and though not yet available in Canada, it has piqued interest everywhere.

The drop came on September 29, after a mysterious countdown clock appeared on Gap’s landing page to get fans excited about the upcoming launch. The double-layered hoodie is made of 100 percent cotton and comes in purple, brown, light brown, red, black and a blue that is reminiscent of the collaboration’s first drop. The hoodies retail for $90 USD and also come in children’s sizes for $70 USD.

With its second drop, the collection is channelling the quintessential coziness of Kanye West’s brand. The first Yeezy Gap item, the “Round Jacket”, was a shiny, bright blue unisex puffer. Retailing for $200 USD, the jacket was undoubtedly a statement piece, while the newest Yeezy Gap apparel is distinctly more minimal, and therefore more wearable.

The Yeezy Gap hoodie hath arrived. pic.twitter.com/CKHSxCHM7X

— Vanessa Friedman (@VVFriedman) September 29, 2021

In fact, the design is so plain that some fans have pointed out similar-looking hoodies that are available for much cheaper on outlets like Amazon. A revolutionary design it is not, but will we cop it when we have the chance? Obviously. The ongoing hype around the brands’ collaboration has already solidified it as fashion history. After all, fans flocked to order a winter jacket in the summer, of all times.

To its credit, the Yeezy Gap Hoodie has some standout details that set it apart. For starters, it doesn’t have drawstrings or hood details — something you’d find on most sweatshirts. The hoodies are decidedly baggy, with dramatized drop-shoulders, a large front pocket and ribbed detailing on the cuffs and hem. Ye himself has also been seen sporting the hoodie, previously nicknamed “The Perfect Hoodie” by fans, since last year. The artist has made a habit of wearing his designs before they launch, with West spotted in the Round Jacket a few days before its release.

The addition of Yeezy designs has proved to be a blessing for Gap, helping to bring in a new, younger clientele and bump up sales, reports CNN. Though the collection is currently only available in the U.S., the brands reportedly have a 10-year partnership, meaning there will be *many* new Yeezy Gap pieces down the line. Be sure to watch this space for updates about Canadian shoppers.

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Kate Middleton was the True Bond Girl at the Premiere for No Time to Die

Leave it to Kate Middleton to show up at the No Time to Die premiere and steal the proverbial thunder from all its stars.

For release of the fifth James Bond film starring Daniel Craig, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge graced us with their presence on the red carpet. While the film stars came to slay — Ana de Armas and Léa Seydoux both sparkled in Louis Vuitton and Chopard, Daniel Craig donned a pink suede jacket, and Lashana Lynch wore a Vivienne Westwood ensemble — Kate Middleton outdid them all in a golden Jenny Packham gown. Clearly, this Royal has missed dressing up.

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As the Internet attempted to pick its jaws off the floor, an undercurrent of nostalgia was sweeping across Instagram in the form of Princess Diana. Social media sleuths quickly picked up on the similarities between Kate’s beaded dress and the Bruce Oldfield one the People’s Princess wore to the 1985 premiere of A View to a Kill, the fourteenth film in the James Bond franchise.

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While the looks share strikingly similar silhouettes and metallic sheens, the Duchess of Cambridge’s No Time to Die ensemble was classically Kate with its intricate beadwork and elegant cape.

While Kate remains mum on her inspiration (get it?), it is undeniable is that the James Bond premiere brought the glamour house down. In case you missed it, here are the other looks from the red carpet that wowed us.

1/10

Daniel Craig in Anderson & Sheppard

2/10

Ana de Armas in Louis Vuitton and Chopard

3/10

Léa Seydoux in Louis Vuitton and Chopard

4/10

Lashana Lynch in Vivienne Westwood

5/10

Billie Eilish in Gucci and Finneas

6/10

Phoebe Waller-Bridge in AZZARO

7/10

Naomie Harris in Michael Kors

8/10

Rami Malek in Prada

9/10

Ben Whishaw

10/10

Jeffrey Wright

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How to Support Indigenous Communities on National Day for Truth and Reconciliation

Content warning: This story discusses residential schools and violence against Indigenous people. Canada’s Residential School Survivors and Family Crisis Line is available 24 hours a day at 1-866-925-4419.

In 1973, a six-year-old Phyllis Webstad was preparing for her first day at St. Joseph’s Mission Residential School in British Columbia. In anticipation of the big day, her grandmother took to buy a new outfit. She picked out a bright, shiny orange shirt, which matched the excitement she felt to be going to school. But when she arrived at the Mission, she was stripped of her own clothes and her orange shirt was taken from her, never to be seen again.

Webstad, a Northern Secwpemc (Shuswap) from the Stswecem’c Xgat’tem First Nation, is one of many survivors of Canada’s residential school system. In 2013, she founded Orange Shirt Day, recognized on September 30, as a way of acknowledging the traumatic generational impact of residential schools on Indigenous communities. “The colour orange has always reminded me of that and how my feelings didn’t matter, how no one cared and how I felt like I was worth nothing,” Webstad writes on the Orange Shirt Day website. “All of us little children were crying and no one cared.”

Orange Shirt Day comes from the community and in particular, Phyllis Webstad. pic.twitter.com/Pz5YIfPfsp

— Lenard Monkman (@LenardMonkman1) September 29, 2021

In June 2021, the federal government announced that starting this year, September 30 will also mark the first annual National Day for Truth and Reconciliation. The new federal statutory holiday is meant to recognize the impacts of residential schools on Indigenous communities and families. Over the past few months, hundreds of remains were found on the grounds of former residential schools, where Indigenous children were forcibly sent between the 1870s and 1990s to be violently assimilated into colonial Canadian culture. It’s estimated that thousands of children died at these government-sponsored religious schools.

The Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC) was released in 2015, and has 94 calls to action — National Day for Truth and Reconciliation is a direct response to call to action 80, which called for a federal statutory day to commemorate the legacy of residential schools. There are plenty of ways that non-Indigenous people can support Indigenous communities on September 30, says Fallon Farinacci, a Red River Métis and healing advocate. For starters, educate yourself and discuss the history with the people in your own life. “[Non-Indigenous people] can review the calls to action. And for a simple step, maybe commit themselves to one that they can implement in their own life, or that they can bring to their workplace, or to their family,” she says.

“I was told a long time ago that the biggest change happens around the dinner table, the conversations that are had there are then brought out in the community. Having those moments of truth with your family is definitely key to standing in solidarity with Indigenous folks, and for each individual person to do something that day to further educate themselves on the truth.”

Farinacci adds that while this national recognition is a step in the right direction, there’s still work to do. Because the holiday is federal, there’s a disconnect with some provinces that haven’t recognized September 30 as a holiday. Farinacci wanted to spend the day with her kids and her community discussing this history, but because her son’s school board didn’t recognize the holiday, he doesn’t have the day off. Farinacci lives in Ontario, which is one of many provinces that are not recognizing September 30 as a statutory holiday, in addition to Alberta, Saskatchewan, Québec, New Brunswick and Yukon. Manitoba, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island will be formally recognizing September 30 as a statutory holiday, while British Columbia and Newfoundland and Labrador are commemorating the day, but not as a statutory holiday for all sectors.

“I have an Indigenous friend who had to take the day off work so that she could be with family. She shouldn’t have to take a holiday for it,” she adds. “I think that there’s a lot of work to be done to ensure that next year, it’s the day that it’s meant to actually be: a day to sit and reflect, and just a moment for families to come together.”

If you do have the day off and are non-Indigenous, use it to educate yourself, says Farinacci. There are plenty of gatherings, events and virtual workshops going on, and Orange Shirt Day has provided a growing list of events taking place across the country on September 30. The Gord Downie & Chanie Wenjack Fund, an Indigenous-led organization, has also provided a list of activities and educational resources to take part in on National Day for Truth and Reconciliation. Hold space for Indigenous voices, but don’t expect or ask Indigenous people to educate you on the history of residential schools, Farinacci adds.

Sporting an orange shirt is another simple way to stand in solidarity with Indigenous communities on September 30, but the shirts are currently in high demand and hard to find. If you can’t get an orange shirt from an Indigenous vendor, Indigenous advocates are asking that Canadians don’t resort to buying from large-scale retailers, who are now selling orange shirts.

DO NOT BUY ORANGE SHIRT DAY MERCHANDISE FROM RETAIL STORES.

DO NOT BUY FROM NON NATIVES.

Buy from actual Indigenous folks. I cannot stress this enough. Don’t question prices either.

— Bryson 🖖🏽 The Gaytive (@ArnallLabrador) September 26, 2021

“It’s really unfortunate that you have big box companies that are [mass producing and selling] the orange shirts,” says Farinacci. Indigenous advocate group Toronto Indigenous Harm Reduction states that by selling orange shirts, non-Indigenous corporations are missing the point of Orange Shirt Day, which is to support Indigenous people. If you can’t get your hands on an orange shirt, consider instead donating directly to an Indigenous cause, like the Indian Residential School Survivors Society, and wearing something second-hand.

On Instagram, Farinacci reached out to her network to compile a list of Indigenous-owned businesses (or reputable organizations who are donating all of their profits to Indigenous causes) that have shirts and other items available for purchase on September 30. They are listed below. Shirts are in high demand and may be sold out or take weeks to deliver. To buy orange shirts beyond September 30, Farinacci has an Instagram Stories highlight called “buy orange tees” where she’s linked businesses that continually sell orange shirts.

Indigenous Nations Apparel (Ships across Canada)

Toronto Indigenous Harm Reduction (Located in Toronto, Ontario)

Kanata Trade Co. (Ships across Canada)

Wolf Energy (Located in Niagara, Ontario)

Mino Ode Kwe Beadwork (Ships across Canada)

Kwe Kreations (Ships across Canada)

Icky’s Variety (Located in Six Nations, Ontario)

Toronto Council Fire (Located in Toronto, Ontario)

The Selkirk Friendship Centre (Located in Selkirk, Manitoba)

Wilfrid Laurier University is not Indigenous-owned but is working directly with Woodland Cultural Centre and donating one hundred percent of its profits.

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Wednesday, September 29, 2021

H.E.R. Just Wants the Music to Come First

When it comes to music, there doesn’t seem to be anything American R&B singer-songwriter H.E.R. (née Gabriella Sarmiento Wilson) can’t do. The 24-year-old artist has a series of hit EPs and a successful album (the much-anticipated Back of My Mind dropped earlier this year) to her name, has performed at the Super Bowl and has already won four Grammys and an Oscar.

But when it came to performing a full-length concert with an actual audience for the first time in about a year and half, how did she feel? “Nervous. I was so nervous,” she says, her laugh echoing out over the video chat. When we connect, it’s the day after H.E.R. had just performed two nights at the Hollywood Bowl alongside the Los Angeles Philharmonic, showing off her talents with rearranged versions of some of her greatest hits. “I was excited leading up to it, but then it hit me that it had been such a long time. I was like, ‘Am I going to have the stamina? Am I going to be on point?’ But then I settled in and I was very present and the nerves just went away,” she says. “The energy was insane — irreplaceable, honestly. It was an amazing experience.”

Next for H.E.R. is a project with the First Up with RBCxMusic program, which is dedicated to helping up-and-coming Canadian artists build a platform through exposure, funding, education and mentorship opportunities. As part of a new campaign called the First. Love., H.E.R. — an acronym for “Having Everything Revealed” — is advocating for something that has long been close to her heart: letting the music speak for itself regardless of the way an artist looks or identifies.

Ahead of the campaign launch, FASHION caught up with H.E.R. to discuss the message, her advice for young artists and her iconic Prince look.

Let’s start with the First. Love. campaign. Why did you want to be involved?

One of the things that is important to me as an artist is to encourage and inspire. When I was younger, there were artists and people who I looked up to who kind of extended themselves to me and helped me develop, grow and lended that support. It’s important for me do that for other artists. I’m noticing my impact — you don’t realize it when you’re in it, but being the first Black woman to collaborate with Fender Guitars, for example. I’ve realized that one of my purposes is to help other people, include other people, and let them know that, you know, I’ve been there before. This is the perfect opportunity to do that. [My career] didn’t happen just like that. But I think we forget that, because we see the product, we see the result of the hard work. We don’t see the blood, sweat, tears, the hours, the doubts and all of that stuff. So I’m here with RBC to be there to support these artists through that process, and that is a rare thing. The fact that I could even be that for somebody else is mind-blowing to me. I feel honoured.

What’s something you tell young artists about all the unseen hard work they have ahead of them?

One thing is patience. I got signed to RCA when I was 14 years old. Vol. 1 came out when I was 19. I took those years to develop, to learn my craft, to learn the music business — because it’s not just music. It’s called the music business for a reason. I was a student of the game and really [spent time] putting in my 10,000 hours. Because of social media, sometimes we think that things are going to happen fast, like “I’m going to make it big the second I get signed.” That’s not always the case. There are going to be lows, there are going to be highs. You have to trust the process, stick to your guns and make sure you stay true to you. You also have to make sure you’re doing right by people, and at the same time, make sure they’re doing right by you. There are all these little details that people don’t understand because we just see the lights and the action. But it’s these little things that matter.

Earlier in your career you often hid your face. How has this idea played a part in your work?

Oh gosh. We get so caught up in, you know, the likes, the looks, the gossip, the drama — all these things around music that we forget about the art. But that’s what matters the most to me. My dad used to say, “If you don’t love it without the money, you’re not going to love it with the money.” You’re not always going to be happy with where you are. There are going to be [thoughts] like, “Am I in the right place? Should I quit?” But you have to keep going. For me, [I had to] focus on the music and make sure that was the goal. You want to know who I am? They say the eyes are the window to the soul, but my music is the window to my soul. We keep it about the art and about working so hard for what we love.

H.E.R., a.k.a. Gabriella Sarmiento Wilson. Photography courtesy of RBCxMusic

You’re so young have already been recognized by the Grammys and even the Oscars. What have these accolades meant to you?

Man, it’s crazy. I always say, “It’s confirmation, not validation.” Sometimes we get caught up in the trophies and prizes — which are amazing and I’m so thankful — but they don’t define you as an artist. They can be career-defining, but they don’t define you and your art, which is something I want to make clear. All those things will come if you trust yourself and, like I said, become a student of the game and work hard. People will try to discredit it and say that it’s undeserving, but sometimes it’s good to be selfish and say, “I deserve this” and pat yourself on the back. Be proud of yourself and your journey.

How would you describe your personal style and the way it plays a role in how you present your work to the public?

The glasses kind of started off as a way to be mysterious — I didn’t want to hide, but earlier on, I wore these dark glasses on a very dim stage so that people couldn’t really see me. I wanted them to hear my music. Now, that’s become part of who I am and very much a part of my style. I love working with my stylist so much because we started working on the [looks] from the inside out, and that’s how it should be. It shouldn’t be about putting on the best, most expensive designer brands. My style is about putting things together that make me feel good, feel ready and really represent who you are as a person. So if I want to feel sensual or sexy and wear a dress, then I’ll do that. If I want to be chilling and just want to put on some sweat pants, then that’s what I’m doing. I’m not always going to be put together, the hair’s not always going to be laid — okay maybe it actually will be — but other than that…[laughs], style is when you can truly be you and lock into that.

I read that your Oscars look was an homage to Prince. What’s the story behind that?

What’s crazy is that I had this picture [of Prince] saved on my phone for so many years — way before I knew the Oscars would ever even be in the conversation. I had tried to recreate [his look in the photo] a few times, but it never worked out. Then, ahead of the Oscars, my stylist brought it back and I was like, “Oh my gosh, wait. This is the look.” And my stylist said, “You know, that’s the look Prince won his Oscar in.” I had forgotten about that detail. It was just a full circle moment. Peter Dundas, who designed my look, did an amazing job. And then to win and be on that stage…I felt like a princess.

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Why Everyone on Social Media Is Washing Their Hair with Rice Water

While scrolling Insta or TikTok lately, you may have noticed a flood of videos of women dousing their hair in gloopy-looking water before showing off shampoo-commercial-style rolling, glossy waves. Turns out, that murky-looking substance is rice water, and the centre of the latest viral beauty trend which influencers and celebs alike are claiming gives them ad-worthy hair.

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Online hair influencers such as Anisa Sojka, Bhawana Mehra and Audrey Victoria are driving the rice water hair mask trend, which Sojka, who also sells her hair bows, scrunchies and other accessories highly sought-after by her 530,000 followers, even claimed caused her hair to grow faster. Even Cardi B says she sprays her freshly washed hair with a rice water tonic she makes herself by soaking rice outdoors for 24 hours. The supposed secret to Kim Kardashian’s extra-long strands? According to Kourtney Kardashian’s lifestyle site Poosh, it’s a DIY rice water rinse she says Kim uses on the regular for extra length and thickness.

Soaking and rinsing rice to remove excess starch, and also putting that vitamin and mineral-rich water to use as a beauty treatment, especially on the skin and hair, has been documented in Japan for thousands of years. “Water either from cooking rice or from soaking rice contains starch, amino acids, B vitamins, vitamin E, minerals and antioxidants, which all help with hair regrowth, in theory,” says Dr. Anastasia Therianou, a dermatologist who specializes in hair disorders and is based out of London, England. While Dr. Therianou notes there is no scientific evidence that shows if and how rice water treatments help hair growth, she says your hair will likely benefit from being smoother and shinier, especially if your strands are particularly damaged.

How to make your own rice water

If you’re game for a little DIY, you can prepare your own rice water. According to Poosh, start by rinsing one cup of uncooked organic rice, then place the washed rice in a large bowl and pour one to one and a half cups of water over it. Let it sit covered at room temperature for up to 24 hours. Next, stir up the cloudy mixture, and drain the rice while saving the rice water in a separate bowl. You can now use it to pour over your hair after shampooing and conditioning. Let is sit on your hair for twenty minutes to an hour and rinse out. Dr. Therianou suggests only applying the water to your hair, versus all-over your scalp, no more than once a week, since it can be drying if overused. “I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone with specific hair loss or shedding,” adds Dr. Therianou. She also suggests those with a particularly oily or dry scalp should likely steer clear of rice water as well, and stick to medically-recommended treatments.

If you’re looking for ready-made rice water products that are especially formulated for hair, there are plenty of options. For one, these new, easy-to-use rice water shampoo and conditioner bars from Kitsch are designed for weak and brittle hair. For those with curls, Briogeo’s weekly hair mask uses rice amino acids to specifically help seal the curly hair cuticle for more definition and a more even curl pattern. Once out of the shower, you can spray on the benefits like Cardi B, with Shea Moisture’s Purple Rice Water styling spray that gives hair extra moisture and manageability, and is especially good for colour-treated hair.

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16 Pairs of Mary Janes to Wear This Fall

With the comeback of ballet flats and loafers, it’s only fitting that Mary Janes are the next “it” shoe of the season. Also known as bar shoes or doll shoes, the classic footwear was initially designed for children, but it soon became popular among women of many generations. Nowadays the shoes come in a variety of styles, from easygoing flats, platform pumps to classic low heels.

In recent years, these shoes have shown up on runways, streets and celebrities. Notably, Zoë Kravitz is often spotted on the streets of Brooklyn in her favourite The Row Ava flats, paired with airy babydoll dresses, relaxed trousers or pleated mini skirts. Although these shoes are commonly associated with women’s fashion, they have been embraced by everyone, with the likes of Harry Styles and Tyler the Creator donning them on red carpets and special events.

Whether they’re square toe, T-bar, or multi-strap, here are 16 pairs of Mary Janes that will make you want to skip down the streets.